nity of the writer, than to edify the reader.

Travelling in Canada is certainly not altogether so pleasant as travelling in England. The Canadian calesh is a very sorry vehicle, compared to the English postchaise; nor are the auberges quite so comfortable as English inns. A person who had been accustomed to travel only in England, would say, that a Canadian calesh, with its two wheels and single horse, without springs, and without cushions, was not fit for a Christian to be put into: and as to the auberges, or inns, that they were such filthy places, that you might lodge in a hog-sty without your olfactory nerves being more offended.

I certainly must say, that there is great room for improvement, both in the form of the calesh, and the comforts and accommodations of the inns. But I have seen

worse.

In order to reconcile myself to my situation, and extract as much happiness from the moment as it would admit of, I avoided comparisons with English inns and modes of travelling. I recalled to memory Spanish, Portuguese, and even French inns

and conveyances: the balance was much in favour of Canada. I felt myself perfectly comfortable, and thanked my stars that it was no worse.

It adds greatly to the comfort of travelling in Canada, that you are every where treated with the greatest politeness and attention. This, to me, counterbalances a thousand inconveniences. Often have I felt provoked on the continent of Europe, when, after a fatiguing journey,-wet and hungry, perhaps, into the bargain,-stopping at a filthy place, they called an inn, I have looked in vain for the least civility or assistance from the people of the house; frequently obliged to carry in my own luggage, and endeavour to find a place where it might be safe from the thief-like fellows about me-the landlord, perhaps, amongst them. How different is the case in Canada! A Canadian aubergiste (landlady) the moment you stop, receives you at the door with a degree of politeness and urbanity which is as unexpected as it is pleasing. Voulez vous bien, Monsieur, avoir la complaisance d'entrer; voila une chaise, Monsieur; asseyez vous s'il vous plait. If

they have got any thing you want, it is given at once with a good grace. If they have not, they tell you so in such a tone and manner, as to shew that they are sorry for it. Je n'en ai point, Monsieur; J'en suis mortifiée.

You see that it is their poverty that refuses you, and not their will. A man must be as savage as a Goth, and as surly as a city epicure over spoiled venison, who, with such treatment, though his dinner should be indifferent, could leave the house in bad humour.

The Canadian innkeeper is frequently a farmer also, or a shopkeeper. Indeed, you need never be at a loss for a house to stop at. There is not a farmer, shopkeeper, nay, nor even a seigneur, or country gentleman, who, on being civilly applied to for accommodation, will not give you the best bed in the house, and every accommodation in his power.

The Canadians seem to have brought the old French politeness with them to this country, and to have handed it down to the present generation. One is more sur

prised to find here courtesy and urbanity, from the little likelihood that such plants would exist, far less flourish, in the wilds of Canada.

During the months of July and August travelling in Canada is very uncomfortable from the great heat of the weather. The thermometer generally shews near 80 degrees: however, where the occasion is very urgent, the inconvenience is not so great as to prevent you. In September the heat is more moderate, and travelling becomes pleasant.

From Quebec to Montreal the distance is about 180 miles. You may either hire a calesh to go the whole way, or take a calesh from post-house to post-house. If you proceed direct, they generally make 24 posts; and you get into Montreal on the morning of the third day, without travelling in the night time. The usual charge for posting is fifteen pence a league, which is much cheaper than posting in England. Indeed, it ought to be so, considering the nature of the vehicle, and your having only one horse; besides, hay and corn are much

cheaper here than in England, and there is no post-horse duty.

In the course of the journey to Montreal you are now and then tempted to stop, or to go a little out of your way, for the purpose of seeing a few places of note. You behold, every where, fine interesting scenery; the road runs the whole way along the river St. Lawrence; its banks and islands vary their appearance every hour, and keep the mind continually occupied and amused.

The road differs from all others I have seen, in this, that it may be said to be almost a continued street; one house succeeds another so quickly, that I believe I may safely say there is not a mile without one. Except the town of Trois rivieres (Three rivers), you have scarcely any place that deserves the name of a town: but every parish church has a village in its neighbourhood; and of these there are, between Quebec and Montreal, upwards of twenty. In these little villages we see the beginnings of, perhaps, large county towns; for here the parishes contain as

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