tains cross the river, and through which it has worked for itself a deep channel. This cañon is known to all the trappers, and is said to extend from two to three hundred miles, throughout which distance it is only passable in two or three places. As he progressed, Alarchon made diligent inquiries about the country and people. In reply he was told that the river ran much further up into the land than he had yet come; but his informers did not know its head, as it was still very far in the interior. He learned also that many

other streams fell into it.
the natives cultivating maize.
of maize and loaves of mezquique.* Neither wheat nor
beans were known to them. To ascertain this fact,
our traveller took with him these articles, which he
showed the Indians, and at which "they expressed
much wonder." He found cotton growing, but nowhere
saw any fabrics made of it; whence he naturally was
led to believe that they knew not the art of spinning
and weaving. The natives told him that there were
twenty-three different languages spoken along the
river.

As far as he went, he found
They brought him cakes

It is a singular fact, that although Francisco de Ulloa explored the Gulf of California in 1539, and Alarchon in 1542, at which time the latter discovered and passed up the Colorado, the fact that California had been ascertained to be a peninsula came to be forgotten, and it was regarded as an island until some time

I imagine the mezquique to be flour made of the mezquit bean, which is now used by the California Indians, as well as by the Coco-Maricopas and Pimos of the Gila.

between the years 1698 and 1701. This rediscovery was made by Fathers Kino and Sedlemayer, two of the earliest and most distinguished of the Jesuit missionaries, who in consequence were able to open a communication by land with the missions of Lower California, which had already been established.* Kino, next to Alarchon, followed up the Colorado beyond its confluence with the Gila; and was the first to preach the Gospel among the Indians, who were then very numerous in this region. He made five separate journeys to the Gila and Colorado Rivers between the years 1694 and 1706; and on one occasion intended to cross over to Monterey, in Upper California, from which he was only prevented by an accident. He established a mission near the mouth of the Colorado and one at the mouth of the Gila. The former did not last many years. The latter was in existence as late as 1776, when Fathers Pedro Font and Garces came with a large party from Sonora to replenish the missions of California, but chiefly that at Monterey.† Fathers Garces and Eirarch remained at the Colorado, and Font proceeded to the coast. Garces afterwards made extensive journeys

*This question seems to have awakened much interest among the geographers of the period. Captain Mange accompanied Father Kino in the journey referred to, and his letter announcing the discovery, with great detail, is given in Alegro's Hist. de la Comp. de Jesus en Nueva España. Vol. III.

I obtained in Monterey, by the kindness of Dr. A. Randall, a copy of the manuscript journal of Father Pedro Font, together with the map which illustrates both the journeys of Font and Garces. The existence of this map was not before known, and it may be regarded as of great value.

up the Colorado, and established a mission among the Moquis. He was soon after killed by the Indians, and the Colorado Mission destroyed.

NOTE.-I have several times spoken of the state of the thermometer. At all times it was placed beneath the shade of a tree, and hanging against it. In no case was it hung in the tent, where the heat was much greater. Our barometers had all been broken before reaching the Colorado, except mine, an aneroid, which I gave to Lieutenant Whipple, in order that his records might be kept complete. So with my thermometer. It was lost, and I was afterwards obliged to refer to Lieutenant Whipple's. Before leaving Fort Yuma, Dr. J. L. Milhau, surgeon of the post, at my request, kindly furnished me with a copy of the meteorological register kept at the Fort for the month previous to my departure, from which I have made the annexed extract:

STATE OF THE THERMOMETER (Fahrenheit) at Fort Yuma, at the junction of the Colorado and Gila Rivers, from May 20th to June 16th. Lat. 32°, 42, 09“. Long. W. from Greenwich, 117°, 37′, 09“.

In this case the thermometer was suspended beneath a thick bower of bushes, which effectually shut out the sun at all times, while there was a free circulation of air around. The Fort stands on an isolated rock about eighty feet above the plain.

CHAPTER XXIX.

FORT YUMA TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES.

Leave Fort Yuma-Absence of grass along the Gila-Petahaya or Giant Cereus-Gila trout-Meet the surveying party-Inscribed rocks-Excessive heat-Night marches-Wagons found-How caches are madeParticulars of the murder of Mr. Oatman and his wife-Basin of the Gila-More sculptured rocks-Cross the Jornada-Great bend of the river-Another desert-Toilsome march-Reach the Coco-Maricopa villages.

June 17th. Major Heintzelman told me this morning that, from the peculiar barking of the dogs during the night, he believed the Indians had been near the fort. Soon after one of the herdsmen came in, and reported that he had discovered many Indian foot-prints around the base of the hill. The ferrymen, who slept near, were aroused at the same time, and saw from the hill two fires in opposite directions, two or three miles distant, near the banks of the Colorado. They were doubtless intended for signals. A party of soldiers was sent out to reconnoitre in the bottom around the fort; and subsequently a detachment of fifteen, under command of Lieutenant Hendershott, was dispatched

on a scout.

Our wagons now being completed and every thing in readiness, we bade farewell to our excellent friends,

and at four o'clock, P. M., crossed the river to our camp on the opposite shore, accompanied by Major Heintzelman. The mercury at noon to-day stood at 100° Fahrenheit.

June 18th. We took our departure at five o'clock in the morning. As Lieutenant Whipple was actively employed in completing the survey of the Gila, my own party was reduced to Dr. Webb, Messrs. G. Thurber, H. C. Pratt, and M. Seaton, which last was returning to rejoin his party on the Rio Grande. We had also, of course, the necessary attendants in servants, cooks, arrieros, and herders; and were accompanied by Lieutenant Paige, with fifteen soldiers. Lieutenant Whipple retained the remaining men of Colonel Craig's command, and twelve of those furnished by Major Heintzelman. Our provisions, baggage, and camp equipage were carried partly in wagons and partly on pack-mules.

We took the travelled road, which we followed for two or three hours along the bottom-land on the south bank of the Gila, and then turned off and followed the trail of Lieutenant Whipple, which led to the river. After pursuing this route a couple of miles, we got entangled in so dense an undergrowth, interspersed with little hillocks and dead trees, that our progress was completely stopped. Fearing that our wagons would be broken if we proceeded, we turned back and attempted to regain the road; but in this direction the same impediments presented themselves. Being thus brought to a stand, I sent men out to find the river, as we had already been so long tugging through the bottom that our mules showed much