bottoms. The jacket should be cut long enough to cover the seat well. Plain sleeve, moderately wide, with a button and hole at the hand. A "patch" pocket at front of each skirt, and a "ticket" pocket on right forepart, with a half-circular flap. Edges turned in and swelled. The choice of pattern in the new coatings for the season, offers a favourable opportunity for selection, as there is no restraint put upon the taste or style.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN DIAGRAM.
PLATES 1806 AND 1807.
Diagrams 1, 6, 9, and 11, are the pattern of a new form of " Norfolk " jacket, sent us by a correspondent, and which, for the novelty in style and arrangement, we have illustrated on one of the plates issued with the present number of our work. A "box" plait is formed at the centre of the back, and one at the bottom of each side-seam.
Diagrams 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 12, and 15, are the pattern of the postillion's jacket illustrated this month.
Diagrams 5, 10, 13, 14, and 16 to 19 inclusive, are the pattern of the most fashionable style of lady's riding-habit and train for the present season, and corresponds with the style illustrated on the plate we publish, as usual, at this period of the year. The back is cut to a moderate width across to the backscye, which is rather deeper now. The waist is increased in length. We have produced the forepart with two plaits under the bosom, as the effect is decidedly improved by this plan. The tops of the plaits are low. The forepart is drafted large enough to admit of it being fastened by buttons and holes. Diagram 10, is the pattern of the jacket-skirt, which is cut long enough to reach to the front-edge of the forepart, and is sewn on easy. The back-skirt may be cut plain with a regular plait, or with either a banyan" or a "box" plait at the centre. The train is cut to a different shape to that we gave last year. The top-side (diagram 18) is cut longer at the right side-seam, and held on in making up, to give ease for the position of the body when in the
saddle. It is also cut with more round than allowed on to the under-side. An opening for a pocket is cut in the under-side near to the left side-seam, and the edge faced with cloth. The train is usually cut about nine or ten inches longer than the length from the waist to the ankle. The top-side is sewn on to the band (diagram 13), the curved edge being the upper edge. A "box" plait, about five or six inches wide, is formed at the middle of the under-side of the train (diagram 19), but the upper half is plain. When a lady-as in the case, sometimes, of delicate health-rides alternately on each side of the horse, both side-seams then of the top-side of the train must be cut alike, and held on, and both side-seams of the under-side must be cut with the same quantity of round.
MAY.-On Disproportion, continued-On Trouser-Cutting,
by John Anderson-Dress Regulations for the Army:
Rifle Regiments, West India Regiments, and Brigade
Depôts-Military Chaplains, New Pattern Surplice-
Volunteer Uniform, Total Number of Regiments using
certain Colours-Article by "Alpha" on Papers read at
Foremen -Tailors' Societies - Ladies' Riding-Habits-
Evening-Dress-Morning-Coat-Patterns of Dress-Coat,
Morning-Coat-Illustration of Trousers, by J. Anderson
-Old Styles with New Names-Merchant Tailors' Ex-
change of Philadelphia.
JUNE.-Benevolent Institution of Journeyman-Tailors,
Annual Dinner-On Trouser-Cutting, by J. Anderson,
continued-On Disproportion, continued-Dress Regu-
lations for the Army: Royal Military College at Sand-
hurst, Infantry Militia, Control Department-Gentlemen
Jockeys' Dress-Uniform of Eton College-Morning-
Coat-Patterns of Two Pairs of Trousers, large size-
Morning-Coat-Illustrations of J. Anderson's Remarks,
and Morning-Waistcoat.
JULY.-Philadelphia Exhibition-Philanthropic Society of
Master-Tailors of Paris - Riding Trousers, by "S.;"
Letter by "Simplex "-New Waterproof Fabric-Port-
able Wardrobe-Antiquity of the Blouse-Dress Regu-
lations for the Army: Deputy-Controller, Assistant-
Controller, Commissary, &c.-Uniform of Adjutants —
Aides-de-Camp to Commander-in-Chief-Patterns: High
and Low Shouldered Figures, Disproportion, Lounge-
Jacket, Morning-Trousers, Riding-Trousers-On Dis-
proportion, continued-Plates: Summer Frock-Coat,
Morning-Coat, Lounge Jackets, Boy's Sailor's Dress-
Perfection in Cutting.
AUGUST.-Letter by John Anderson-On Disproportion,
continued-Dress Regulations for the Army: Medical
Department-Plates of Lady's Jacket, Shooting-Dress,
and Yachting-Dress, The Deer-Stalker - Patterns:
Ladies' Jackets, Riding-Habit Train, and Shooting-
Jacket.
SEPTEMBER.-On Disproportion, continued-Dress Regu-
lations for the Army: Medical Department, continued;
Chaplains and Veterinary Staff - Military Decorations
and Medals-Trouser Bottoms-"Report of Fashion "-
Journeyman-Tailors' Benevolent Institution - Frock-
Coats, Frock Great-Coats, Children's Dress, illustrated
-Patterns: Frock-Coat, Frock Great-Coat, and illus-
trating Disproportions and Trouser Bottoms.
OCTOBER-J. Anderson on Trouser-Cutting, continued-
Dress Regulations for the Army: Field-Marshals, Gene-
ral Officers, and Colonels on the Staff-On Dispropor-
tion: Letters by "Tymon" and "Old Subscriber "-
Improvement in Shooting Costume - Page's Dress-
Lady's Frock-Coat and Over-Coat, illustrated-Pat-
terns: Lady's Frock-Coat, Double-breasted Chester-
field, and Two Pairs of Trousers, and illustrating Dis-
proportion.
NOVEMBER.-New Uniform for Deputy-Lieutenants, with
coloured plate-J. Anderson on Trouser-Cutting-Dress
Regulations for the Army: General, Divisional, and
Brigade Staff-Militia Artillery-On Disproportion, con-
tinued-Ladies' Riding-Trousers, by "A Victorian "-
Letter by "Distance," with Two Trouser Patterns-
Victorian Foreman-Tailors' Society-Agency Office for
Tailors' Foremen-City of London Society of Practical
Tailors-Patterns: Two Pairs of Trousers, Single-
breasted Morning-Coat, Illustrations of J. Anderson's
Remarks, Disproportion, and Double-breasted Waist-
coat-Plates: Lady's Cloth Dress, Hunt Dress, and
Over-Coat for Little Boy.
DECEMBER.-J. Anderson on Trouser-Cutting, continued
-New Uniform for Lord Lieutenants-Patterns: Dress-
Coat, Details of Deputy-Lieutenant's Dress; Breeches
and Gaiters for Groom, by "B. C.;" Lady's Riding-
Trousers, by "A Victorian;" Double-breasted Waistcoat,
French Style; System for Lady's Riding-Trousers, by
"A Victorian;" Letter by "B. C."-Plates: Evening-
Dress, Ladies' Over-Coats, New Uniform for Deputy-
Lieutenants (coloured)-" Employers' and Workmen's
Act of Parliament:" New Act on Conspiracy and for
Protection of Property.
JANUARY.-Graduation and Graduated Measures, new make
-System for Flannel Waistcoats, by "S. T."-Letters
from "Interested," with Pattern; "B. C.," and "Mark-
Well"-War Office: Alterations in Rank of Officers of
Control Department-J. Anderson on Trouser-Cutting-
City of London Society of Practical Tailors' Dinner-
Plates New Style of Over-Coat, Lady's Outdoor Jacket,
and Ulster-Patterns: Footman's Breeches and Gaiters,
Lady's Riding-Trousers; New Style Over-Coat, Trousers,
and Pantaloons, by J. Anderson.
FEBRUARY.-Alterations in Uniform of Royal Artillery-
J. Anderson on Trouser-Cutting, continued-R. Cooling,
with Pattern of Riding-Trousers-Little Boy's Dress,
by "Alpha"-Letter by "X."-Dress Regulations for
the Army: Staff, continued-Rugby School Dress, with
Plate-Singular Custom of the City Corporation-Plates
of Lady's Polonaise and Morning-Coat-Patterns: Polo-
naise, Pair of Trousers, by Cooling, and illustrating Mr.
Anderson's Remarks-"Business," by James Platt-
Naval Uniforms.
MARCH.-Letters by " Mark-Well," and by "S."-Altera-
tion in Uniform, Commissariat, Transport, and Ord-
nance Store Departments-Dress Regulations for the
Army: Aides de Camp-"Report of Fashion "-Pat-
terns: Double-breasted Frock-Coat, Trousers, Single-
breasted Frock-Coat, by "S.;" Trousers, by "Mark-
Well"-Plates: Frock-Coat, Morning-Coat and Ladies'
Jackets-Fancy Vestings-Professor Leone Levi on
"Work and Wages."
APRIL.-Postillion's Dress, with Coloured Plate-Dress
Regulations for the Army: Equerries to the Queen and
Royal Family, &c.-London Foreman-Tailors' Mutual
Association, Anniversary Dinner-Plates: New Styles
of Ladies' Riding-Habits, "Norfolk" Jacket, and Rink
Costume New Court Dress for Civilians - Journey-
man-Tailors' Benevolent Institution-Patterns: "Nor-
folk" Jacket, Postillion's Jacket, and Lady's Riding-
Habit.
|