Page images
PDF
EPUB

can afford me security from his power.' On my replying that the darkness of the night would afford him protection from these machinations, he said, 'I know what you mean, but you are quite mistaken. I have only told you of the mirror; but in some part of the building which we passed in coming away, he showed me what he called a great bell, and I heard sounds which came from it, and which went to it-sounds of laughter, and of anger, and of pain. There was a dreadful confusion of sounds, and as I listened, with wonder and affright, he said, 'This is my organ of hearing; this great bell is in communication with all other bells within the circle of hieroglyphics, by which every word spoken by those under my command is made audible to me.' Seeing me look surprised at him, he said, 'I have not yet told you all, for he practises his spells by hieroglyphics on walls and houses, and wields his power, like a detestable tyrant, as he is, over the minds of those whom he has enchanted, and who are the objects of his constant spite, within the circle of the hieroglyphics.' I asked him what these hieroglyphics were, and how he perceived them. He replied, 'Signs and symbols which you, in your ignorance of their true meaning, have taken for letters and words, and read, as you have thought, "Day and Martin's and Warren's blacking."' 'Oh! that is all nonsense!' 'They are only the mysterious characters which he traces to mark the boundary of his dominion, and by which he prevents all escape from his tremendous power. How have I toiled and laboured to get beyond the limit of his influence! Once I walked for three days and three nights, till I fell down under a wall, exhausted by fatigue, and dropped asleep; but on awakening I saw the dreadful signs before mine eyes, and I felt myself as completely under his infernal spells at the end as at the beginning of my journey.'"

It is probable that this gentleman had actually ascended to the top of St. Paul's, and that impressions there received, being afterwards renewed in his mind when in a state of vivid excitement, in a dream of ecstatic reverie, became so blended with the creations of fancy as to form one mysterious vision, in which the true and the imaginary were afterwards inseparable. In 1855 the fees for seeing St. Paul's completely were 4s. 4d. each person. In 1847 the mere twopences paid to see the forty monuments produced the four vergers the sum of £430 3s. 8d. These exorbitant fees originated in the "stairs'-foot money" started by Jennings, the carpenter, in 1707, as a fund for the injured during the building of the cathedral. The fees now for viewing the entire building amount to 2s. 6d.

The staff of the cathedral consists of the dean, the precentor, the chancellor, the treasurer, the five archdeacons of London, Middlesex, Essex, Colchester, and St. Albans, thirty major canons or prebendaries (four of whom are resident), twelve minor canons, and six vicars-choral, besides the choristers. One of the vicars-choral officiates as organist, and three of the minor canons hold the appointments of sub-dean, librarian, and succentor, or under-precentor.

Three of the most celebrated men connected with St. Paul's in the present century have been Milman, Sydney Smith, and Barham (the author of "Ingoldsby Legends"). Smith and Barham both died in 1845; Dean Milman followed in 1858.

Of Sydney Smith's connection with St. Paul's we have many interesting records. One of the first things Lord Grey said on entering Downing Street, to a relation who was with him, was, "Now I shall be able to do something for Sydney Smith," and shortly after he was appointed by the Premier to a prebendal stall at St. Paul's, in exchange for the one he held at Bristol.

Mr. Cockerell, the architect, and superintendent of St. Paul's Cathedral, in a letter printed in Lady Holland's "Memoir of Sydney Smith," describes the gesta of the witty canon; how his early communications with himself (Mr. C.) and all the officers of the chapter were extremely unpleasant; but when the canon had investigated the matter, and there had been "a little collision," nothing could be more candid and kind than his subsequent treatment. He examined the prices of all the materials used in the repairs of the cathedral-as Portland stone, putty, and white lead; every item was taxed, payments were examined, and nothing new could be undertaken without his survey and personal superintendence. He surveyed the pinnacles and heights of the sacred edifice; and once, when it was feared he might stick fast in a narrow opening of the western towers, he declared that "if there were six inches of space there would be room enough for him." The insurance of the magnificent cathedral, Mr. Cockerell tells us, engaged his early attention; and the fabric was speedily and effectually insured in some of the most substantial offices in London. Not satisfied with this security, he advised the introduction of the mains of the New River into the lower parts of the fabric, and cisterns and movable engines in the roof; and quite justifiable was his joke, that "he would reproduce the Deluge in our cathedral."

He had also the library heated by a stove, so as to be more comfortable to the studious; and the bindings of the books were repaired. Lastly, Mr.

Smith materially assisted the progress of a suit in Chancery, by the successful result of which a considerable addition was made to the fabric fund.

It is very gratifying to read these circumstantial records of the practical qualities of Mr. Sydney Smith, as applied to the preservation of our magnificent metropolitan cathedral.

Before we leave Mr. Smith we may record an odd story of Lady B. calling the vergers "virgins." She asked Mr. Smith, one day, if it was true that he walked down St. Paul's with three virgins holding silver pokers before him. He shook his head and looked very grave, and bade her come and see. "Some enemy of the Church," he said, "some Dissenter, had clearly been misleading her."

Let us recapitulate a few of the English poets who have made special allusions to St. Paul's in their writings. Denham says of the restoration of St. Paul's, began by Charles I. :—

"First salutes the place,

Crowned with that sacred pile, so vast, so high,
That whether 'tis a part of earth or sky
Uncertain seems, and may be thought a proud
Aspiring mountain or descending cloud.
Paul's, the late theme of such a muse, whose flight
Has bravely reached and soared above thy height,
Now shalt thou stand, though sword, or time, or fire,
Or zeal more fierce than they, thy fall conspire;
Secure, while thee the best of poets sings,
Preserved from ruin by the best of kings."

Byron, in the Tenth Canto of "Don Juan," treats St. Paul's contemptuously-sneering, as was his affectation, at everything, human or divine :

"A mighty mass of brick, and smoke, and shipping,
Dirty and dusky, but as wide as eye

Could reach, with here and there a sail just skipping
In sight, then lost amidst the forestry
Of masts; a wilderness of steeples peeping
On tiptoe through their sea-coal canopy;
A huge, dim cupola, like a foolscap crown
On a fool's head-and there is London Town!"

Among other English poets who have sung of St. Paul's, we must not forget Tom Hood, with his delightfully absurd ode, written on the cross, and full of most wise folly :

"The man that pays his pence and goes
Up to thy lofty cross, St. Paul's,
Looks over London's naked nose,
Women and men ;

The world is all beneath his ken;

He sits above the ball,

He seems on Mount Olympus' top,
Among the gods, by Jupiter! and lets drop
His eyes from the empyreal clouds
On mortal crowds.

"Seen from these skies,

How small those emmets in our eyes!

Some carry little sticks, and one
His eggs, to warm them in the sun;
Dear, what a hustle

And bustle!

And there's my aunt! I know her by her waist, So long and thin,

And so pinch'd in,

Just in the pismire taste.

"Oh, what are men! Beings so small That, should I fall,

Upon their little heads, I must Crush them by hundreds into dust. "And what is life and all its ages! There's seven stages!

Turnham Green! Chelsea! Putney! Fulham! Brentford and Kew!

And Tooting, too!

And, oh, what very little nags to pull 'em!
Yet each would seem a horse indeed,

If here at Paul's tip-top we'd got 'em!
Although, like Cinderella's breed,

They're mice at bottom.

Then let me not despise a horse,

Though he looks small from Paul's high cross;
Since he would be, as near the sky,
Fourteen hands high.

"What is this world with London in its lap?

Mogg's map.

The Thames that ebbs and flows in its broad channel? A tidy kennel!

The bridges stretching from its banks?

Stone planks.

Oh, me! Hence could I read an admonition
To mad Ambition !

But that he would not listen to my call,

Though I should stand upon the cross, and ball!"

We can hardly close our account of St. Paul's without referring to that most beautiful and touching of all London sights, the anniversary of the charity schools on the first Thursday in June. About 8,000 children are generally present, ranged in a vast amphitheatre under the dome. Blake, the true but unrecognised predecessor of Wordsworth, has written an exquisite little poem on the scene, and well it deserves it. Such nosegays of little rosy faces can be seen on no other day. Very grand and overwhelming are the beadles of St. Mary Axe and St. Margaret Moses on this tremendous morning, and no young ensign ever bore his colours prouder than do these good-natured dignitaries their maces, staves, and ponderous badges. In endless ranks pour in the children, clothed in all sorts of quaint dresses. Boys in the kneebreeches of Hogarth's school-days, bearing glit tering pewter badges on their coats; girls in blue and orange, with quaint little mob-caps white as snow, and long white gloves covering all their little arms. See, at a given signal of an extraordinary

fugleman, how they all rise; at another signal how they hustle down. Then at last, when the "Old Hundredth" begins, all the little voices unite as the blending of many waters. Such fresh, happy voices, singing with such innocent, heedful tenderness as would bring tears to the eyes of even stonyhearted old Malthus, bring to the most irreligious thoughts of Him who bade little children come to Him, and would not have them repulsed. Blake's poem begins

"'Twas on a Holy Thursday, their innocent faces clean, Came children walking two and two, in red and blue and green;

Grey-headed beadles walked before, with wands as white as

snow,

Till into the high dome of Paul's they like Thames' waters

flow.

The hum of multitudes was there, but multitudes of lambs, Thousands of little boys and girls, raising their innocent hands. "Now like a mighty wind they raise to heaven the voice of song,

Or like harmonious thunderings the seats of heaven among; Beneath them sit the aged men, wise guardians of the poor; Then cherish pity, lest you drive an angel from your door.”

In 1878-9 the grounds north, south, and east of the Cathedral were laid out as ornamental gardens, with grass-plats and gravel walks; the iron railing which encloses those three sides being at the same time lowered by reducing the height of the wall upon which it stands. These alterations laid bare some fragments of the foundations of the chapter-house, and of St. Faith's on the south of the nave, and also of "Paul's Cross" at the northeast corner of the churchyard. These improve

“Oh, what a multitude they seemed, those flowers of ments were effected solely at the cost of the
London town;
Corporation of London, and the grounds were
Seated in companies they were, with radiance all their own; thrown open to the public in September, 1879.

CHAPTER XXII.

ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD.

St. Paul's Churchyard and Literature-Queen Anne's Statue-Execution of a Jesuit in St. Paul's Churchyard-Miracle of the "Face in the Straw"-Wilkinson's Story-Newbery the Bookseller-Paul's Chain-“Cocker "-Chapter House of St. Paul's-St. Paul's Coffee HouseChild's Coffee House and the Clergy-Garrick's Club at the "Queen's Arms," and the Company there-"Sir Benjamin" Figgins-Johnson the Bookseller-Hunter and his Guests-Fuseli-Bonnycastle-Kinnaird-Musical Associations of the Churchyard-Jeremiah Clark and his Works-Handel at Meares' Shop-Young the Violin-maker-The "Castle" Concerts-An Old Advertisement-Wren at the "Goose and Gridiron "-St. Paul's School-Famous Paulines-Pepys visiting his Old School-Milton at St. Paul's.

THE shape of St. Paul's Churchyard has been compared to that of a bow and a string. The south side is the bow, the north the string. The booksellers overflowing from Fleet Street mustered strong here, till the Fire scared them off to Little Britain, from whence they regurgitated to the Row. At the sign of the "White Greyhound" the first editions of Shakespeare's "Venus and Adonis" and "The Rape of Lucrece," the first-fruits of a great harvest, were published by John Harrison. At the "Flower de Luce" and the "Crown" appeared the Merry Wives of Windsor; at the "Green Dragon," in the same locality, the Merchant of Venice; at the "Fox," Richard II.; at the "Angel," Richard III.; at the "Gun," Titus Andronicus; and at the "Red Bull," that masterpiece, King Lear. So that in this area near the Row the great poet must have paced with his first proofs in his doublet-pocket, wondering whether he should ever rival Spenser, or become immortal, like Chaucer. Here he must have come smiling over

Falstaff's perils, and here have walked with the ripened certainty of greatness and of fame stirring at his heart.

The ground-plot of the Cathedral is 2 acres 16 perches 70 feet. The western area of the churchyard marks the site of St. Gregory's Church. On the mean statue of Queen Anne a scurrilous epigram was once written by some ribald Jacobite, who spoke of the queen

"With her face to the brandy-shop and her back to the church."

The precinct wall of St. Paul's first ran from Ave Maria Lane eastward along Paternoster Row to the old Exchange, Cheapside, and then southwards to Carter Lane, at the end of which it turned to Ludgate Archway. In the reign of Edward II. the Dean and Chapter, finding the precinct a resort of thieves and courtesans, rebuilt and purified it. Within, at the north-west corner, stood the bishop's palace, beyond which, eastward, was Pardon Churchyard and Becket Chapel, rebuilt with a stately

cloister in the reign of Henry V. On the walls of with such advice as suited the condition of a dying this cloister, pulled down by the greedy Protector man. As soon as he had ascended the scaffold, Somerset (Edward VI.), was painted one of those which was much elevated in order that the people grim Dances of Death which Holbein at last carried might behold the spectacle, Garnet saluted the to perfection. The cloister was full of monuments, Recorder somewhat familiarly, who told him that and above was a library. In an enclosure east "it was expected from him that he should pubof this stood the College of Minor Canons; and licly deliver his real opinion respecting the conat Canon Alley, east, was a burial chapel called spiracy and treason; that it was now of no use the Charnel, from whence Somerset sent cart-loads to dissemble, as all was clearly and manifestly of bones to Finsbury Fields. East of Canon Alley proved; but that if, in the true spirit of repentstood Paul's Cross, where open-air sermons were ance, he was willing to satisfy the Christian world preached to the citizens, and often to the reigning by declaring his hearty compunction, he might monarch. East of it rose St. Paul's School and freely state what he pleased." The deans then a belfry tower, in which hung the famous Jesus told him that they were present on that occasion bells, won at dice by Sir Giles Partridge from that by authority, in order to suggest to him such Ahab of England, Henry VIII. On the south side matters as might be useful for his soul; that they stood the Dean and Chapter's garden, dormitory, desired to do this without offence, and exhorted refectory, kitchen, slaughterhouse, and brewery. him to prepare and settle himself for another These eventually yielded to a cloister, near which, world, and to commence his reconciliation with abutting on the cathedral wall, stood the chapter- God by a sincere and saving repentance. To this house and the Church of St. Gregory. West- exhortation Garnet replied "that he had already ward were the houses of the residentiaries; and done so, and that he had before satisfied himself the deanery, according to Milman, an excellent in this respect." The clergymen then suggested authority, stood on its present site. The precinct" that he would do well to declare his mind to the had six gates-the first and chief in Ludgate Street; people." Then Garnet said to those near him, “I the second in Paul's Alley, leading to Paternoster always disapproved of tumults and seditions against Row; the third in Canon Alley, leading to the the king, and if this crime of the powder treason north door; the fourth, a little gate leading to had been completed I should have abhorred it with Cheapside; the fifth, the Augustine gate, leading my whole soul and conscience." They then advised to Watling Street; the sixth, on the south side, by him to declare as much to the people. "I am very Paul's Chain. On the south tower of the west weak," said he, "and my voice fails me. If I front was the Lollard's Tower, a bishop's prison should speak to the people, I cannot make them for ecclesiastical offenders. hear me; it is impossible that they should hear me." Then said Mr. Recorder, "Mr. Garnet, if you will come with me, I will take care that they shall hear you," and, going before him, led him to the western end of the scaffold. He still hesitated to address the people, but the Recorder urged him to speak his mind freely, promising to repeat his words aloud to the multitude. Garnet then addressed the crowd as follows :-" My good fellow-citizens,—I am come hither, on the morrow of the invention of the Holy Cross, to see an end of all my pains and troubles in this world. I here declare before you all that I consider the late treason and conspiracy against the State to be cruel and detestable; and, for my part, all designs and On the 3rd day of May, 1606 (to condense Dr. endeavours against the king were ever misliked by Abbott's account), Garnet was drawn upon a me; and if this attempt had been perfected, as it hurdle, according to the usual practice, to his was designed, I think it would have been altogether place of execution. The Recorder of London, damnable; and I pray for all prosperity to the the Dean of St. Paul's, and the Dean of Win- king, the queen, and the royal family." Here he chester were present, by command of the King-paused, and the Recorder reminded him to ask the former in the King's name, and the two latter pardon of the King for that which he had attempted. in the name of God and Christ, to assist Garnet" I do so," said Garnet, "as far as I have sinned

The 2,500 railings of the churchyard and the seven ornamental gates, weighing altogether two hundred tons, were cast at Brightling, Sussex, and cost 6d. a pound; the whole cost £11,202 os. 6d. In 1606 St. Paul's Churchyard was the scene of the execution of Father Garnet, one of the Gunpowder Plot conspirators-the only execution, as far as we know, that ever desecrated that spot. It is very doubtful, after all, whether Garnet was cognizant that the plot was really to be carried out, though he may have strongly suspected some dangerous and deadly conspiracy, and the Roman Catholics were prepared to see miracles wrought

at his death.

against him-namely, in that I did not reveal that whereof I had a general knowledge from Mr. Catesby, but not otherwise." Then said the Dean of Winchester, "Mr. Garnet, I pray you deal clearly in the matter: you were certainly privy to the whole business." "God forbid!" said Garnet; "I never understood anything of the design of blowing up the Parliament House." "Nay," responded the Dean of Winchester, "it is manifest that all the particulars were known to you, and

fessing a sin, but by way of conference and consultation; and that Greenaway and Catesby both came to confer with him upon that business, and that as often as he saw Greenaway he would ask him about that business because it troubled him. "Most certainly," said Garnet; "I did so in order to prevent it, for I always misliked it." Then said the Dean, "You only withheld your approbation until the Pope.had given his opinion." "But I was well persuaded," said Garnet, "that the

[graphic][merged small]

you have declared under your own hand that Greenaway told you all the circumstances in Essex." "That," said Garnet, "was in secret confession, which I could by no means reveal." Then said the Dean, "You have yourself, Mr. Garnet, almost acknowledged that this was only a pretence, for you have openly confessed that Greenaway told you not in a confession, but by way of a confession, and that he came of purpose to you with the design of making a confession; but you answered that it was not necessary you should know the full extent of his knowledge." The dean further reminded him that he had affirmed under his own hand that this was not told him by way of con

Pope would never approve the design." "Your intention," said the Dean of Winchester, "was clear from those two breves which you received from Rome for the exclusion of the King." "That," said Garnet, "was before the King came in." "But if you knew nothing of the particulars of the business," said the Dean, "why did you send Baynham to inform the Pope? for this also you have confessed in your examinations." Garnet replied, "I have already answered to all these matters on my trial, and I acknowledge everything that is contained in my written confessions."

Then, turning his discourse again to the people, at the instance of the Recorder, he proceeded to

« PreviousContinue »