No. 362.

ON CROOKEDNESS AND STRAIGHTNESS OF FOREPART.

Simultaneously with our publishing, in the very early numbers of our work, a "Self-Varying System of Cutting," we devoted a few chapters to a Consideration of what constituted the "Crookedness or Straightness of Forepart," and endeavoured to demonstrate our theory as to the method for determining this point. It was the very undecided opinion at that time existing as to the manner of testing the degree of straightness or crookedness, which induced us to investigate the subject, and lay down a principle by which this might be decided. As a large number of our patrons were too young and too inexperienced, at the time to which we refer, to be able to comprehend this intricate question, to them, and to our still younger readers, we address the following remarks:

The crookedness and straightness of cut would appear to comprehend the entire science of the trade, since there is scarcely a deviation that can be made

in any point of the forepart, without immediately affecting the degree of straightness; and it is because these consequences are not sufficiently studied, that we purpose affording some illustrations of them. It will, therefore, be understood, that the object of the present article is not to determine any exact standard of straightness, as on this subject various opinions may be entertained, some cutters preferring a crooked, others a straight, forepart; while each may be equally successful in practice. For argument's sake, we take any standard of straightness as suited for the proportionate figure, and, by comparison with this, we notice the difference effected by the variations made to accord with the deviations from the regular shape. There are three points which we wish to bring under consideration

general opinion in the trade is, that the distance across from the top of the back-seam to the shoulderpoint of the forepart determines the straightness, and so, to a certain extent, it does. But that this is not a test will easily be seen by referring to diagram 1, which represents two foreparts of precisely the same degree of straightness, although there is no less than an inch difference in the distance from the top of the back to the shoulder-point, being occasioned by one coat being cut higher in the back than the other; not for any disproportion in the height of neck, but merely as a matter of style.

The correct test of straightness is the distance between any fixed point on the back, such as a (which is one-third of the breast in from the backseam), and the same point when closed at the shoulder-seam. So long as the parallels of these points maintain the same relative distance, the degree of straightness will remain unaltered, whatever variation may be made in the shoulder-point or length of the balance. We wish to direct attention to this observation, as we shall have occasion to allude to the subject presently, when considering what affects the relative position of these points. There is a further test of straightness, which is illustrated by diagram 4. The pattern is here represented as closed, both at the side and shoulder seams, and doubled, so as to lie flat; which plan we have designed as the best method of showing the effects produced by the various deviations made in the forepart, for any kind of disproportion in the shape of the body. In this case, the angle c, formed by the lines c d and cf, will invariably decide the comparative degree of straightness; for, as that angle becomes more acute, so will the forepart be made straighter, whether caused by altering the lines c d or cf; and, on the contrary, the more obtuse or open the angle, the crookeder the forepart. This will be readily seen, by cutting out the full-sized pattern of the diagram 4, since it will be found impossible to vary either of the lines c d, or cf, without immediately causing the points a to approach nearer to, or to expand farther from, one another.

Diagram 12, which is a copy of the same shape as shown on diagram 4, will serve to illustrate the method of drawing it out in full size, in order to test

the effects to which we shall have to allude. From a to c is one-fourth (41). From c to d, one-eighth (2). From a to f, square with a d, one-sixth (3), and to g one-half (9). From b to h, at any distance down, is half an inch less than a third (5), and from h to i, the same distance. A short line is drawn at h, parallel with a b. From g mark the length of waist (17), wherever it intercepts the line at h, and draw the line g h, for the back-seam. Draw a line from c, square with a b, and wherever this intercepts the back-seam at k, will be the point from which to regulate the height of neck, from k to g being in all cases the proportionate height. From d to e, mark 1 inch more than a sixth (4), and to n, two-thirds (12). From d to o, is three-quarters of an inch. From g to l, is 1 inch; and from 1 to m, square with the back-seam, one-sixth (3). From g to r, in continuation of the neck, m g, is one-twelfth (1). A line is drawn from m through ƒ for the shoulder, which may be carried to any width, according to fancy, as shown by the three different widths marked on the diagram. The scye is then formed as indicated. The point p is 1 inch above b. This forepart will be for the same sized waist as breast; 13 inch being allowed for stretching, which is the cause of the distances between b and h, and h and i, being half an inch less than a third. Having made a fullsized diagram, the better plan would be, to prick through on to fresh sheets of paper, and cut two patterns of the back part, and one of the front. It will be understood that the round of the forepart side-seam requires to be added.

(To be continued.)

DRESS REGULATIONS FOR THE ARMY. (NEW EDITION.). (Continued from page 5.)

HUSSARS, FULL DRESS.

Tunic.-Blue cloth, edged all round with gold chain gimp, except the collar, which has 4-inch lace round the top, with the badges of rank, embroidered in silver, at each end. On each side of the breast, six loops of gold chain gimp, with caps and drops, fastening with gold-worked olivets. On each sideseam, a double line of the same gimp, forming three

eyes at the top, passing under a netted cap at the waist, and ending in an Austrian knot, reaching to the bottom of the skirt, with a tracing of gold braid all round the gimp. An Austrian knot of gold chain gimp on the sleeve, reaching to 8 inches from the bottom of the cuff. The skirt rounded off in front, closed behind, and lined with black.

Distinction of Ranks.

Field Officers have figured braiding below the lace on the collar, and on the sleeve, round the Austrian knot; extending to 11 inches from the bottom of the cuff.

Captains, a row of braided eyes on the collar, below the lace, and a tracing of the same round the knot on the sleeve, 9 inches deep.

Lieutenants, a tracing of plain braid only below the lace on the collar, and round the knot on the sleeve, 8 inches deep.

The 3rd Hussars have scarlet cloth collars, and the 13th, buff.

Trousers, &c.-Blue cloth, with two stripes of 3-inch lace, a quarter of an inch apart. Wellington boots, and brass spurs.

Pantaloons, &c., for Mounted Duties.-Blue cloth, with stripes as on trousers. Over-boots, and steel

spurs.

The 11th regiment wear crimson for trousers and pantaloons.

Busby.-Black sable fur, &c., with egret plume. Sword.-Half basket steel hilt, black fish-skin grip, bound with silver wire. Blade, 35 inches long. Scabbard.-Steel.

Sword-Knot.-Gold and crimson cord, with gold

acorn.

Sword-Belt.-Gold lace, 14 inch wide, with slings of same, and tache-slings, half inch wide. Morocco leather lining and edging of the colour of the particular regiment as stated below.

Sabre-tache.-Cloth face; crimson in the 11th and 20th Hussars, buff in the 13th, and scarlet in the other regiments, with 2 inches gold lace all round.

Pouch-Belt.-In the 10th Hussars, of black patent leather, with gilt metal chain ornament; in the other regiments, gold lace 1 inch wide, with Morocco

Frock. As described for officers of Dragoons. Trousers, and Pantaloons and Over-Boots, for Mounted Duties.-The same as in full dress, but steel spurs with trousers instead of brass, and the double stripes to be of white cloth instead of lace, in the 13th, 19th, 20th, and 21st regiments.

Forage-Cap.-Crimson cloth in the 11th Hussars, scarlet in the 15th, and blue in the other regiments, with band of 14-inch gold lace; gold purl button and braided figure on the crown, and a line of gold braid round the crown-seam.

Stable-Jacket.-Blue cloth, with olivets and lace, or cord, according to regimental patterns.

Field Officers wear the badges of their rank, embroidered in silver, on the collar. The 3rd Hussars wear scarlet collars; in the 13th, buff. Mess-Waistcoat.-According to regimental pat

terns.

Sabre-tache.-Black patent leather. Other articles as in full dress.

Cloak and Cape.-Blue cloth of the same pattern as for officers of Dragroons, with crimson lining in the 11th Hussars, and scarlet in the other regiments.

A Surgeon-General to rank as Major-General.
A Deputy Surgeon-General as Colonel.

Surgeon-Major as Major; and, after 20 years' fullpay service, as Surgeon and Surgeon-Major, to rank as Lieutenant-Colonel; but junior of the latter rank. Surgeon to rank as Lieutenant; and, after six years' full-pay service, as Captain.

For full particulars of uniform of officers of the several grades, we refer our readers to the details we published last year in the August number of our work.

As many medical officers of the Army will be benefited by these new regulations, and promoted to higher ranks, the distinctive indications on their present uniforms of such new positions must necessarily be attended to, or new uniforms, according to the revised regulations, be substituted.

The following are the particulars of the difference in the uniforms between the several ranks:

Director-General and Surgeon-General,

after three years' service.

The collar laced round the top and bottom with inch lace. A star at each end. Inch lace on the cuffs. Pointed slash to sleeve with inch lace, and a similar one on the skirt behind. Back-skirts edged with -inch lace.

Two and a half inch lace on trousers. Undress Frock.-Inch braid on cuffs, with figured braiding above and below the braid. Austrian knot at top; braided figure below. Edging of -inch braid, and loops of same width braid at fronts.

Scarlet stripe, 24 inches wide, on undress trousers. Forage-Cap.-2-inch lace.

Surgeon-General under three years' service in that rank, same uniform as Director General, but without the badge on the collar of tunic, or of frock.

Deputy Surgeon-General, after five years' service
in that rank.

Half-inch lace on top of collar, gold Russia braid at bottom, and a row of gold braided eyes between. Crown and star on collar. Pointed cuffs, with two bars of half-inch lace at top; row of gold braided eyes above and below the lace; crow's-foot and eye to lower braid; an Austrian knot at top. Cuff, 8 inches deep to top of lace, 10 inches deep to top of knot.

One inch and three-quarters lace on dress-trousers, and scarlet stripe of same width on undress-trousers. Shell-jacket and mess-waistcoat.

Deputy Surgeon-General, under five years' service.
Same uniform, but a crown only on the collar.

Surgeon-Major.

Star on collar of tunic, or a crown, if possessing the relative rank of Lieutenant-Colonel..

Patrol-jacket instead of frock-coat.

Forage-cap with plain peak, and 12-inch lace.

Surgeon.

The difference in uniform from Surgeon-Major is as follows:

No braided eyes on collar of tunic, and the eyes omitted on the cuff.

After six years' service, a crown and star on the collar of tunic, and two bars of lace on the cuff. Under that period, a crown only, and one bar on the cuff.

Steel scabbard.

No spurs.

No badges on collar of shell-jacket, and the collar of the great-coat not to be lined with velvet.

Your correspondent, "Mark-Well," hailing from Gibraltar, criticizes very strongly, in your January number, my method of arriving at the length of the leg-seam for a lady's riding-trouser, suggests a plan of his own for taking this measure, calls me bashful, corrects my proportions, and sends the measure of a model man. "Mark-Well" can obtain the measure of leg-seam, but not of the thigh. His method, as stated in his letter, is to give the end of the tapemeasure to the lady, to hold in to the crutch, whilst he stoops to her heel. Surely, whilst the lady holds the tape so conveniently, it would be nothing for him, in his "professional and unhesitating manner,” to slip the measure upwards, and take the size of the thigh; of course, "keeping his face turned down, and his eyes purposely averted." Or is he also bashful, but in a lesser degree than myself? I must honestly say that I never heard of the length of leg-seam being taken in this manner, so, of course, I have never tried it, and, most assuredly, never shall.

"Mark-Well" sends his own measure. He is 5 feet 6 inches high, with a leg-seam, 293; with a good muscular development (in the paunch), I presume, as a correct model of the human form divine. I regret that I never heard of your correspondent sooner, as for many years I have been under the impression that the masters in sculpture and painting were the proper authorities to define the correct proportions of the human figure. "Mark-Well" has, however, quite dispelled that fallacy, and it is a piece of great indiscretion, I think, on the part of his stepson to have legs so much longer than " Mark-Well," and so near the proportion given by those old masters, whom he distinctly shows to be wrong.

You have readers in all parts of the world. It

would be desirable if your correspondent could favour them with an illustration of his view of a model man, to afford them the opportunity of judging in what respects the proportions differ from the antique, and what is accepted by old and living artists as their guide.

"Mark-Well" objects to my theories, yet starts one himself, by saying that the thigh is two-thirds of the hips, and states that this is a certainty, while, at the same time, he owns that he cannot take the thigh measure.

I am, dear Sir, yours obediently,
"A VICTORIAN."

Had it not been that we considered our correspondent entitled to the opportunity to vindicate his theory, which our late correspondent, Mr. Boyd-to whose death we referred last month-severely criticised in a recent communication we received from him, we should have hesitated, under the peculiar circumstances, to have published the above letter, as the remarks cannot lead to the result which was naturally hoped for by our correspondent.

We are convinced that this gentleman would be one of the last to make any comment other than in a fair and honourable spirit, on any one differing with him in opinion; and that, rather than offer any remark which might give the slightest pain to the family of his late opponent, he would willingly lie under the false impression which, from "MarkWell's" criticism, our readers might have been led to form from the theory our Victorian correspondent advanced. So soon as the intimation of the death of the late Mr. Boyd reaches our correspondent, he will wish that he had deferred sending his letter, on the counsel, "De mortuis nil nisi bonum."

HARROW SCHOOL DRESS.

On one of the plates issued with the present number, we illustrate the style of dress worn by the junior pupils of the above public school. It is much in the style worn at Eton, and of which we gave an illustration in the June number last year. The jacket is single-breasted, cut straight at the bottom, and about an inch and a half below the natural waist. A bold turn at front, and three buttons and holes.