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CHAPTER XXVIII.

FORT YUMA AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY.

Crossing of the Colorado continued-Description of Fort Yuma-The Colorado and Gila rivers-The adjacent country-Rich alluvial bottomsFacility of irrigation-Ruins of the old Spanish Missions-Difficulty of supplying Fort Yuma-Plan for surveying the head waters of the Gulf of California-Frustrated by Colonel Graham-Discovery of the Colorado in 1540 by Alarchon-Later voyages-Difficulties in navigating the Colorado-Attempt of a steamer to ascend the river—Its velocity and height-Fort Defiance-Massacre of Dr. Langdon and his party by the Yumas-Indians of the Colorado-Early tribes not identified-The Yumas-Cocopas-Mohavis-Extent of Alarchon's voyage in 1542— Fathers Kino, Font, and Garces..

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CHAPTER XXIX.

FORT YUMA TO THE COCO-MARICOPA VILLAGES.

Leave Fort Yuma-Absence of grass along the Gila-Petahaya or Giant Cereus-Gila trout-Meet the surveying party-Inscribed rocks-Excessive heat-Night marches-Wagons found-How caches are madeParticulars of the murder of Mr. Oatman and his wife-Basin of the Gila-More sculptured rocks-Cross the Jornada-Great bend of the river-Another desert-Toilsome march-Reach the Coco-Maricopa villages. .

185

CHAPTER XXX.

THE COCO-MARICOPA AND THE PIMO INDIANS.

Visit from the Coco-Maricopa Indians-Camp removed to the banks of the Gila-The river dry, and no grass-War party-Return to our first camp-Traffic with these Indians-Farther accounts of the Oatman family-Francisco, the Maricopa interpreter-Feeding the tribe-Visit from the Pimos--Religious notions of these tribes-Their manners and customs-Agriculture-Art of spinning and weaving--Manufactures of cotton-Pottery-Basket-work-Dress-Their attempts at collecting zoological specimens-Villages-Houses and mode of building-Store houses-Horses and cattle.

213

CHAPTER XXXI.

AT THE COCO-MARICOPA AND PIMO VILLAGES.

Journey to the river Salinas-Its rich bottom-lands-Large stream--Pimo Indians-Ruined buildings-Mounds-Broken pottery-Traces of irrigating canals-Ancient population probably large-Return towards the Pimo villages-Are taken for Apaches-Arrival at camp-Arrival of Lieutenant Whipple-Survey of the Gila completed-Trade reopened with the Coco-Maricopas-Presents-Tribe of Cawenas-Remove to the Pimo villages-Cola Azul and the Pimos-Traffic with them-Conference-Giving presents-Arrival of Mexican traders— Return of Lieutenant Paige with the escort-Leave the villages.

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239

CHAPTER XXXIL

INDIANS OF THE GILA, AND THE CASAS GRANDES.

History of the Coco-Maricopas and Pimos-Origin of their semi-civilization -Difference of languages-Their number-Physical peculiarities— Deserving the attention of Christians and philanthropists-Early accounts of these Indians-First described by Father Kino in 1697Sedelmayer's visit to them in 1744-Father Font's in 1775-Visit to the Casas Grandes of the Gila-Description of these ruins-Evidences of a former large population-Irrigating canals-Broken pottery-Father Font's description of these buildings-Singular error in relation to their dimensions-Kino and Mangi's visit to them in 1694-Notion of the Aztec origin of these buildings not well founded-Excessive heat. . 261

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CHAPTER XXXIII.

CASAS GRANDES TO SANTA CRUZ.

Leave the Gila-Terrific storm on the desert-Encounter a party of Amerieans at midnight-Stopped by the darkness-Unpleasant situation— Pack mules and cattle missing-Picacho mountain-Vegetation of the desert-Second night's march-Arrival at Tucson-General BlancoArrival of Mexican troops-Campaign against the Apaches-Meet Mr. Coons with 14,000 sheep-His disasters-Visit from General Blanco

and his officers-Repairs on wagons-Tucson and its valley-Meteorite San Xavier del Bac-Beautiful church-Spanish and Anglo-Saxon colonization-Incessant rains-Presidio of Tubac-Meet Inez Gonzales the captive girl-Her sad fate-Uncertainty of irrigated lands-California emigrants-Calabasa-Picturesque valley-Tumacacori-San Lazaro -More emigrants-Reach Santa Cruz..

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285

CHAPTER XXXIV.

SANTA CRUZ TO THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS.

Shoeing mules and repairing wagons at Santa Cruz-Standing guard-Sad fate of Inez Gonzales-Sickness of the town-Boldness of the Apaches and their constant inroads-Wretched state of the people-Leave Santa Cruz-Country assumes a new aspect-Rio San Pedro-Enter the mountains-Agua Prieta-Prepare for a fight-False alarm-Meet Colonel Garcia with Mexican troops--Enter Guadalupe Pass-Wagon upset-Description of the country-A better route suggested-Take the Janos road-More emigrants and their encounter with a bear-Two human bodies found-Open country-Reach Janos.

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CHAPTER XXXV.

JANOS TO CORRELITOS, AND VISIT TO CASAS GRANDES.

Janos, an old military post-Its decline-Aid a party of American emigrants-A Thomsonian doctor-Difficulty in fording the Casas Grandes river-Arrival at Correlitos-Smelting works-Unhealthiness of the people-Barranca Colorado-Visit to the town of Casas Grandes-Extensive ruins-Resemblance to those on the Gila-Fertile valley-The river and its tributaries-Modern town-Return to Correlitos..

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CHAPTER XXXVI.

CORRELITOS TO EL PASO.

Leave Correlitos-Visit the silver mines of Messrs. Flotte and ZuloagaAttempt of a peon to escape-Rio Santa Maria-Recent fight of Ameri

cans with the Apaches here-Broad open plains-Continued rain-The Salado-The Medanos or Sand Hills-Painful night's march-Samalayuca-Arrival at El Paso del Norte.

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366

SIXTH DIVISION.

EL PASO TO THE GULF OF MEXICO.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

INCIDENTS AT EL PASO DEL NORTE

Preparations for completing the Survey of the southern boundary of New Mexico Withdrawal of the military from El Paso-Importance of El Paso as a military post-Its business-Encroachments of the Apaches -Depredations of the Comanches-Suggestions for a better protection of the frontier-Colonel Langberg-Visit to Fort Fillmore-The Mesilla valley-Visit to the Organ mountains-Silver mines-Grand scenery-Return-Bracito and its battle-field-Preparations for leaving El Paso-Mail party attacked by the Comanches-Decide to go by way of Chihuahua-Laxity of the Mexican custom house-Departure of Lieutenant Whipple and party for the Gila-Organization of parties.

381

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

EL PASO TO CHIHUAHUA.

Departure from El Paso-Accident at the start-Farewell to friends-San Eleazario-Fording the Rio Grande-Wagon upset-Guadalupe-Ascend the table-land-Grassy plains, and open country-Ojo de Lucero -Laguna de los Patos-Country overflowed-Wagon mired-More accidents-Carrizal-Ojo Caliente-Rio Carmen-Encounter with the Apaches—A man killed—Animals lost-Ojo de Callejo-Mexican soldiers-Precautions to avoid a surprise-Laguna de Encinillas-El Penol-El Sauz-Rio Sacramento-Battlefield-Notice of the battle -Arrival at Chihuahua.

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CHAPTER XXXIX.

CHIHUAHUA AND ITS VICINITY.

Repairs on wagons-Mr. Flotte and his persecutions-The road infected by Comanche Indians-Guard hired-General Trias-Governor Cordero -A dinner and ball-Ladies of Chihuahua-Dinner to General Trias -Obtain important documents relating to the boundary-Description of Chihuahua-Causes of its decline-Its mines-The expulsion of the Spaniards-Labors of the Jesuits-Aqueduct―The Cathedral—Mine of Santa Eulalia-Casa de Moneda-Commerce-How carried on-Agricultural products-Alfalfa and its value-Heaps of scoria-Grazing lands-The plateau-Immense herds of cattle-Height of the table land-Climate-Diminutive dogs.

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424

CHAPTER XL.

CHIHUAHUA TO THE RIO FLORIDO.

Departure from Chihuahua-Additional escort-Mr. Flotte with his family join us-Bachimba-Santa Cruz-Grist mill—Smelting works-Saucillo-Attack of the Comanches-La Cruz-Las Garzas-Ford the Conchas-Santa Rosalia-Its defences erected against the Americans during the war-Ramada-Rio Florido-Guajuquilla-Fertile valleyMonument to our Lady of Guadalupe-Search for meteorites-Hacienda-Blanca-Wagon upset in an acequia-Hacienda de Concepcion-Curious mass of meteoric iron-Account of meteorites in the vicinityHacienda del Rio Florido.

442

CHAPTER XLL.

RIO FLORIDO TO PARRAS.

A male kidnapped-La Noria-Cerro Gordo-Enter the State of Durango -Another escort-Miserable condition of the Mexican soldiers--Recent battle here with the Comanches-La Zarca-Vast herds of cattle and horses-Scarcity of wood-Droves of horses-San Pedro del GalloRio Nasas-Fertile valley-Culture of cotton-Corn-fields without irrigation-La Noria de Pedrecina-Silver mines-Cuencame-Another

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