facion, or an apprentise of the lawe or pleder come to the barre with a millaine bonet or frenche hatte on his heed, sette

and the second time to be expelled the House.' And in 1557, general orders applying to all the Inns of Court were issued: "That none of the Companions, except Knights or Benchers, from the last day of September next, wear in their Doublets or Hoses any light colours, except scarlet and crimsons or wear any upper velvet Cap, or any Scarf or wings in their gowns, white Jerkyns, Buskins, or Velvet shoes, Double Cuffs on their shirts, feathers or ribbens on their Caps, upon pain to forfeit for the first default iiis. ivd., and the second expulsion without redemption.'— Dugdale, Origines, pp. 191, 310.

This probably refers to the style of dress adopted by those who danced the 'gaillarde,' described in the first volume of this work, and which was of a lively character, for we are told: 'Aprez la pauane on dance coustumierement la gaillarde qui est legiere.'—Arbeau, Orchesographie, p. 33. In the very next year (1532) after the first appearance of The Governour, an Act of Parliament was passed for Reformacyon of Excesse in Apparayle,' which enacted that none but the King and members of the Royal Family should wear purple silk or cloth of gold tissue, and that no one who could not 'dispende' £100 per annum might wear any 'satene damaske silke chamlett or taffata in his gowne cote with sleves, or other uttermost apparell or garment, nor any maner of velvett otherwise than in sleveles jakettes, doublettes, coyfes, partelettes or purses, nor any furre wherof the like kynde groweth not within this realme of Englande, excepte foynes genettes, called Grey genettes and Bogye.' But it was expressly provided that the Act should ‘not extende nor be hurtfull or prejudiciall to the Justices of the one Benche or the other, the Barons of the Kynges Eschequier, the Maister of the Rolles, Serjauntes at Lawe, the Masters of the Chauncerie, ne to any of the Counseill of the Quene, Prince, or Princesses, Apprentises of the Lawe, Recorders,' &c.; 'ne to any utter Barrester of any of the Innes of Courte for wearing in any of his appareill suche silke and Furre' as was before limited for them that could dispend £20 per annum. 'Nor to any other student of the Innes of Courte or Chauncerye.' Servants and yeomen who could not dispende of freholde' 40 shillings per annum were prohibited from wearing their hoses 'garded or myxed with any other thing that may be sene on or thorough the utter parte of their hosen, but with the self same clothe onely;' nor any shirte or shirte bande, under or upper cappe, coiffe, bonnet or hatte garnysshed, myxte, made or wrought with silke, gold, or silver.' The Act was to come into operation from the feast of the Purification of our Lady (2 Feb.) 1533.'

6

In the Privy Purse Expenses of Henry VIII. there are two or three entries relating to the purchase of Myllain bonets,' and the learned editor says: 'What a Milan bonnet was does not exactly appear. In both instances they were bought for the king's fool.' The price charged to the king was eight shillings apiece. It is a curious fact that the tradesman of whom they were purchased is called in one instance Christopher Mylloner; and Sir Nicholas Nicolas says: A milloner of the 16th, was evidently a different sort of tradesman from the milliner of the 19th century,

6

overy

full of plumes, poudred with spangles. So is there apparaile comely to euery astate and degree, and that whiche excedeth' or lackethe, procureth reproche, in a noble man specially. For de apparaile simple or scante, reprouethe hym of auarice. If it be alway exceding precious, and often tymes chaunged, as well in to charge as straunge and newe facions, it causeth him to be noted dissolute of maners."

for besides caps, bonnets, and gloves, he then sold knives, sheaths, girdles, jewels, &c.'-Ubi supra, p. 337. Is it not possible that the name of Mylloner was derived from the Myllayne bonnets which he sold? or because such trade was exercised specially by the Milanese? The Milan bonnets of the 16th century seems to have enjoyed the same sort of reputation as an article of commerce that those of Leghorn possessed in more modern times.

So Patrizi says: 'Concludamus igitur maximam in Regibus Principibusque virtutem esse magnificentiam, à quâ quicumque abest, vix quippiam dignum laude agere potest, et in avaritiæ crimen facilè incurrit, detrectatoribusque obnoxius redditur.' -De Regno et Reg. Instit. lib. vii. tit. 11. Erasmus, however, considers frugality in a prince a sign of self-restraint. In aliis frugalitas aut mundicies vel inopiæ tribui potest vel parsimoniæ, si quis iniquius interpretetur. At eadem in Principe nihil aliud esse potest quàm temperantiæ documentum, cum is rebus modicè utitur, cui quantum libet, tantum suppetit.'-Instit. Prin. Christ. p. 23.

contractum est.

In vestitu mediocritatem servet, metiaturque se ad mensuram sui censûs. Ut enim turpe est sordidâ atque indecorâ veste uti, ita invidiosum nitidiore atque elegantiore, et præcipuè cum res familiaris minus suppetit, vel ubi æs alienum Est etiam considerandum in vestitu, ut cultus concessus sit, et non discedat à consuetudine patriæ. Deceat personam, genus, ætatem, mores. Ut lauta vestis, quoad decet, dignitatem authoritatemque hominibus addit, sic muliebris et luxuriosa non corpus ornat, sed animum detegit.'-Patrizi, De Instit. Those about the Court, as usual, set the fashion and must Reipub. lib. v. tit. 10. be held responsible for their example. It was for this they incurred some years later Ascham's displeasure. If three or four great ones in court will needs outrage in apparel, in huge hose, in monstrous hats, in garish colours : let the prince proclaim, make laws, order, punish, command every gate in London daily to be watched ; let all good men beside do every where what they can; surely the misorder of apparel in mean men abroad shall never be amended, except the greatest in court will order and mend themselves first.'-Works, vol. iii. p. 145, ed. 1864. Montaigne, at a still earlier period, invoked the assistance of Royalty itself to check the prevailing extravagance. Combien soubdainement viennent en honneur parmy nos armees les pourpoincts crasseux de chamois et de toile ; et la polisseure et richesse des vestements à reproche et à mespris! Que les roys commencent à quitter ces despenses, ce sera faict en un mois, sans edict et sans ordonnance; nous irons touts aprez.'-Essais, tom. i. p. 433, ed. 1854.

The most noble emperours of Rome, Augustus,a Traiane," Hadriane, Antonine,d Seuerus, and Alexander, whiche were of all other incomparable in honorable lyuynge, used a discrete moderation in their apparaile, all thoughe they were greatte emperours and gentiles. Howe moche more ought than christen men, whose denomination is founded on humilitie, and they that be nat of the astate of princes, to shewe a

• 'Veste non temerè aliâ quàm domesticâ usus est, ab sorore et uxore et filiâ neptibusque confectâ : togis, neque restrictis, neque fusis: clavo nec lato nec angusto: calciamentis altiusculis, ut procerior, quàm erat, videretur.'-Sueton. Oct. 73.

'The thick and straight-cut hair, smoothed over the brow without a curl or a parting, marks the simplicity of the man's character, in a voluptuous age which delighted in the culture of flowing or frizzled locks.'—Merivale, Hist. of Rome, vol. vii. p. 270.

• Vestem humillimam frequentur acciperet, sine auro balteum sumeret, sinę gemmis fibulas stringeret, capulo vix eburneo spatham clauderet.'—Aug. Hist, tom. i. pp. 88, 89, ed. 1671.

■ Visus est sane ab amicis, et cum privatis vestibus, et domestica quædam gerens.'-Aug. Hist. tom. i. p. 261.

• Hic tam exiguis vestibus usus est ut vix tunica ejus aliquid purpuræ haberet, et cum hirta chlamyde humeros velaret.'-Aug. Hist, tom. i. p. 631.

'Vestes sericas ipse raras habuit: holosericas nunquam induit. Usus est ipse chlamyde de coccinâ sæpe. In urbe tamen semper togatus fuit, et in Italiæ urbibus. Prætextam et pictam togam nunquam nisi consul accepit... Braccas albas habuit, non coccineas, ut prius solebant. Gemmarum quod fuit, vendidit, et aurum in ærarium contulit, dicens gemmas viris usui non esse.'-Ibid. p. 969-978.

The following is a specimen of the language in which the divines, at the end of the century, inveighed against the extravagant fashions of the day: 'As for priuate subiectes, it is not at any hande lawful that they should weare silkes, Veluets, Satens, Damaskes, golde, siluer, and what they list (though they be neuer so able to maintaine it), except they being in some kinde of office in the common wealth doe use it for the dignifying and innobling of the same; or at the commandement of the chiefe Magistrate for some speciall consideration or purpose. But now there is suche a confuse mingle mangle of apparell in England, and suche horrible excesse thereof, as euery one is permitted to flaunt it out in what apparell he listeth himselfe or can get by any meanes. So that it is very hard to knowe who is worshipfull, who is a Gentleman, who is not; for you shall haue those which are neither of the Nobilitie, Gentilitie, nor Yeomanrie-no, nor yet any Magistrate or officer in the common wealth goe daylie in silkes, Veluettes, Satens, Damaskes, Taffaties, and such like, notwithstandyng that they be bothe base by birth, meane by estate, and seruile by calling. And this I accompt a great confusion and a generall disorder in a Christian common wealth.'-Stubbes

moderation and constance in vesture, that they diminisshe no parte of their maiestie, either with newe fanglenesse or with ouer sumptuous expences? And yet may this last be suffred wher ther is a great assembly of straungers, for than some tyme it is expedient that a nobleman in his apparaile do aduaunte hym selfe to be both riche and honourable. But in this as well as in other partes of maiestie tyme is to be highly considered. Semblable deckynge oughte to be in the house of a noble man or man of honour. I meane concernynge ornamentes of

Anat. of Abuses, p. 11, ed. 1595. The subject of extravagance in dress is discussed at great length in a treatise, entitled De l'estat honneste des Chrestiens en leur accoustrement, printed at Geneva in 1580 by Jean de Laon (Laonius), the author of which was apparently unknown to M. Brunet, and which is entirely ignored by M. Barbier in his Dict. des Ouvrages Anonymes, but which is attributed by M. Michel Nicolas in the Nouvelle Biographie Générale, to Lambert Daneau, a French Protestant, who was professor of theology at Geneva towards the end of the 16th century, and author of various works bearing on the Reformation. Daneau insisted on the importance of each rank of society adhering to its appropriate costume. 'Quant à la qualité il y a aussi distinction. Car les uns sont Princes, les autres suiets, les uns nobles, les autres roturiers, les uns riches, les autres poures. Et telle diuersité n'est point entre les hommes que par la prouidence de Dieu, lequel par une telle difference gouuerne et maintient la societe des hommes selon sa sagesse: ne plus ne moins qu'il entretient en une harmonie et accord admirable tout cest uniuers par la composition d'elemens et qualités si contraires. Et pourtant comme on ne peut corrumpre cest ordre, qu'on ne repugne a Dieu et qu'il ne s'en ensuiue de la confusion: ce seroit faute aussi de vouloir oster les moiens d'une telle distinction entre lesquels a tousiours esté compté l'accoustrement.' And after citing examples from Sacred and Roman History, he continues: Tellement que pour toutes ces choses nous concluons que pour garder la bienseance aux accoustremens un chascun doit considerer sa qualité et que la police que nous auons en ce royaume est bien fondée que chascun s'accommode a suiure son rang. Si le marchant ou le laboureur ou aucun des suiets veut auoir l'ornement du prince on le doit reprimer; mais si aussi quelcun debat que l'accoustrement d'un Prince ne doit point estre plus magnifique que celuy d'un vacher ou simple marchant, c'est vouloir mettre trouble et confusion.'-Chap. xvi. p. 82, ed. 1580,

So Peacham says: But if to do your Prince honour at a tilting, employed in embassage, comming in of some great stranger, or you are to giue entertainment to Princes or Noble personages at your house, as did Cosmo de Medici, or haply ye command in the warres, spare not to be braue with the brauest.'- Compleat Gentleman, p. 191, ed. 1622.

Stubbes, in his Anatomie of Abuses, says: Cloath of gold, Arase, Tapestrie, and suche other riche ornamentes, pendices, and hanginges in a house of estate

halle and chambres, in Arise," painted tables, and images serue not onely to manual uses and seruile occupations, but also to decore, to beautifie and adorne the house, and to shewe the riche estate and glorie of the owner.' -P. 12, ed. 1595. And Harrison, describing the furniture in use at the time, says, 'Certes in noble men's houses it is not rare to see abundance of Arras, rich hangings of tapistrie, siluer vessell, and so much other plate as may furnish sundrie cupbords, to the summe oftentimes of a thousand or two thousand pounds at the least: whereby the value of this and the rest of their stuffe doth grow to be almost inestimable. Likewise, in the houses of knights, gentlemen, merchantmen, and some other wealthie citizens, it is not geson to behold generallie their great prouision of tapistrie, Turkie work, pewter, brasse, fine linen, and thereto costlie cupbords of plate, worth fiue or six hundred or a thousand pounds, to be deemed by estimation.' And he goes on to say that even the middle classes in his time used such furniture as their forefathers would have been unable to purchase. 'As herein, all these sorts do far exceed their elders and predecessors, and in neatnesse and curiositie, the merchant all other; so in time past, the costlie furniture staied there, whereas now it is descended yet lower, euen unto the inferiour artificers and manie farmers, who by vertue of their old, and not of their new leases, haue for the most part learned also to garnish their cupbords with plate, their ioined beds with tapistrie and silke hangings, and their tables with carpets and fine naperie, whereby the wealthe of our countrie (God be praised, therefore, and giue us grace to imploie it well) doth infinitelie appeare.'-Descript. of England, p.188, ed. 1587. The word geson is said by Halliwell in his Dict. of Archaic, &c., Words, to mean 'rare, scarce;' but oddly enough, although he gives three illustrations of its use, they are all from MSS. and he does not quote the above passage. The word is not mentioned by either Skinner, Somner, or Bosworth, but Cotgrave translates the French rare, 'rare, seld, unusuall, geason.'

=

• Arise Arras, which was the name applied to the cloth or tapestry made at Arras, in France, in the department of the Pas de Calais. Arras, then called Nemetacum, was anciently the capital of the Atrebates, a Belgic nation, whose name is still preserved in that of the modern town. These people were celebrated for their manufacture of cloth in the later imperial period. For we are told that the Emperor Gallienus (A.D. 248–268) 'received with a careless smile the repeated intelligence of invasions, defeats, and rebellions; and singling out with affected contempt some particular production of the lost province, he carelessly asked whether Rome must be ruined unless it was supplied with linen from Egypt and Arras cloth from Gaul.' Gibbon, Decline and Fall of Rom. Empire, vol. i. p. 408, ed. 1854. 'Perditâ Galliâ arrisisse ac dixisse perhibetur, "Non sine Atrebaticis sagis tuta Respublica est ?"'-Hist. August. tom. i. p. 200, ed. 1671. Again, Vopiscus, in his life of the Emperor Carinus (A.D. 284), mentions Atrebatici birri (ibid. p. 861). It seems to have been occasionally used in England for the hangings of beds, which, in the will of one Ralph de Nevill of Westmorland, dated May 4, A.D. 1440, are bequeathed as legacies. 'Item do et lego Johannæ uxori meæ terciam partem bonorum et rerum meorum mobilium, cum optimo cipho meo auri, cum vi chargeours, xxiv discis argenteis, et cum uno lecto