out ore on those terms for three months, when the bargain would expire. Two bings and a half go to the ton! 'Twas hard work, he said; and the worst of it was, that the bargains mostly turned out better for the master than the man. If 'twasn't for the club in which they could provide for old age, he didn't know what was to become of 'em.

At Hartleycleugh toll-bar the road rises once more, and we leave the few trees and the patches of cultivation that adorn the lowest part of the valley, for the bare wild fells: higher and higher, till for the third time to day we come to a range of tall poles by the roadside, telling mutely of deep winter snows. Ere long the summit becomes, as is not uncommon among Northumbrian hills, a dismal peat bog, and the curlew flies round us with mournful cry. The great green hills on the eastern side of the vale, appear delightful by contrast. The view extends for miles around, and far in the north we can see the blue heights of Simonside which look into Coquetdale.

On the left rise two massive shafts, faintly smoking, the tops of the chimneys of Allendale smelt-mill. A little farther, and we see Allendale town, two miles distant in a valley on the right, and beyond that stands the mill hence we form a surprising notion of the length of Northumbrian chimneys. By and by, the sight of hedgerows and groves of ash and fir, and a path through a pretty dingle make us aware that we have descended into the region of smiles.

Allentown, as we may call it, stands on the East Allen; a rustic-looking place, with somewhat of the bare aspect of a settlement, occasioned, perhaps, by the wide open space that separates its two lines of houses. This space was thinly strewn with what looked like

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seaside shingle-stones of the bigness of turkey-eggs -which seemed to me a very primitive way of paving a market-place, or sowing a green, and I thought to myself that in such an unambitious town a traveller would be a prize.

But I was mistaken: The landlady of the King's Head had not a bed to spare; at least, she said she hadn't, though I did not believe her, and advised me to go next door. Thither I went. Mine host of the Golden Lion, who stood drowsily against his door-post, was very sorry; would let me have a room and welcome, but every room was engaged. I walked across the shingle to a public-house: no, the master and mistress had gone to Stagshaw Bank fair, and their representative would not be convinced that their absence made the more room for me. I recrossed the shingle to another public-house; same result; then to two others, but they were all churls alike, and appeared to consider the entertainment of travellers the very last part of their duty.

"Can you tell me where an honest man can find a bed ?" I said to a policeman whom I met. He named all the houses one after another which had refused me, and that was all he could do to help me.

On further inquiry I heard of a Mary Teasdale who took in lodgers. She, however, had given up taking in lodgers just the week before.

What did it mean? I wondered. Is a man with a knapsack on his shoulder taken for a rogue here in Northumberland? Perhaps it is a case for which the doctor can prescribe.

I knocked at a door which bore the doctor's name on a brass-plate. It was opened by the assistant. I stated my case, and mentioned that I had credentials,

in the shape of a letter from a gentleman who may be described as Viceroy of Allendale. But the case was beyond the reach of medicine. It was very strange : and the adviser declaring himself unable to advise, made a bow, and shut the door.

My day's walking amounted to about fifteen miles. I wished to stay in Allentown in order to see the smeltmill on the following morning; but now the chances seemed in favour of my having to walk to Haydon Bridge, seven miles farther, to find quarters. My letter was addressed to the manager of the mill, and I could call on him on the way.

He was at home, taking tea after the labours of the day, and looked, as I thought, doubtfully at the letter, and said, "Ay; ye'll come and see the mill in the morning."

I told him of the cheerful reception I had met with at Allentown. "Ay; they're cautious folk up there," he replied, and advised me to go to the public-house at Thorney Gate and mention his name, and I should be sure to get a bed.

To which, warned by my experience of Northumbrian hospitality, I answered, "Suppose I don't?” "Then ye had best gang on to Catton, ye'll be sure to get a bed at one of the public-houses there."

Suppose I don't? My belief is, that I shall have to go on to Haydon Bridge."

"Well, ye 'll come and see the mill in the morning." "Good evening to you," I rejoined; "if I sleep to night at Haydon Bridge, you won't catch me back in this inhospitable country in the morning."

Descending the hill, I came presently to the mill and the great arch which carries the chimney across the road on its way to the wild fell where we passed

GOOD ENTERTAINMENT.

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the topmost ends some two hours since; and when I saw the extent of the mill and the numerous piles of pigs of lead by the road side, I found it easy to believe that the Allendale mines yield one seventh of all the lead produced in the kingdom.

My foreboding was verified. Thorney Gate wouldn't. And at Catton, about a mile farther, the Hare and Hounds wouldn't, the Unicorn wouldn't, the Licensed to sell couldn't; and were all as inexorable as Allentown; had I asked them to lend me a ten pound note, they could hardly have been more surprised than they were by a request for a bed. So it is not always true that you can get what you want with money.

After passing Langley smelt-mills—a large irregular group of buildings, and chimneys, and rubbish, on the slope of a hill-the road leaves the bleak-looking fields and descends into a thickly wooded valley, where, on one side you have the ruin of Langley Castle, while on the other the noise of running water accompanies you down to the vale of Tyne.

Haydon Bridge is a small town on the Newcastle and Carlisle railway, and ought not, therefore, to be unreasonably shy of strangers; but the old lady who sat in the bar of the Anchor said she "could na' put me up."

"What!" I replied, "is it all over this blessed Northumberland alike? Do you take travellers for moss-troopers ?"

"Na; but the master and mistress had gone to Stagshaw Bank fair."

"What of that; they surely haven't taken the beds with them. You must be daft to give me such an

answer as that."

"Na mair daft than ye are," retorted grandam.

I cut short the altercation by declaring that whichever might be daft, I should stay all night; and I made myself comfortable on a couple of chairs in the parlour. Presently a waitress came in and took a look at me, and made a very stiff reply to my order for tea. But I suppose her report was favourable; for soon after she brought in the tray, and told me I could have a bed.

Northumberland only began to be civilised about the reign of George III., and it appears from my experience that the county has yet something to learn. How do horses fare if my treatment is "good entertainment" for a man?

What it was in the uncivilised times may be read in many a page of turbulent history. To go no farther back than the days of Roger North, we find a state of things which by contrast throws the good new times up into favourable relief. We will let Roger speak in his own words :

:

"The County of Northumberland," he says, "hath been exceedingly infested with thieving of Cattle, which is the Remains of the Border Trade, since the Union with Scotland, after the Way used, in Time of Peace, before. For as, in Italy, the Murderer, running into the next Territory, was safe: so here they stole on either Side; and the other, under a different Jurisdiction, was an Asylum. This was so great a Mischief that all the considerable Farm Houses (the Houses of Gentlemen were Castles of course,) were built of stone in the manner of a Square Tower, with an overhanging Battlement, and, underneath the Cattle were lodged every Night. In the upper Room the Family lodged; and when the Alarm came, they went up to the Top, and, with hot Water and Stones from the Battlement,