Ocean SciencesEdward John Long |
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Page 32
... waves ( seiche and tsunami ) . These motions can be found either as " progressive waves " or " standing waves , " or a combination of both . A progressive wave propagates in a for- ward direction . Some components of tidal waves , the ...
... waves ( seiche and tsunami ) . These motions can be found either as " progressive waves " or " standing waves , " or a combination of both . A progressive wave propagates in a for- ward direction . Some components of tidal waves , the ...
Page 33
... wave does not " feel " the bottom . When the depth is smaller than three times the length , the wave motions begin to be in- fluenced by the sea bottom . The particle path tends to be eliptical . The wave length and wave celerity ...
... wave does not " feel " the bottom . When the depth is smaller than three times the length , the wave motions begin to be in- fluenced by the sea bottom . The particle path tends to be eliptical . The wave length and wave celerity ...
Page 36
... wave length ( horizontal distance between wave crests ) . Whatever the wind action , the ratio of wave height to the wave length ( called wave steep- ness ) can never exceed one to seven , theoretically ; one to ten , practically ; and ...
... wave length ( horizontal distance between wave crests ) . Whatever the wind action , the ratio of wave height to the wave length ( called wave steep- ness ) can never exceed one to seven , theoretically ; one to ten , practically ; and ...
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abyssal hills abyssal plain additional data available agencies Antarctic arctic Atlantic Bureau charts chemical coastal Committee on Oceanography continental shelf continental slope continuous currents deep depth device Director earth energy equipment established FCST feet fish FISHERIES RESEARCH forecasting geological geophysics Gulf Stream Hydrographic Office important increase instrument Island kilometers knots laboratory land layer magnetic Major Facilities marine animals marine biology marine sciences measurements ment meteorology meters mid-ocean ridge miles Mohorovičić Discontinuity motion NASCO National Naval navigation NAVOCEANO North nuclear ocean bottom oceanographic data Oceanographic Office oceanographic research operations organisms Pacific Pacific Ocean physical oceanography plankton polar pressure problems Program radioactive range ridge rock salinity sample scientific scientists sea surface sea water sediments seismic ships shipworm sonar Soviet species staff stations studies submarine temperature tidal tide tion U. S. Coast U. S. Navy underwater United University Washington wastes weather wind York