2

THE LATE ECLIPSE.

the shore, I kept away from the crowd, and succeeded in getting a seat in the cars to myself, and was completely wrapped up in my thoughts until we reached Richmond. Here a glass of port wine and a biscuit, and the fact of having to rouse up to change cars, improved my spirits; but still I was far below the chatting point.

Immediately in front of me were two newly married couples on their wedding tour. How attentive the men were, and how amply were they repaid by the sunny smiles of their young brides. They laughed and talked for many a mile, until at last the heads of the fair ones drooped and finally rested on the bosoms of those who were dearer than all the world to them. In the most romantic part of the White Mountains they left us, and I then thought what an intolerable bore it would be to the ladies if their husbands were always as attentive as they were during the honey moon.

About nine p.m. we arrived at Portland, and I put up at the Preeble House.

Sunday, 24th.-After a good night's rest and a capital breakfast, I walked up some of the principal streets and was perfectly astonished at the quietness of the town; not a single living creature was to be seen, and Pompeii or Herculaneum could not impress one more forcibly as a city of the dead, than did Portland at that hour. About a quarter before ten this stillness was broken by all the church bells, which rang for about five minutes, and all was again quiet. This, I suppose, was a warning for the lazy to finish their breakfast, and for the young ladies to commence putting on their bonnets,-a thing not to be done in a minute, as I have learned by experience the time it takes, when a lady tells you she is quite ready, and has only to put on her bonnet, before she makes her appearance.

At about ten minutes to ten all the bells again pealed forth and the streets, that were before deserted, were now full, people going in every direction,-it had much the appearance of an ant's nest when lift the stone that covers it; only instead of running off with you up their eggs they had Bibles and Prayer-books, and I could not help remarking that notwithstanding the warning the young ladies had had given to them, still their little bonnets were only half on their heads.

I had got plain sailing directions to reach the episcopal church, but not making sufficient allowance for leeway, at a corner of a street I encountered a strong Wesleyan tide, lost my landmarks, and was carried into one of their churches, and had to let go my anchor, which I did in a very comfortable berth, and heard an excellent sermon about the piety of the Pilgrim Fathers.

On my way back I saw on a board,—

"Spiritualist Meeting."
Morning Conference Free.

Afternoon and Evening Lectures.
Speaker, Miss Lizzy Doten.

So here every one could be accommodated, and had an opportunity of either worshipping God or

In the parlour of the Preeble House is this piece of information given to the public.

"No Gentleman will smoke in the Parlour." Now considering the trouble the proprietor has taken to make them comfortable with nice sofas and carpets, I think that the gentlemen are unkind, to say the least of it, and although I don't smoke, I had a great mind to call for a mild cigar, in order to appease the lamentations of the landlord.

25th.-Went by train to Boston, and on my arrival crossed the town to the New York terminus, and obtained a ticket for New York, -part of the way was to be performed by rail and part by steamboat. At about four p.m. the train left Boston, and at about six we arrived at Fall River, where the steamboat Metropolis was waiting to receive us. As the living freight of the cars was passing up the gangboard of the boat, I thought that it much resembled the entrance of the animals into the ark,-the huge boat looked very much like an ark,—and the people, some with trunks and some without, with different coloured woollens on their backs,-some looking sheepish; and many wolfish, were not, I think, very unlike the animals.

The moment I got on board I tried to find my berth, and as 101 was the number marked on my ticket, I went in quest of a state room with a corresponding number, and was much disappointed at not finding one. After supper I continued my search in the gentleman's cabin, which requires some description in order to fully understand what follows:-As the Metropolis is intended chiefly for passengers, the entire hold is converted into a cabin and the sides are fitted up with sleeping berths; there are four tiers, and the height of the cabin must be about sixteen feet. The best idea to give of it is to compare it to a cliff on the sea shore, with innumerable sea gulls' nests in the different holes, and when the gentlemen put out their heads with white nightcaps on, the resemblance was perfect. To my utter consternation I found that No. 101 was situated in the upper tier. I looked up at it, and although very easy of access to a sea gull, I had very serious apprehensions that in my crippled state I should never be able to accomplish such a feat of activity; however, I took a glass of brandy and water, thought of the days when going to the mast-head was a matter of course, and commenced the perilous ascent. I succeeded in getting into 101 and found it clean and comfortable,— clean, because it was not reasonable to suppose that any one had ever the temerity to risk his neck for a few hours' rest.

In order to compose myself for sleep, I began thinking over some of the many dreadful accidents that occur to these boats, and commenced calculating the chances of being either burnt, boiled, or drowned; and as the chances were considerably in favour of being comfortably drowned, I fell asleep. A fearful shriek from the steam whistle, as the boat was going alongside a wharf, awoke me from my slumbers; and trying to gain the sitting position, I dashed my head against a beam, and in my confused state thought the boat was blown up, and I somewhere between the earth and moon.

At daylight I put my head out of my nest, and from my giddy neight beheld my boots no bigger apparently than those belonging to General Tom Thumb. I commenced my descent, making use of my feet in the same way that a parrot does its claws, by clinging on to the sides of those berths that were beneath me, and succeeded in reaching the deck in safety, and thankful that I had not put my toe into the mouth of one of the occupants of the nests below me.

As my bag with shaving traps was only represented by a brass cheque, and I was without the slightest chance of seeing it before I arrived at New York, I went forward to the barber's shop and wash room, which was already filled with male passengers, washing, shaving, and "stimulating," for there was a great display of bottles, and those who wanted an excuse for taking a dram, found it in the motion of the ship. My turn came to occupy the chair, and I was shaved by the black barber, who took as few liberties with my nose as is usual to expect on such occasions. When I reached the upper deck we were going alongside the wharf at New York, and I was very much pleased at the seamanlike way in which they secured the vessel.

As our party was to assemble at the Brevoort House, I put my traps into a cab and drove there, and found it one of the nicest hotels out of England.

On Wednesday the 27th most of the expedition had arrived, and Professor Bache, who had the formation of the party, made the several members known to each other, and we drank success to the expedition in a glass of champagne.

On the morning of Thursday the 28th, after breakfasting on board the vessel that was to take us to Labrador, (the U.S. coast surveying steamer Bibb,) Professor Bache mustered all the party with their

The bar of an American steamboat abounds in great varieties of these stimulators, no less destructive in their effects on the human system than they are attractive by their engaging names. The game seems to be kept up on the shores of the Pacific as actively as on these of the Atlantic by the following extract from a California paper, which says on California drinks:

A new and appalling sort of beverage, says the Sierra Citizen, is " on hand and for sale" at Virginia city. With frightful significance it is termed by surviving drinkers "Washoe Brandy." In comparison," Minie Rifle" and "Chain Lightning" are mild and soothing beverages, the drinking of which after "Washoe" is said to greatly relieve the internal scald. An acquaintance arriving there somewhat exhausted, began to peer about for something to drink, and having been advised of a place where "good" liquor was to be had, incautiously swallowed thirty or forty drops of the Territorial Destructive. The effect was instantaneous and appalling. He first turned white, then red, then round and round, and finally horizontal; his countenance at first depicting the emotions and physiognomical phenomena of a wild cat with her tail in chancery; afterwards his face is said to have assumed that smiling expression peculiar to travellers found in everlasting sleep in the Valley of Sardis. The man recovered, however, and describes the internal sensation as that of a stomach full of galvanic batteries, yellow hornets, pepper sauce, and vitriol.-ED.

instruments, which consisted of Lieutenant Murray, U.S.N., Commander; Professor Stephen Alexander, Professor J. A. P. Barnard, Lieutenant E. D. Ashe, R.N., and Professor Smith, Astronomers; Professor C. S. Venakes, Oscar Lieber, and William Henry, Meteorological Department; T. C. Goodfellow and Henry Walker, Magnetic; Peter Duchochais and A. W. Thompson, Photographers; and Oscar Lieber, Geologist and Draughtsman.

About ten a.m..our little vessel steamed out of the harbour and passed through Hell Gate, inside Long Island; and our expedition was now fairly afloat. Boxes began to be stowed away, and the party to know each other; and we all felt quite at home although we were at sea. At an early hour we retired to our berths for the night. In the middle watch I heard the cry of "Man overboard," and went on deck. It was a calm night, with smooth water. The vessel was soon stopped and a boat lowered. The man was heard crying out astern, but as there was no lifebuoy he sank before the boat reached him. The young sailor who fell overboard had a brother in the same vessel, who naturally was in the greatest state of suspense while the boat was away, and when she returned without him, and the order "Go ahead" was given, it was truly distressing to witness the agony of the poor boy far worse than hearing the clay rattle on the coffin of a loved one, for in your sad moments you can return to the grave and weep in silence, but here, all traces are for ever gone,-the close affection of brotherhood snapped in a moment,-and the feelings crushed by the routine of the ship going on as if there never had been such a person on board.

We had light fair winds for the first two or three days, with tolerably smooth water; but not sufficiently so to prevent the Professors from feeling that most dreadful of all maladies-sea sickness.

Monday, 2nd.-Smooth water: all the party in good spirits. Eight p.m., rounded Scatarie Island, and stood in for the harbour of Sidney, and anchored close to the coal wharf.

3rd.-Found H.M.S. Cossack here, commanded by an old messmate (Moorman); and as our vessel had to take in coal, I went on shore to North Sidney with him, and had a talk of byegone days and of former messmates. Some had risen to the top of the profession, others were dead, and some worse than dead-they had turned out drunkards. Some of the most noble and gifted of our profession had fallen victims to that vice. I look upon it as a disease, and no more capable of being cured than cancer.

We completed coaling and started again that night about eleven p.m. Captain Murray had wisely contrived to charter a schooner with coal to go some 500 miles to the northward, on the Labrador coast, to meet us on our way back at a fishing station (Domino).

As I was charged with the astronomical arrangements for getting time, before starting I had the materials for a small wooden observatory cut out, so that I should have nothing to do when I arrived at our place of destination but to nail it together.

4th.-Strong winds and much sea. At eleven a.m. all hands as

sembled in the cabin to drink the "American Independence." I joined most cordially, being the only Britisher on board, and was glad to see so much enthusiasm, for without it no nation can be great.

5th.-Gale blowing from the N.W., and our little craft was scarcely making headway; there was a great sea on and we shipped a great deal of water. I was much pleased with the sea qualities of the Bibb. Set the fore trysail and kept away E.N.E. Noon, weather more moderate.

kept close to the several curiously forms, and vary A common form

6th.--Fresh breezes from the North. Labrador coast in sight. Set fore and aft sails. Showed our colours to the St. Lawrence, steamer, going to Quebec. In the afternoon passed the lighthouse on Point Amour. Several large icebergs in sight. Night fine and clear. 7th.-Beautiful weather. Passed Belle Isle and Labrador shore; patches of snow on the land and shaped icebergs in sight. They are of all sizes and in colour according to the light they are seen in. for the icebergs that are seen in these low latitudes, and that have weathered many gales of wind, is that of a decayed tooth, the centre part being filled with water; some look like Parian marble, whilst others are the colour of blue vitriol, and some are a beautiful sea green with purple streaks. Most of them have rents or cracks that run across them, and which are filled up with frozen water, and then these veins present beautiful colours as different lights fall upon them. As we got to the northward they increased in size and number. Nothing could be more dangerous to navigation than these icebergs; in a fog they cannot be seen the length of a ship, and have sharp projections beneath the water far more fatal to a ship than a rock, for alongside the iceberg there is deep water and the ship goes down before the boats can be lowered. One of the pilots told me that he was in a brig on the coast of Labrador that ran into an old decayed iceberg and the smooth water in the centre enabled them to lower their boats, and ultimately they were picked up by a schooner. fisherman from Sydney told me that he was in company with a fishing schooner that tried to pass between two icebergs, but struck against a projecting piece of ice beneath the water and went down immediately, the crew saving themselves by jumping overboard, and were picked up by the other schooner.

A

I have not the slightest doubt that many of the missing vessels have been lost on these islands of desolation.

We kept close in with the land and spoke a fishing-boat. There are several hundreds of fishermen that come every spring from Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, the States, and even from England, erect their huts on one of the thousand islands that are off the coast, leave their wives and families on shore to clean and dry the fish, whilst the men are out catching more. Small American and other schooners make a good thing of it by exchanging provisions for the green fish, and bartering for skins from the Indians.

The fishing ground extends up the coast as far as lat. 56°; beyond