The Eclectic Repository.

"A gatherer and disposer of other men's stuff."— Wotton.

LADIES' RIDING-TROUSERS.

แ

Melbourne, Victoria.

TO THE EDITOR OF THE GAZETTE OF FASHION." DEAR SIR,

I have the pleasure to send you, by this mail, a few observations upon the subject of Ladies' RidingTrousers, and on the method I employ to arrive at the measures required for drafting them.

In proceeding to produce ladies' riding trousers, the cutter is at the very outset confronted by two serious obstacles to his success. The first is, that he cannot obtain a correct measure; and the other that he cannot either try, or see them tried on. Having thus to work in the dark, he is compelled to rely entirely upon theory, or upon guess-work. Supposing, however, that he has three correct measures-viz., the size of the waist and of the seat, and the length of leg-seam-there would not then be any difficulty in the matter. The first he can take, and he must find some means to arrive at the two others.

In a work on painting, by Haydon, which came under my notice, I met with the following information relative to the proportions of the human figure. The writer states, that the whole figure is divided into four equal lengths. The first starts from the top of the head, and terminates in a line with the armpit; the second reaches to the middle of the body, or to the pubes; the third to just below the knees; and the fourth to the heel. If you take the drawing of a well-proportioned female figure, and divide the whole length as I have described, you will find that the divisions correspond with the proportions I have mentioned.

We have, consequently, arrived at a guide to the principal measures required for our purpose-viz., the length of leg-seam, which corresponds with onehalf of the height of the figure.

The next point to be ascertained is the seatmeasure. Following the same authority upon proportions, and after carefully and thoroughly digesting the information on this subject, it resolves itself into

In

number for June, which is just to your hand, I notice two patterns of trousers drafted for disproportionate figures. Being of opinion that no material difference is required in the shape of trousers for such makes of men, and most certainly believing that the extra quantity allowed by most cutters at the fork and over the stomach is unnecessary, I send for your inspection two patterns which I have drafted for corpulent men. The pattern shown on diagram 1 is drafted to the following measures:Side-seam, 471; leg-seam, 311; waist, 24; thigh, dress side, 161; knee, 111; bottom, 94.

That represented on diagram 10, to the following:-Side-seam, 40; leg-seam, 291; waist, 211; hip-measure, taken for fancy, 23; thigh dress side, 16; knee, 10; bottom, 10.

If any of readers doubt the correctness of your these patterns, I will guarantee to cut a pair of trousers to measure, to fit with ease and comfort, always providing the measures are taken as named, and also to bear the expense of the cost should they prove unsatisfactory.

I am, Sir, yours respectfully,
"DISTANCE."

VICTORIAN FOREMEN-TAILORS' MUTUAL

IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATION.

We have received a notification of the formation of the above Association, whose objects are "to afford an opportunity for the development of ideas on the practice of the trade, to disseminate useful information, the result of the experience of those

members who, by their general practice and long standing, have acquired a larger amount of knowledge than some of their younger members, to discuss the many different modes of cutting, and of making up garments, for mutual improvement, and to converse upon all matters connected with the Tailoring Trade."

The principles on which this society has been established, if efficiently carried out, should produce good results, by the development of the intelligence of its members, through the opportunities afforded, as stated in the prospectus, "by the interchange of ideas on the practice of the trade." It should also recommend itself to the masters, and receive their support, as they would study their own interests in giving it their countenance; for whatever tends to increase the professional knowledge of the cutter, must necessarily benefit the employer.

Diagrams 1 and 10, are referred to in the communication from our distant correspondent, "Distance," and illustrate two forms of trousers drafted by him for exceptional figures, and to show his view of the shape suitable to correspond with the measures he gives in his letter. The trade have had their attention latterly directed to a consideration of the proper shape of trousers to suit corpulent men, and they will have observed that there was as much variety in the form for such figures as are noticed in trousers drafted for what are termed proportionately made men. The deduction would be, giving credit to the contributors for good faith in their statements, that there is no golden plan for producing trousers for any make of man, nor definite shape to suit a certain class of disproportion which. is met with by every practitioner.

Diagrams 2, 4, 5, 7, and 8, are the pattern of a single-breasted morning-coat, as illustrated on one of the plates issued with the present number. It is essentially a winter coat, and the style will be distinguished from the forms recently worn.

Diagrams 3 and 13, illustrate the system of cutting trousers, propounded by our correspondent, Mr. John Anderson, and will be found fully described in that portion of his series of articles which we published in April last.

Diagram 6, shows a plan of altering the forepart of a coat, to obtain the result mentioned in the concluding portion of our article "On Disproportion," which terminates with the present number.

The rules we have laid down are as simple as

could be, consistent with accuracy; and, in our several remarks and directions, we have endeavoured to study the wants of cutters not yet possessed of the knowledge which experience teaches. We make no claim to being gifted with the power to produce an infallible system, as such a wonder has not, in our opinion, ever been seen; nor, with all the progress which science has made, do we believe that it is likely to be realized. The most that any teacher, or propounder, of a system of cutting can possibly achieve is, on the results of his personal experience, to lay down certain rules, which shall be based upon knowledge acquired by actual practice; and from a study of the construction and proportions of the human body, which may be serviceable as a basis. And, having established a standard, lay down certain rules to assist in drafting for exceptional figures. Diagrams 9, 11, and 12, are the pattern of a double-breasted waistcoat for the present season.

LADY'S CLOTII DRESS.

On one of the plates issued with this month's number we have illustrated a lady's indoor dress, made of cloth, and elaborately braided. It is cut short in the waist, and like a habit-body, but with rather more point at front. The neck is sloped off a little at front, and the forepart is fastened by buttons and holes, or by hooks and eyes. The skirt is gored and cut to a proportionate length. The sleeve is easy to the arm all the way to the wrist. The great favour in which braiding is now generally held by ladies, gives a stimulus to the introduction of this elegant style of trimming wherever admissible. The cloth dress illustrated on our plate, is a happy medium for carrying out tasteful designs in narrow braids, more or less rich, according to the wish of the lady. The figure represented is very effective on a rich claret, blue, or brown ground.

On the same plate we give the drawing of a good form of morning-coat corresponding with the pattern in diagram. The skirt is long, and cut full at the top, and the forepart, as shown on the figure, is easy at the waist-seam. Small turn and five buttons and holes at front. Easy sleeve, with moderate cuff, with two buttons and holes, and the opening nearly in the centre of the top-side sleeve, and aslant. Edges turned in and stitched. Flaps at the waist, with pockets under.

HUNT-DRESS.

We have devoted one of our plates to illustrate the most prevailing form of coat, &c., for the above sport; and extract the following particulars from our work, the "Report of Fashion" for the present

season:

"The waist is longer than for the generality of coats, and the skirt longer than we have lately reported. Lapel of a moderate width, square at top, and cut almost to a point at the bottom, rounded at

the centre, and with four holes marked up in it; the bottom one being omitted for want of sufficient width to work it. Collar square at the end, and cut to run off at front, made to button up high in the neck, if required, or for the collar to be turned up. Some trades sew on a small tab, to use when the collar is turned up. The front of the skirt rounded off at the bottom. Wide sleeve, and easy at the hand, with two buttons and holes, and a cuff formed by stitching; opening at the hind-arm-seam. Flaps at the waist, with pockets under, one outside the left breast, with a narrow welt, and one at front of the right forepart. A sandwich pocket aslant at the front of the skirt lining. Scarlet milled beaver or cloth, with gilt fox muzzard button, the hunt button, or a basket pattern. Edges turned in and double-stitched, body and sleeves lined with blue or pink checked or plain flannel, and the front of the skirt interlined with some thin waterproof fabric. The waistcoat is single-breasted, without a collar, to button high up, and rather long and pointed at front. Made of toilanet, striped or spotted, or with a curl on the face. Pearl or covered buttons.

Breeches of leather, elastic, or cord, cut rather loose to the thigh and body, but to fit well from the knee to the bottom. To reach well on to the calf, with five gilt or four-hole pearl buttons at the knee, and leather strings at the bottom. Garter cut on. Fly-front, frog-pockets, no waistbands. A short piece of stocking or chamois leather is usually sewn on to the bottom of the breeches. It is cut to fit to the leg, and is fastened by four or five linen buttons. It is about 6 inches long. The object is to keep the breeches well in their place when on the saddle. The lining of the garter covers the top.

On the third plate we represent a smart style of Over-coat for a little boy; cut like an Ulster, with a belt round the waist, and fastened with a buckle at front. Rather long and full; single-breasted, the holes worked in a fly, and the buttons placed a little distance in from the edge. Small and short turn, the corner rounded. Small cape, rounded off at front. Collar of a medium height and depth, and the end to correspond with the top of lapel. Sleeve rather wide, and plain at the hand. Edges turned in, and stitched a little way in. This style of coat is made up in mixed beavers, milled tweeds, or small checked patterns in stout angolas or cheviots.

On the other figure will be found illustrated one of the present styles of Over-coat, cut in the Chesterfield form. Long, double-breasted, with a broad lapel and five holes, turn to the second. Back moderately broad, and open at the bottom. Full sleeve, and large at the hand, with deep cuff, formed by broad silk braid, same as sewn flat on the edges. Velvet collar, deeper in the stand than lately, and broader in the fall. Pockets across the front of the skirts, without flaps, and one in the left breast. This form of coat is made up in plain, dressed, or fur beaver, in good shades of brown, olive and blue.