called Pemberton's, a figure of a knight (an Aslackby) in chain armour. West, Bp. of Ely, and Isaac Basire, the oriental missionary, were rectors of this parish. Here an ancient Bridge of 5 pointed arches, built by Bp. Skirlawe, crosses the Tees to Yarm in Yorkshire. At this point also the Leeds and Thirsk branch of the North Eastern Rly. enters the county by a viaduct of 43 arches. [Elton Ch. (23 m. N.), contains an effigy of a knight in armour, supposed to be one of the Gowers. 2 m. N.W. Long Newton Ch. (St. Mary's, built 1857, contains the monument of the late Marquis of Londonderry (died Aug. 1, 1854), by Monti. Other monuments of the Vanes are relics of an older ch. on this site, including that of George, 4th son of Sir Harry Vane the elder, with the epitaph: "His honour wonne i'the field lies here in dust, His honour got by grace shall never rust; The former fades, the latter shall faile never: For why, he was St George once, but St George ever."] 10 m. Preston Junct. Stat. Here the Rly. to Thirsk and Leeds branches off S. At Preston Quarry, the Basaltic Dyke, which extends for above 60 m. (from beyond Cockfield), crosses the Tees. The river is traversed by a wooden bridge to reach 11 m. Stockton Stat., on the rt. bank, near the bridge, and m. from the inns, to which there are omnibuses. Stockton-on-Tees (Inns: Black Lion, Hunter's Hotel, Talbot) is an ancient borough (pop. 13,487) and port upon the high N. bank of the Tees, 10 m. from the sea. It derives great advantages from its position on 3 rlys., by which it has been converted into a vast depôt for the coals which they bring down to the quays and staiths on the Tees; but it has suffered in its commercial interests as a port since the creation of Middlesborough on the Yorkshire bank of the Tees and much nearer the sea, though its annual customs still amount to 90,000l. There are manufactories of sailcloth, of linen, and of pottery; a cottonmill has been established, and the yards for shipbuilding are very extensive. The chief feature of the town is its High Street, also used as a marketplace, which has the reputation of being the widest street in England. Its houses are brick, the only stone houses in Stockton being those built from the remains of the ancient castle. In the centre is the Town House, a foreign-looking building, with a clock-tower. This street is notable for its cleanliness, but the rest of the town is a dirty collection of narrow lanes. Near the entrance of the High Street is St. Thomas' Ch., an ugly brick building, of which George Stanley Faber was vicar, 1805-9. The Borough Hall, 80 ft. by 36, was opened 1852. Joseph Ritson, the antiquary, was born at Stockton, 1752. At the end of the High Street, on 1., is the only remnant of the ancient Castle, a short massive stone tower into which some fragments of carving are built. The manor was granted to the see of Durham soon after the Conquest, and a castle was built at a very early period, in which Bp. Pictavia received a visit from King John in 1214, and whither Bp. Farnham "betoke himself to contemplacion," after he had abdicated, and died in 1257. The fortress or manor was rebuilt by Bp. Kellew in the beginning of the 14th cent., and was again repaired by Bp. Barnes in 1578. Bp. Matthew took refuge here from the plague in 1597, and Bp. Morton from the rebels in 1640. Stockton Castle was taken by the Parliamentarians in 1644, and destroyed 1647-52. Beyond the castle is a Bridge of 5 arches connecting the town with South Stockton on the rt. bank of the At Norton, 2 m. S. of Stockton, a collegiate ch. existed in the 13th cent. In the Blakiston Porch, adjoining the present ch., is the effigy of a knight of that family. Stockton is connected with the West Hartlepool Rly. by a branch of 2m. to the Norton Junct. Stat. (Rte. 6). ROUTE 6. who had usurped the bishopric, and had taken possession of almost all the rest of the palatinate. Here also he afforded a secure refuge to William de St. Barbara, the lawful bishop. All the available inhabitants of the place were forced to join the army of the rebel earls in the Rising of the North (1569), which was followed by 4 executions here. 8 m. Norton Junct. Stat. Hence there is a branch line to Stockton. 2 m. N. is Wynyard (Marchioness of Londonderry), a large Grecian mansion, situated to the edge of an artificial lake, in a park of 2500 acres. The building was first begun, from designs of P. W. Wyatt, in 1822, and was near its completion when it was totally destroyed by fire on the night of the 19th Feb., 1841. The whole of the Tempest family pictures, several royal portraits, 25 magnificent orange trees which had belonged to the Empress Josephine, and other relics, perished in the flames. The loss was estimated at 150,000l. The building was immediately recomentered by a magnificent Corinthian menced in the same style. It is portico, and has a statue gallery 120 ft. long, 80 ft. wide, and 60 ft. high, decorated with gorgeous marble columns, and containing copies from the Vatican and other galleries. The chapel is fitted up with Spanish ma6 m. Carlton Stat. m. S. is Red-hogany, and has stained glass winmarshal (Red-mere-hill, where the dows by Wailes. The most remarkch. (of St. Cuthbert) has a Norm. able feature, however, is the "Mechancel arch, 3 Perp. sedilia, and in morial Room" adjoining the mansion the S. transept, called Claxton's on the N. W., which is surrounded by Porch, a fine altar tomb of alabaster, glass cases, filled with relics of the with mutilated effigies representing late Marquis, including a number of J. Langton of Wynyard, d. 1417, and coats, hats, and various other articles his wife Sybil. of dress. FERRYHILL TO WEST HARTLEPOOL 23 m. Sedgefield Stat. (see Rte. 1). The line is joined by a branch line for coals from Sims Pasture Stat. before reaching 1 m. further W. is Bishopton, with an old cross and a strange artificial mount (43 ft. high), surrounded by a double trench, known as the Castle Hill. Here, in 1143, Roger de Conyers, the hereditary constable of Durham Castle, successfully resisted the forces of William Comyn, 66 An obelisk in the Park inscribed 'Wellington, the friend of Londonderry," commemorates a visit of the Duke of Wellington in 1827. The site of the existing hall was formerly occupied by the seat of the Tempests, whose vast estates and collieries devolved in 1813 upon Lady Frances Anne Emily Vane Tempest, quest. Tradition affirms that John married in 1819 to Charles William, of Bellasis, wishing to join the CruBaron Stewart of Mount Stewart, who succeeded to the Marquisate of Londonderry on the death of his brother, 1822. The Marquis died Aug. 1, 1854. The Marchioness is equally remarkable for the enterprising spirit which she exhibits in the personal management of her immense property, and for the annual speeches of advice and encouragement with which she addresses her Irish tenantry. 10 m. Billingham Junc. Stat. Here a great battle was fought in 795, when a victory was gained by Eardulph, King of Northumberland, over the forces of Wada, a rebel. The place was part of the ancient " patrimony of St. Cuthbert." m. rt. is the village, well situated on a rising ground, backed by the Yorkshire hills. At its W. extremity is the Ch. of St. Cuthbert, originally founded about 860 by Eanred, father of Ethelred II. It is worth visiting for the sake of its very early Norm. tower, 144 ft. high, with roundheaded belfry windows, which resemble those of Wearmouth (Rte. 8, but are far more valuable as an example of the style, from being unmutilated and unplastered. The battlement is modern. The walls of the nave are of the same date, but the columns and arches are E. E. (about 1260). The chancel has been lately rebuilt in the E. E. style. The E. E. font has a tall richly carved Elizabethan cover. There are brasses of a Brerely, priest, d. 1480; Neceham, 1436; and Lambton, 1583. On the threshold of the S. door is a slab, inscribed with Saxon characters. Wallis, the botanist and historian of Northumberland, was curate here, 1775-92. In this parish (1 m. N.E.) is the hamlet of Bellasis, called from the family of that name, who became possessed of it soon after the Con Re saders, yet unwilling to leave his When exchanged Bellasys for Henknowell." The popular reading, still remem- The name of Newton Bewly (Beau- [There is a branch line from Billingham to Port Clarence at the mouth of the Tees, a shipping-place for coal, where there are extensive blast-furnaces and iron-works. Train runs in 5 minutes]. 13 m. Greatham Stat. 1.2 m. is the Hospital of God, St. Mary, and St. Cuthbert, founded in 1272 by Stichall, Bishop of Durham, as a compromise with the crown, when the forfeited lands of Peter de Montfort (cousin of Simon), slain in the battle of Evesham, were given up to him. Stichalls foundation was for 5 poor priests, 2 clerks, and 40 poor brethren. The hospital was refounded (in 1610) for 13 poor unmarried men, by James I., in a charter in which it is called 'The hospital of God in Greatham.' It was rebuilt 1803-9 from designs of Wyatt. In the chapel are three old grey gravestones, relics of the original building; one is that of Sparkes, only bishop of Berwick, another of Middleton, an ancient master. A Hospital for 6 poor widows was | rounded by the water, and, knowing founded by Donner Parkhurst, master of Greatham Hospital in 1765. The whole way along this line there is a fine view on it of the Yorkshire Hills, of which the highest point, Rosebery Hill, is 1500 ft. above the sea. Beneath, the smoke from the blast-furnaces of Port Clarence is seen drifting across the flat cornlands. The open sea comes in sight at Greatham, 15 m. Seaton Stat. rt., m. is Seaton Carew. (Inn: Crown). A small sea-bathing place 3 m. S. of Hartlepool, generally well filled during the summer months. The principal part of the village surrounds three sides of a green, the fourth side being open to the sea. The chief attraction of the place consists in its firm and level sands, 5 m. in length. There is something picturesque in the wide views of sand and flat corn-fields, bounded on one side by the blue hills of Yorkshire which end at sea in the abrupt headland of Whitby, and on the other by Hartlepool, with its docks and shipping and the noble ch. of St. Hilda rising on the end of the promontory. Vestiges of Roman buildings are occasionally found in the sand, but all traces are lost of the ancient chapel of St. Thomas à Becket, given by Brus to the priory of Guisborough. At Seaton Snook, a point 2 m. S., which runs out into the estuary of the Tees, are remains of fortifications built to defend the mouth of the river in 1667. there was no possibility of escape, he began to consider how he could longest preserve himself from being carried away by the tide. A current of a few yards was all the uncovered space left him. He selected the highest spot, on which he placed his leap (a wicker-basket carried on the shoulder in shrimping), and fixing his shrimping-pole, with the net downwards, to give the pole as sure a purchase as he could, he mounted his basket, and held by the pole. The tide soon covered his feet, and gradually flowed as high as his middle. After three hours he thought he saw the water begin to fall; but in a few minutes a breeze sprung up, and the tide flowed again six or seven inches. The tide, however, was falling, and he remained on his sand-bank till he was relieved by the fishing-boats in the morning. His situation in the river was 2 m. from the Durham coast, and 3 from Yorkshire, in the midst of the Tees Estuary, with the wide ocean full in front of the river mouth. He said it was an awful sight to look over the waters; but his presence of mind and trust in Providence never forsook him."-Surtees. Hartlepool is seen rising from the sea, as the Rly. approaches, 17 m. West Hartlepool. (Inn: Murray's Royal Hotel, close to the stat.. Until 1845 this place consisted only of a few solitary houses on the strip of land known as Middleton Sands, between the ferry and the port. Now it is a large town of Between this and Hartlepool are 12,603 Inhab., full of bustle, noise, remains of a submerged forest. The and commerce, black as ink, from cockle beds at the mouth of the the clouds of coal dust which are river afford employment to many of constantly swept over it by the wind, the neighbouring poor. "On Oct. and from the smoke of the numerous 31, 1820, Arthur Marlham of Great- tramways, which intersect it like a ham was pursuing his occupation on labyrinth in every direction, and the sand islands in the Tees, when which carry the coals to the port, he was overtaken by the tide in the and discharge them into the endless dusk of the evening. He did not see collier ships with which it is crowded. his danger till he was nearly sur-The difficulties arising from the in tricate navigation at the mouth of the Tees, by which the whole of the coals in the southern portion of the county were formerly exported from Stockton and Port Clarence, first led to the project of forming a new dock near Hartlepool Slake, to be approached by a new Rly. The works were begun in 1845, and on June 1, 1847, "the harbour, formed by stone piers projecting from the land, containing an area of 13 acres, and the dock, excavated in the adjoining meadows, containing 8 acres, were opened amid great rejoicings. In 1852, more accommodation being needed, new piers were constructed, enclosing an area of 44 acres. Another dock, called the Jackson Dock," containing 14 acres, was also formed and opened, June 1, 1852. Accommodation was thus provided in the harbour and docks for 500 vessels. In 1853 the "Commercial Dock, of 9 acres, was added to the others."-Fordyce. 66 From the ground being the property of the Dock Company, the town is built with considerable regularity. Christ Ch., a large edifice in the E. E. style, was built from designs of E. B. Lamb. timber, 56,244 tons; and 164,091 qrs. of grain." Walcott's Guide. 1 m. S. of the Harbour is Stranton (Strand-town), where the Church of All Saints, on the site of a more ancient building, given by Robert Brus to the priory of Guisborough, is "more harmonious than the generality of Durham Churches, for there is no great dissimilarity of style in its different parts."-Billings. The chancel has stalls, and in the N. aisle is a figure of J. Bellasys of Outon (1640) rising from the tomb. ROUTE 7. HARTLEPOOL TO HENDON (i.e. SUN- Hartlepool (Inns: Railway Hotel; King's Head: Pop. 12,245) is separated from West Hartlepool by the inlet forming the harbour, which is crossed near its mouth by a ferry, approached on the S. by an iron tunnel for foot passengers. "An official return, just prepared' affords an illustration of the astonishing progress of the port of West Hartlepool during the last 12 years. In 1847 only 902 vessels entered the port, while in 1860 the number was 5,175. The quantity of coal shipped in 1847 was 115,912 tons, and in 1859, 843,851 tons. In 1853 the foreign exports of goods (exclusive of coals) were 6,352 tons, Many derivations have been found and the customs' value 22,7567.; in for the name of Hart-le-pol; but that 1860 the exports reached 61,348 tons, of Hart in the pool is the most and the customs' value 4,214,7837. natural, as it is certain, from the The import trade was not commenced enormous fossil trees and huge anttill 1853, when there were reported- lers which have been frequently general cargoes, 8,521 tons; timber, found in the sand of Hartlepool 1310 tons; and 84,319 qrs. of grain. lake, that this peninsula, almost inIn 1860 the quantities were respec-sulated at high water, must once tively—general cargoes, 24,748 tons; have been covered by a forest |