THE FUTURE OF SEVASTOPOL.

51

doubtless restore itself without needing any particular coddling on the part of the Government. Like Odessa, Nicolaeff, Rostoff-on-the-Don, Taganrog, and half a dozen other places on the Black Sea littoral, Sevastopol is being pushed into prominence by the expansion of the population and the trade at its rear. If, as many believe, and myself among them, Russia is yielding to the Teuton in Poland and along the Baltic, she is making up for it by bulging out in the direction of the Black Sea and Caucasus. Therein lies the real danger to

Constantinople.

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CHAPTER IV.

GLIMPSES OF THE CRIMEA.

Departure from Sevastopol-Views of the Crimean Coast from on board the Steamer-The Crimean War. Ought we to be ashamed of it or not?—The Rivalry of England and Russia in the EastReal Importance of the Crimean War-Ought Russia to have Constantinople?-English Policy in Turkey-St. George's Monastery and Balaclava-Yalta as a Watering-Place-The GrapeCure-Life at Yalta-Visit to Theodosia-Kaffa in Olden Times -Wonderful Richness of the Crimea in the Middle Ages— What the Russians have done for Theodosia-The Beauty of the Black Sea-The Rat Fortress-The Defences of Kertch-Cannon Stolen and Sold from the Ramparts of the Fortress during the Turkish War.

WE left Sevastopol at two o'clock in the afternoon, a military band, bound for Kertch, playing a warlike tune, and, with the numerous boats passing across the bay from the north side, filled with white-coated soldiers with their bayonets fixed, bringing back our memories to the period of the siege. As we steamed out of the harbour, and worked our way round the coast in the direction of Balaclava, catching numerous glimpses as we did so of the trench-traversed heights where the English and the French fought out their great struggle with the Russians, the heroic associations of the place summoned all on deck, and more than one grey-headed survivor of the conflict pointed out to eager crowds the sites of the most cherished events of the beleaguerment. That there were Englishmen on board made no difference to the narrators. Ignorant of their presence, or

THE VALUE OF THE CRIMEAN WAR.

53

perhaps ignoring it, they and their hearers discussed the operations of the siege with that tolerance which is so characteristic of Russians. They were beaten, they said, because the Allies had the superiority in the long run of skill, money, and military resources; but, after all, the tenacity with which they held Sevastopol was something to be proud of.

It has become the fashion to depreciate the Crimean war, and to speak of it as something for Englishmen to be ashamed of.* I do not share that feeling. Regarded as a whole, an Englishman certainly cannot but view with vexation the blundering of the chiefs, the cruel muddle and stupid mismanagement that cost us so many lives, and the unpatriotic jealousies which led to Kars being abandoned, in spite of its heroic defence, to Russia. That our soldiers fought with invincible bravery is very inadequate consolation, for the world knew well enough before what tough assailants we are, and there is no need for us to embark in campaigns such as the Crimean war simply to advertise our courage. From this point of view, treating the matter in a military sense, Englishmen cannot regard the Crimean war with unqualified satisfaction. But this is not the ground on which

The Duke of Argyll denounced this canting spirit in a most creditable manner in his speech on the Russian annexation of Merv, March 10, 1884:-"I have the honour, and a great honour I deem it, of being one of the very few survivors of the Cabinet which fought the Crimean war. Unlike many other members of the Liberal party, who are never tired of denouncing that war as either a great folly or a great crime, I have never been ashamed of the part which the English Government took on that occasion. We did not fight for the resurrection of Turkey. I, for one, never would. We fought for the great principle that, whatever the fate of Turkey might be, it was not to rest in the hands of Russia, but was a question to be decided by Europe, not by Russia, not by secret treaties and conventions giving her the power to do what she pleases when she pleases. That was the principle for which we fought, and it is the principle which I, for one, should be ready to fight for again."

the war is being attacked nowadays. It is asserted that the war was a stupid, senseless war, because politically nothing of permanent value was gained by it. It would have been better, in short, to have left the Turks to their fate, instead of involving ourselves in a struggle which, after all, has failed to save the Ottoman Empire from the danger of extinction.

This is an opinion which I do not think any one can hold who has really at heart the interests of our Empire, and is acquainted with the features of its progress during the last thirty years. To be plain, the English and the Russians have been rivals in Asia for more than half a century, and leaving undiscussed the causes of the rivalry, we have to face the fact that however much our statesmen may aim at peace at any price, and at being left alone, the competition will become more acute every year. The mere expansion of the two Empires, apart from schemes of conquest, real or imaginary, on the part of Russia, is bringing the two Asiatic frontiers together; and I do not believe that a junction can be effected without leading to serious dangers, which we ought to prudently guard against by making our position as strong as possible. Thanks to the check the Crimean war undoubtedly inflicted on Russia, the English have had breathing time to consolidate their position in the East, and the longer Russia is kept from acquiring the whole of the Black Sea and Constantinople, the better prepared we shall be to confront her in any conflict which may arise in the future out of the rival interests of the two peoples. But for the Crimean war we should have been seriously handicapped in establishing our power in the East, and we have therefore to thank those statesmen who gave the check to Russia for that start in the race for empire, which is rendering the English the strongest people in the world. In his recent work on Egypt, Mr. Mackenzie Wallace urged that we should permanently

RIVALRY OF THE ENGLISH AND THE RUSSIANS. 55

occupy Egypt, and, as a sop to Russia, resign to her Constantinople. I do not approve of this. By all means render Egypt by degrees another India, but let us keep Russia out of Constantinople as long as we can. If the concession of Constantinople to Russia would put an end to the rivalry of the two peoples, and afford a guarantee of permanent friendship, I would let Russia occupy the city at once. No one desires more than I do that England and Russia should be friends. But the gift of Constantinople to Russia would no more put an end to the rivalry of the two peoples in Asia-in China, in Central Asia, in Persia, and Asia Minor-than the presentation of Madagascar to France would suspend Anglo-Gallic rivalry on the Congo or in Tonquin. Hence, however much we may secretly nourish the conviction that Constantinople will ultimately fall to Russia, we should strive to keep it out of her hands as long as we

can.

About a couple of hours' steaming brought us abreast of St. George's Monastery and Balaclava; but by this time the passengers had exhausted their interest in the siege, and were busy down below dining. The saloon was crowded with passengers, all the tables being occupied, for Sevastopol is the nearest railway terminus to Yalta, the fashionable and flourishing watering-place of South Russia. After dinner all hurried on deck, to escape the intense heat and view the Crimean scenery, the best of which is seen from Balaclava to Theodosia. The huge solid blocks of mountain rising sheer out of the sea to the height of three or four thousand feet, afford continually scenes of a stupendous and picturesque character, and render the evening's journey along this part of the Black Sea full of interest. Unfortunately for the Russians, when we reached Cape Aia, and left the shelter of the mountains for less protected water, the intense heat was suddenly dispersed by a fierce blast,