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prevailed, and the assembled masses joined with patriotic feeling in veneration for the great founder of the Russian Empire.

I have been present at many religious ceremonies in many parts of Europe. I have heard the impressive chant of the "Miserere" at St. Peter's at Rome, and the High Mass at the Cathedral at Milan, but I have never heard anything grander, more solemn, or more touching than the funeral service of the Orthodox Greek Church.

There is no music-no organ-in the service of the Greek Church. The deep tones of the Greek priesthood supply its place, and they produce an indescribable effect of solemnity and reverence. I have attended Imperial christenings, marriages, and funerals, and they have always imbued me with a deeply religious feeling; and I can well understand the influence which the Orthodox Church exercises on the minds of all classes of the Russian people.

The observances of the Orthodox Church are strictly adhered to by all classes in Russia, high and low. The fasting in Lent is rigidly observed, as also is confession in the Holy Week. The Emperor is the head of the Church, but the "Synod" is the supreme and arbitrary ruler of it. The wealth of the Church is very great, and the chief part of it is enjoyed by the upper hierarchy. The lower clergy, called "Popes," are of a low class, illiterate and miserably paid, and exercise no influence over their flock. This is much to be regretted, for were they of a higher order, better educated and

better paid, they would be more respected, and would be enabled by their example to instil into their parishioners those principles of religion, of moral duty, and of probity, which are the foundation of a nation's greatness and prosperity.

The Russians have many notable customs, which have been handed down from the earliest times.

There is one which is the expression of a religious benediction. On Easter Sunday everyone, high and low, on meeting, exchanges the glorious announcement, "Christos voskrés" ("Christ is risen ").

On an Easter Sunday the Emperor Nicholas, on leaving his apartment, addressed this customary phrase to the "sentinel" on duty, who replied, "So they say, sire." The Emperor, astonished at this reply, inquired what it meant, and learnt that the sentinel was a Jew. He gave orders thereupon that no Jew was to be henceforth on duty at the Winter Palace on Easter Sunday.

The Court is

It has some

Before closing this chapter I must briefly refer to the Court and Society at St. Petersburg. very brilliant and admirably maintained. thing of an Oriental grandeur. The Court balls, with the romantic appearance of the Circassian Guard-the brilliant variety of uniforms-the Oriental costumes of the " negroes" posted at the various doors-the picturesque appearance of the Cossacks-the magnificence of the ladies' toilettes (the perfection of a certain Mr. Worth) and the splendour of their jewels (especially turquoises, diamonds, and sapphires)-and the stately rooms of the Winter Palace, lit with thousands of wax

candles, are unsurpassed in beauty and splendour at any Court where I have resided.

The guests are received by their Majesties with that grace and courtesy which at once gratifies and sets them at ease, and there are no fêtes more enjoyable than those at the Winter Palace.

There is one special fête, called "Le Bal des Palmiers," where the supper, in a salon transformed into a Winter Garden, is served at round tables encircling each palm-tree. These palm-trees are brought on each occasion from the conservatories at Zarsko-Séloe, and I was told that they require three years to recover from the exposure they undergo in one night's decoration.

During the ball there was a tea-room for the Emperor and Empress and the Imperial family, to which the Ambassadors were invited. It was in that part of the palace which the Empress Catherine inhabited, and is said to have been the scene of her gaieties.

Society at St. Petersburg was very select and exclusive very distinguée and agreeable. The Russian ladies are affable, prepossessing, and very attractive by their manners and complete absence of affectation. I found on all occasions on the part of the Russians an anxiety to be serviceable to strangers, and an innate goodnature and friendliness. If they have any failings (and we all have), they show great tact in concealing them. They are most hospitable to strangers, and always ready to do them a kind service. I have many friends in Russia, of whom I shall always retain a pleasing reminiscence, and to whom I am truly attached.

CHAPTER II.

Peaceful State of 1872--Rising Discontent in Christian Provinces of TurkeyVisit to St. Petersburg of Sir Moses Montefiore-His Reception by the Emperor-General Ignatieff-Visit of the Archduke William of AustriaVisit of Emperor of Russia to Emperor of Germany at Berlin to meet Emperor of Austria-Motives of Emperor of Germany in Wishing for Presence of Emperor of Russia-Complete Reconciliation between Emperors of Austria and Russia-Probable Subjects of Deliberation between the Three Emperors-Success of Count Andrassy-Dinner at Governor of Moscow on Emperor's Fête Day - General Kaufmann - Object of his Visit to St. Petersburg-Disorders on the Russo-Chinese FrontierOccupation of Kuldja by Russia-Apathy and Weakness of China-Arrival of General Kaufmann-Negotiations for Delimitation of Afghan FrontierFinal Arrangement and Hopeful Results from It-Count Schouvaloff's Mission to London-Conversation with him on his Return-Death of the Grand Duchess Helen.

one of
of peace and

THE year 1872 commenced as calmness. Prince Gortschakoff's last words to me when I took leave of him, on his departure for Wilbad on the 20th of July, were-" Qu'il ne laissait pas un seul nuage à l'horizon politique."

France, under the sagacious rule of M. Thiers, was recovering from the severe losses she had sustained by the late war, and he had made satisfactory arrangements (to which I have previously alluded), without any appeal to extraneous aid, to pay the war indemnity, and thereby to liberate the country from the foreign occupation within the period fixed by her treaty engagements.

M. Thiers, whatever may have been his personal

feelings or his monarchical tendencies, soon perceived that the Republican form of government was the only one then possible for France, or, as he himself said, "it was the one which most united the various political parties of the French nation."

At this time there was no political question of importance engaging the attention of the European Cabinets, and there was an anxious wish on the part of all to preserve the existing harmony and peace of Europe. The religious dissensions of Greeks and Armenian Catholics, and of the Greek Patriarch with the Bulgarian Church, were not likely to lead to anything serious. The quarrels among the Christian subjects of Turkey rather tended to strengthen than to weaken the Porte. They were only formidable when united against the Turk. But there was a growing discontent in Servia and the Christian provinces of Northern Turkey-the growth of seeds sown by political agitators and Panslavist leaders-which augured ill for the continued peace and tranquillity of the East, and foreboded troubles at no distant date.

In July, 1872, Sir Moses Montefiore paid a visit to St. Petersburg, with the object of appealing to the Emperor and the Imperial Government in behalf of his co-religionists. I obtained for him an audience of the Emperor. His Majesty was very gracious to him. I was told that he was much taken with his patriarchal appearance and his benevolent expression, and that His Majesty felt great admiration for an old man bordering on ninety having undertaken, solely for a philanthropic

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