become so numerous as to be able to support a settled minister of the gospel. No particular account, however, of their numbers can be obtained till the year 1764. From the census which was then taken, it appears that there were a hundred and five dwelling houses, a hundred and twenty-seven families, and six hundred and seventyseven souls; but it is remarkable, that though above five hundred Indians remained in the county, yet not one was left in Chatham.* From comparing the census of 1764 with that of 1800, it appears that the number of the inhabitants has doubled in thirty-eight years. That it has not increased more is owing to the frequent emigrations which have been made during this period. In the year 1774, Chatham had become so flourishing a town, that it employed twenty-seven vessels in the codfishery. Another census was taken in 1776, when there were found in Chatham a hundred and sixty-five families, and nine hundred and thirty souls. The town suffered greatly by the revolutionary war. Many of the men were captivated by the enemy, and died in prison ships. In the year 1783, four or five vessels only were left in the harbours; but the town was filled with widows, mourning the loss of their husbands and sons. With the return of peace, the fishery revived, the tears of the wretched were wiped away; and since that period the inhabitants have been increasing in wealth and population.† The names and succession of the pastors will conclude the description of Chatham. June 15th. 1720, the church was *There is not an Indian now in Chatham. † A traveller who visited Chatham in the year 1790, and who observed every object with an accurate eye, informs the publick, that forty vessels were then employed in the cod-fishery. It would appear therefore, at first view, that the number of vessels, as it is not more than twenty-five at present, has diminished during the past twelve years. The truth is, that the inhabitants of Chatham did not, in 1790, own forty fishermen ; but at that period, a number of vessels, which with their crews wholly belonged to other places, came into the harbour of Chatham, and the fish which they brought was cured on its shores. See Mass. Mag. Vol. 3. p. 74. was first gathered, and Rev. Joseph Lord ordained. He died June 6th. 1748. Rev. Stephen Emery was installed May 17th. 1749, and died May 24th. 1782. Rev. Thomas Roby was ordained October 22d. 1783, and dismissed at his request October 22d. 1795. The present pastor, Rev. Ephraim Briggs, was ordained July 20th. 1796. Seip, sepoese, sepoemese, wechekum. T. S. A DESCRIPTION AND HISTORY OF EASTHAM, IN THE ASTHAM is situated in latitude 41o. 51. N. and longitude 69°. 56. W. from Greenwich. tance from Boston, following the road, is ninety-four miles; from Plymouth, the capital of the Old Colony, fifty-two; and from Barnstable, the shire town, twentytwo. The distance from Boston, in a straight line, is sixty-eight miles. It is bounded on the east by the Atlantick ocean; on the north by Wellfleet; on the west by Barnstable bay; and on the south and south-east by Orleans; from which it is separated by a line beginning at Rock harbour river, and running by various courses to Boat meadow river; thence running up the middle of the river to its head; thence running southerly, through the centre of the meadow, to a swamp; thence through the swamp, and along Jeremiah's gutter, into the middle of Town cove; thence running down the centre of the cove to Stone island; and thence running an eastsouth-east course into the Atlantick ocean. The length of the township is six miles; and the breadth, from two miles to two and a half. In sailing from Race point south, the first opening into the beach, on the eastern side of the county of Barnstable, is found in Eastham. There is here a small harbour, called Nauset, or Stage harbour, the entrance of which is narrow and obstructed by a bar, on which are not more than eight feet of water at full sea. It is divided into two arms, one of which extends north, and the other south-west. The northern arm is shallow. A body of salt marsh, containing two hundred acres, lies in it, and 1 is is protected from the ocean by a narrow beach. The south-western arm, which is denominated Town cove. has fourteen feet in the deepest part, at high water, common tides. As it is completely secured against every wind, if a passage could be opened from it into the ocean, it would afford an excellent harbour; but this, it is conceived, is impossible, because if the channel was deepened by art, it would soon be choked up again with sand, driven into it by storms. A sandy flat, a mile wide, extends along the western shore, from Suet to the bounds of Wellfleet. It is left dry about three hours, and may easily be crossed by horses and carriages. Of consequence there can be no good harbour on this side of the township. There are however several creeks, which at high water admit small vessels into them. The first is Great meadow river, the mouth of which is situated south-west from the meeting house. East of it is a body of salt marsh. About a half of a mile south of Great meadow river is Boat meadow river, which runs from the south-east. Its entrance lies south-south-west from the meeting house, and is eight feet deep at high water. A body of salt marsh extends from the mouth of this river to within four rods of Town cove, leaving a narrow ridge for a road. The marsh is not more than fifteen rods from the swamp, which is the head of Jeremiah's gutter; and as the land is low between them, in very high tides, the sea flows across from the bay to the ocean, completely insulating the northern part of the county. About a half of a mile south of Boat meadow river is Rock harbour river; which will again be mentioned in the Description of Orleans. Beside these creeks there are three brooks which empty themselves into the bay. The first is Indian brook, which forms the boundary between Eastham and Wellfleet, and runs into the harbour of Silver springs. Three quarters of a mile south of Indian brook is Cook's brook, which is dry half the year. A mile south of Cook's brook is Snow's brook, which runs the greatest part of the year, but is very small. Grape swamp, a mile south of Snow's brook, sometimes discharges water into the bay. On the eastern side of the township, in the fertile tract, the road passes over a small stream, which contains fresh water at low tide. Jeremiah's gutter may also be called a brook, though it is very narrow, and not more than fourteen rods in length. As there is little room for these brooks to run, they are necessarily formed on a minute scale. Fresh ponds are not numerous in Eastham, there being eight only. The most remarkable are Great pond and Long pond. Great pond is a quarter of a mile from the western shore. A communication was opened between it and the bay, for the purpose of suffering alewives to pass into it it soon closed. A narrow neck, about forty feet wide, separates it from Long poud; the distance of which from Mill pond, connected with the northern arm of Nauset harbour, is not more than a furlong. Here those who think it as easy to dig through the land, as to mark a line on a map, will be disposed to cut a canal from the ocean to the bay. As the ground is generally low, the labour would not be great; but unfortunately the canal, if made, would not long exist. A large proportion The soil of the township is various. is sandy and barren.* On the west side, a beach extends from the north line, near a half of a mile wide, till it comes to Great pond, where it stretches across the township almost to Town cove. This barren tract, which does not now contain a particle of vegetable mould, formerly produced wheat. The soil however was light. The sand in some places, lodging against the beach grass,† has been raised into hills fifty feet high, where twenty-five years ago no hills existed. In others it has filled up small vallies and swamps. Where a strong-rooted bush stood, the appearance is singular a mass of earth and sand adheres to it, resembling a small tower. In several places rocks, which 75. were * See Mass. Mag. Vol. 3. p. † See Description of the Eastern Coast of the County of Barnstable, P. 110. were formerly covered with soil, are disclosed; and being lashed by the sand, driven against them by the wind, look as if they were recently dug from a quarry. On the eastern side of the township, is a tract of about two hundred acres, equal, and by many supposed superiour, to any land in the county. Three cedar swamps on the west of it, three quarters of a mile in length, still guard it in a great measure against the irruptions of the sand. This good land will yield, with manure, thirty-five, and sometimes forty-five, bushels of Indian corn to an acre, and from twenty to thirty bushels of rye. North of the fertile tract on the eastern side of Eastham, the land is light and sandy; but, except for the distance of a half of a mile from the bounds of Wellfleet, is good for the lower part of the county. In this part of the township the greatest quantities of corn are grown. As very little of the land is good for grass, the raising of grain is the principal business to which the farmers attend. More corn is produced than the inhabitants consume; and above a thousand bushels, about half of which are sold in Wellfleet, are annually sent to market. Five and twenty years ago, three times this quantity was exported. The soil being free from stones, a plough passes through it speedily; and after the corn has come up, a small Cape horse, somewhat larger than a goat, will, with the assistance of two boys, easily hoe three or four acres in a day. Several farmers are accustomed to produce five hundred bushels of grain annually; and not long since, one of them raised eight hundred bushels, on sixty acres. This, however, was extraordinary, and may never be done again. In Eastham and in Orleans a little wheat and flax are raised, particularly on the best land. The former is subject to be blasted in both townships. There is sufficient salt hay; but very little English hay is cut in Eastham. Except a tract of oaks and pines, adjoining the south line of Wellfleet, and which is about a mile and a half wide, no wood is left in the township. The forests were imprudently cut down many years ago; and no obstacle being opposed to the fury of the wind, it has already covered with barrenness the large tract above described, and threatens |