of Loup Fork of the Platte, and of the country between White river and l'Eau qui Court, for the purpose of seeking good communication between Fort Laramie and the Missouri river. Routes from Fort Laramie to the Yellowstone, and of the country around and between the forks of the Shyenne, deserve examination. The future necessities of Indian warfare will undoubtedly render information in this territory of the last degree valuable.

Accompanying this report is a map of a portion of the Dacota country, on a scale of 1 to 600,000. It embraces all the explorations within the limits compassed by it, including those of Major Long, J. N. Nicollet, Captain Fremont and Captain Stansbury. The sketches by Lieutenant Curtis of the route from Fort Pierre to the mouth of White river, and of Mr. P. Carrey, from Fort St. Vrain to Fort Laramie, were made with a pocket compass, and estimated distances— those made by myself, are with prismatic compass and odometer measurements of distance. Barometer observations were taken on the route from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny, and thence to Fort Laramie; the observations and results are appended to this report. A barometric profile of the route from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny is also given. From not getting my instruments in time, I was unable to make any astronomical observations. The latitude of Fort Pierre is taken from Nicollet, that of Fort Kearny, and the latitude and longitude of Fort Laramie, are taken from Captain Stansbury. The longitude of Fort Pierre and Fort Kearny are taken from the general map. which I compiled in the office of the Pacific Railroad Exploration, and are the result of comparison of several determinations.

The longitude of no point on this map, distant from the boundary of the States, can be considered certain within 5 to 10 miles. The surveys with the compass and odometer were very carefully made.

I also present another map on a scale of 1 to 300,000, giving the location of the different bands of Indians, and such other information as I was enabled to obtain from the hunters and trappers. Though it is not reliable where surveys have not been made, still it is the best that our present knowledge will permit. To the services of Mr. Paul Carrey, who accompanied me in the hazardous journey from For. Pierre to Fort Kearny, I am much indebted, and also to Lieutenant Curtis, who furnished me with the sketch from Fort Pierre to the mouth of White river, and to Lieutenant Balch for his voluntary assistance on the route from Fort Laramie to Fort Pierre.

For information about portions of the country I have not visited. I had the benefit of frequent consultation with Colon Campbell, Michael Desomet, Jean Lefebre, James Boldeaux, Joseph Jewit. James Baker, Dr. Hayden, Mr. Galpin, Henry Goulet, Alexander Culbertstone, and others, whose statements I have endeavored to combine.

To Mr. J. Hudson Snowden, who assisted me in the meteorological observations, and in working out the results, nearly all the merit is due which they may possess. These observations and results, with notes on the weather on all the routes travelled, are annexed to this report, under the head of meteorology.

A number of skins of birds were collected, among which were the

western rough legged hawk, (Archibutes ferrugineus,) from the Teton or Bad river, in longitude 102°, and the white-headed avoset, (Recurvirostra occidentalus,) from the north fork of the Platte, in longitude 103°. The first of these has hitherto only been found near the Pacific coast; and the latter has been considered as peculiar to the regions west of the Rocky mountains; its occurrence in New Mexico, near Santa Fé, is recorded in Captain Stansbury's report as something re

markable.

It is, perhaps, proper to allude here to the journey performed from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny, since nearly all the knowledge I have gained, and whatever service I may have rendered, resulted immediately from it.

When I was preparing for the undertaking, and had secured a party of six persons, exclusive of Mr. Carrey and myself, I was counselled most earnestly by my brother officers not to make it, and the commanding officer at Fort Pierre thought seriously of interposing his authority as my military superior to prevent so "rash" an attempt, which presented to him nothing but a prospect of my certain destruction. The route was known to lead through the country of the Brulés, (supposed to be our worst enemies,) and nothing was known as to their position or intention. We would, also, it was said, meet the Poncas and Pawnees, and neither would hesitate to rob, or even "wipe out" a party as small as mine, well knowing the offence would be charged upon the Brulés. Moreover, much of the route was. wholly unknown and untravelled, and there was no estimating the obstacles and delays we might encounter. My intention, however, had not been formed without due consideration of these things, and careful conversation with the men of the country. The weather was as yet too warm, it being the first of August, for the war parties to have formed, and it was the season for making "sweet corn, so that the Indians would likely be thus engaged. The party was made up of the most experienced prairie men, four of them being half-breed Dacotas, and we were well armed; we were determined to be constantly on our guard, and to travel in the night if we came in the vicinity of an enemy; no fire was to be lighted at night, nor tent pitched. Mr. Galpin, of the Fur Company, assured me he did not believe I would meet an Indian, and the result verified his prediction. We saw fresh trails of the Poncas on l'Eau qui Court, and of the Brulés in the Sand Hills, and some deserted Pawnee camps on Loup Fork, but no Indians. We performed the journey in fifteen days.

I was thus enabled to carry out the instructions under which I had gone to Fort Pierre to participate in the campaign under General Harney, and perform the duties required of me as topographical engineer of the expedition.

I hope this explanation will free me from any charge of having acted with rashness or imprudence.

The general conclusions which I have drawn from my own observations and studies (though I may not have fully demonstrated them) are, that the portion of Nebraska (which I have visited) lying north of White river is mostly of a clay formation, and that south of it is mainly of sand; that but a small portion of it is susceptible of culti

vation west of the 97th meridian; that the Territory is occupied by powerful tribes of roving savages, and is only adapted to a mode of life such as theirs; that it must long remain an Indian country; that the Indians should be made to feel the power of the United States; that the military posts, in consequence, should contemplate permanency; that Forts Laramie and Pierre are the most important positions yet occupied; that the latter can always be supplied by steamboats on the Missouri; that the former must be supplied by way of the valley of the Platte; that a great deal yet remains to be learned of this vast territory; and that it is of the utmost importance to acquire a thorough knowledge of it without delay.

I have the honor, sir, to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant,
G. K. WARREN,
Lieutenant Topographical Engineers.

Brevet Brig. Gen. W. F. HARNEY,
U. S. army, commanding Sioux expedition.

APPENDIX A.

DETAILS OF ROUTES.

Latitude, longitude, altitude, and magnetic declination.

Description of route from Fort Pierre to Fort Kearny.

NOTES.

Distance from

Fort Pierre.

Fort Pierre, situated on a high bottom land on the right bank
of the Missouri river-grass very scanty, there having been .
no spring rain. Left Fort Pierre, August 8, 1855.
Road is over the bottom land-a dark, sticky, clay soil, with sage
growing upon it, for two miles; then crosses a high, nar-
row, dark, clay ridge to Bad river, at a good ford, with
rocky bottom. When flooded, must be ferried, 4 miles -

41

Distance from

Bad river-Wakpa Shicha-is sometimes called Little Missouri, sometimes Teton riverwood and grass fine.

Fort Pierre.

August 9.-Road over high rolling prairie; crosses the sources of Antelope river and Cedar river, to east branch of Medicine river. After passing the divide of Bad river, soil good, with fine grass. These streams in dry times generally contain water in holes, and have small cottonwood and willow on their banks, furnishing fuel. They are from 10 to 20 feet wide, and their banks from 4 to 5 feet high. When occupied with running water, bed will be found muddy, and should be crossed carefully. From Bad river to Antelope river, 9 miles

Thence to Cedar creek, 9 miles

Thence to East branch of Medicine river, 10 miles
August 10.-Crossed Medicine river just below the forks, saw
here a fresh track of a buffalo bull, 2 miles

About 5 miles further on we gain the divide between Medicine
and White rivers-soil is now rather poor, and the ridge
contains some small lake beds, which have water in the
spring season

From this ridge, looking south, the whole horizon south of White river is occupied with high broken prairie ridges and peaks. We keep on this high lake ridge about 4 miles, and descend a line of bluffs, along the foot of which are the sources of the side branches of White river; thence to White river, 8 miles

The road to-day was good-grass rather thin, and no wood nor

water.

August 11.-White river-Mankisita W.-High from recent rain, but falling. Spent the day examining up and down the stream, and forded it in the afternoon. This ford is a fair one, with rocky bottom, but it must be carefully examined on foot before crossing, and every animal should be led or ridden over, as the least wandering from the proper course may mire it inextricably. The stream is now 480 feet wide, water muddy, of a white color, 1 to 3 feet deep, its immediate banks some 5 feet higher. We forded it at the highest stage of water practicable, if higher it must be ferried. The valley is about one mile wide, and nearly all overflowed in freshets. The bluffs are 100 feet high, and loaded wagons could ascend and descend without difficulty. Fine cottonwood of large size grows on the banks, though much thinned out by the Indians. Grass grows luxuriantly, and elk, deer, and antelope may be found in limited numbers. About 20 miles above this ford are the forks.

August 12.-Road over slightly rolling prairie. In about 21 miles pass near Oak creek; thence 8 miles to small branch of Two-tail creek, 11 miles

133

231

331

35

401

521

631

Distance from
Fort Pierre.

Here wood for fuel, and good grass; continuing on with Twotail creek 1 to 2 miles east, over good route, to head of this stream, 9 miles

At this place the stream is 15 to 20 feet wide, water in holes,
bank 5 to 10 feet feet high, bottom generally sandy, grass
good in spots, cottonwood, cak, and willow, good size.
Near here is a large prairie-dog village. They have thus
far been numerous, but these were the last we saw till we
reached the Platte river. The soil is now becoming sandy.
High table-land ridges were about 5 miles to the west, said
to have springs at their base, and here Two-tail creek has
its source.

August 13.-Route good to a head branch of Dog's Ears creek,
14 miles
Here clear spring water in considerable quantity, good grass,
but no wood; some trees flourish 2 to 3 miles further down.
The soil has now become exceedingly sandy, but generally
covered with grass. On the ridges a soft calcareous sand-
stone crops out, and we are now in the region that gives
character to the distant view to be had from the northern
divide of White river. These ridges have a general south-
east direction.

The Dog's Ears hills, (Les Buttes des Oreilles de Chien,) two
small prominent hills of this sandstone formation, lie about
two miles to the east of us, and have served as a landmark
since leaving White river. We now cross an easy divide,
and enter the basin of White lake, a clear, beautiful little
sheet of water, much resorted to by the Indians. The
basin is very sandy, but covered with vegetation, and here
we first meet with the sand cherry, the fruit being as large
as the ordinary black cherry, which it resembles in appear-
ance, but is not quite so sweet to the taste. The shrub
when full grown, is 6 to 18 inches high, and so slender
that its fruit bends it to the ground. Turtle hill, (Keya
Paha,) of the same formation as the Dog's Ears, crowned
with a few scattering pine trees, now serves as a landmark,
toward which you proceed over rolling, grass-covered sand
prairie, to Turtle Hill creek, 14 miles
This is a beautiful stream of clear water, about twenty yards
wide, which, flowing over a sandy bottom, renders it easy
to ford; the immediate banks are three to four feet high.
Large and magnificent cottonwood grows on its banks, but
the trees merely fringe the stream. Wild plums and cher-
ries abound; the grass is excellent, and a small portion of
its valley could be used for raising corn. This river is a
favorite resort for the Indians, and those who live on the
Missouri, near the mouth of Rapid river, usually course
along it in going to and from the buffalo hunting grounds
to the west; it heads near the source of the south fork of