Ocean SciencesEdward John Long |
From inside the book
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Page 32
... wind waves ) —are standing waves . This wide survey of sea motion shows how important a master theory on basic ... wind waves ; at the other extreme is the long - wave theory , particularly suitable for tidal waves . However , wind waves ...
... wind waves ) —are standing waves . This wide survey of sea motion shows how important a master theory on basic ... wind waves ; at the other extreme is the long - wave theory , particularly suitable for tidal waves . However , wind waves ...
Page 36
... wind to the water . Actually , the exact mechanism of wave growth under wind action is not yet known . All wave forecasting and hindcasting tech- niques are primarily based on the correlation between wind , fetch , wind dura- tion , and ...
... wind to the water . Actually , the exact mechanism of wave growth under wind action is not yet known . All wave forecasting and hindcasting tech- niques are primarily based on the correlation between wind , fetch , wind dura- tion , and ...
Page 39
... wind intensity . At low wind , the sea surface can be considered as hydrodynamically smooth . But when the wind velocity is greater than ten knots , the sea surface should then be con- sidered as rough . For this reason , and also ...
... wind intensity . At low wind , the sea surface can be considered as hydrodynamically smooth . But when the wind velocity is greater than ten knots , the sea surface should then be con- sidered as rough . For this reason , and also ...
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abyssal hills abyssal plain additional data available agencies Antarctic arctic Atlantic Bureau charts chemical coastal Committee on Oceanography continental shelf continental slope continuous currents deep depth device Director earth energy equipment established FCST feet fish FISHERIES RESEARCH forecasting geological geophysics Gulf Stream Hydrographic Office important increase instrument Island kilometers knots laboratory land layer magnetic Major Facilities marine animals marine biology marine sciences measurements ment meteorology meters mid-ocean ridge miles Mohorovičić Discontinuity motion NASCO National Naval navigation NAVOCEANO North nuclear ocean bottom oceanographic data Oceanographic Office oceanographic research operations organisms Pacific Pacific Ocean physical oceanography plankton polar pressure problems Program radioactive range ridge rock salinity sample scientific scientists sea surface sea water sediments seismic ships shipworm sonar Soviet species staff stations studies submarine temperature tidal tide tion U. S. Coast U. S. Navy underwater United University Washington wastes weather wind York