avoid the imputation of acting indelicately and contrary to cuftom, has made fuch an impreffion on them, that our Author was told of a woman who being accidentally furprized when bathing, fhewed her whole perfon, except her face, to hide which, the employed all her folicitude.

The Perfians are as much governed as any other nation, by outward appearances; hence our factors in the fouth of Perfia, have, from motives of policy, carried this affair much farther than thofe who came from the cold regions of Ruffia; they have had their gold caalleans, rich fathes, running foot-men, led horfes, &c. Their dress was Perfian, except the wig and hat, and their garments were lined with fables. Shah Sultan Huffein gave them a noble palace and fine gardens; and at a public entertainment made for that Prince, the factors once spread the ground with fcarlet cloth, for him to walk on from the royal palace to their own, and afterwards gave it to the foldiers. This conduct was political among fo oftentatious a people as the Perfians, and doubtless had good effects: but the invafion of the Afghans prevented the continuance of it. Mr. Elton, however, thought it became the rank he bore in the Shah's service, to have four running foot-men to attend him; his Adjutant was finely mounted, and carried a light fowling piece at the head of the cavalcade, and the rear was brought up by his Caallean-bearer on horfeback, who carried a leathern pannier filled with outward garments, provifions and the like.

Ghilan is covered on one fide, by a range of mountains nearly in the form of a crefcent. What greatly adds to its beauty is the abundance of timber and other wood, and the romantic scenes it every where affords. At the foot of the mountains to the eastward near the bay, is a hot bath much efteemed for its medicinal virtues; the water of which is of a yellowish colour. All the paffes into Ghilan are very difficult, and hence the Kings of Perfia, have hardly ever been able to keep the inhabitants of the fouthern coast of the Cafpin Sea in fubjection.

Refhd, the metropolis of Ghilan, was about 20 years before our Author's being there, furrounded by a thick wood, which rendered it extremely unwholfome: but the Ruffians no fooner poffeffed this part of the province, than they cleared the ground for near 15 miles to the fouthward, and a profpect is now opened that is only bounded by the mountains whose tops rife fo high, that they are generally covered with fnow throughout the whole year. The air of this province, tho' admirable adapted to the cultivation of raw filk, and rice, of which there are greater plenty here than in any other part of Perfia, is far from being healthy, for the numerous marshes occafioned by the overflowing of the Cafpin Sea, the fields of rice often laid under water, and the vicinity of the mountains covered with wood, contribute to hurt the air, especially when the heat of the fun is violent and the exhalations ftrong. There are here innumerable fwarms of frogs, gnats,

and

and fpiders; the extraordinary moisture of the earth breeds infects even in their houses, and the air is fo productive of ruft, that it is difficult to preferve even the work of a watch. The inhabitants observe, that women, mules and poultry enjoy health, when all other animals pine away with ficknefs; whence it may be inferred that their confinement contributes to their prefervation. In the year 1741, fuch an incredible quantity of fnow fell, that the inhabitants at Refd had for fome days no communication with each other, but from the house tops, which are, however, not very lofty. They even affured our Author, that in fome places the fnow was feven yards deep.

The people here enjoy a long fpring, during which their lawns and meadows are ftrewed with flowers, and the bufhes with roses, and honeyfuckles. The foil, which is exceeding fertile, produces fome hemp and hops, and almoft every kind of fruit without culture, for befides pomegranates, peaches, oranges, and lemons, here are abundance of grapes, the vines fupporting themselves on the trees, and growing wild in the mountains; fo that a great part of the province is a perfect paradife, notwithstanding the many inconveniences that attend it. However, their grapes, for want of cultivation, are not the most excellent, nor will they make tolerable wine without a mixture of raifins from the fouthern parts of the Empire; but these fermented together, produce very good wine. Their other fruits are reckoned unwholfome, efpecially to foreigners,

and

pre

and in particular the peaches and figs, partake much of the pernicious moisture that dominates in the lower parts of the province. Ghilan is alfo remarkable for producing great quantities of box, of which camels are extremely fond, tho' it is immediate death if they eat of it; for which reason there are few or no camels brought into the province; their carravans confifting of horses, mules, and cows that carry burthens like other animals.

The Author Jets out on his fecond Journey from Langarood to Aftrabad. A Defcription of the Province of Mazanderan, with the Cities of Amul and Balfrufh. He is entertained at the Seat of Mahommed Khan. Afhort Description of the Cauferway built by Shah Abas, and of the famous Palace of Afhreff. Pyramids of human Heads at the enterance of Aftrabad. Cruelties exercifed on the Rebels, and the Manner of executing Malefactors in Perfia.

N the firft of May in the evening, Mr. Hanway fet out for Aftrabad. Befides Mr. Loftus, Mr. Elton's interpreter, who had been with him in the camp; he alfo took Matteufe the old Armenian, who was with him when the rebellion broke out. There were fix perfons in company, well armed, and Mahommed Khan had promised to furnish them with a convoy of fifty

foldiers

foldiers if neceffary; for fome of the inhabitants of Mazanderan as well as Aftrabed, having being in the rebellion, and knowing that part of the money our Author was to receive, would be levied on their relations, there was reason to apprehend they would obftruct their journey, if they had a favourable opportunity of doing it.

The first evening they were benighted and loft in a wood, they had fucceffively procured feveral guides; but they all ran away, from the fear of being ufed ill. In this perplexity they advanced towards a houfe, where they faw a light, but found the entrance barricaded with trees. In vain did they ufe intreaties to perfuade the matter of it to conduct them to Rudizar; thefe being ineffenual, they broke into the house, and tying a rope to one of his arms, compelled him to conduct them. Unwarrantable as this condu&t may appear, it was agreeable to the practice of Perfia, and now femed abfolutely neceffary; but having conducted them to Radizar, he was paid handfomely for his trouble, and fuffered to return home.

The next day they entered the province of Mazanderan, the weather being extremely delightful. On the fourth the horses and mules. being at pafture, were vifited by a wolf of a very extraordinary fize; but being driven off by a guard fet for fuch purposes, the animal contented himself with killing a cow. In the morning they set out early, and coming up with a detachment of 50 foldiers, the commander courteously offered his fervice to guard them. VOL. XIV. U

Mr.