CHAPTER XXII

PICNIC AT HANAPEPE FALLS

HANAPEPE FALLS, at the upper end of the delightful valley of that name, has had its praises sounded by Jarvis, Bird, and every tourist who has written on the natural scenery of the Hawaiian Islands. From Koloa a party can visit the falls, spend an hour or two in admiring the wonderful scenery about them, and return the same day.

We were late in getting started that morning. The doctor had to amputate a finger crushed in the mill, and a dozen or more other patients to look after, and we could not think of leaving him behind. Eight o'clock was the hour set for our departure, but nine found us still seated on the lanai, and it was several minutes later before the last basket of lunch had been placed in the carriage, and the last trip made to the store for some article that had been forgotten. At last all preparations were made save making a compromise with Baby Goodhue, who was to be left behind. After many useless efforts to bribe him into staying at home, his parents perpetrated a fraud, by making him believe the whole expedition had fallen

through, and he was induced to go away with his nurse to play.

Then we secretly and hurriedly mounted horses or climbed into carriages, and the gay party started along the broad winding road among picturesque hills. Cane-fields were on every side, and the plume-like tassels from over the hill looked as if an army of knights were waiting to charge upon an enemy. We often met carts drawn by twelve or fourteen longhorned sullen oxen, driven by barefooted Japs.

The little valleys were numerous, and the descent to them so abrupt that they seemed mere canyons cut into the landscape. Fields and long stretches of plain or forest were above, while in the little valleys, not two hundred yards wide, were rice-fields, taro patches, coconuts, and bananas. To stand on the high bluff above and look down into the valleys seemed like gazing upon a miniature world, a land of Liliputians. The first was the Lawai valley, next came Kalahao and Wahiawa, each so different from the other, with scenery so constantly changing that the beholder can never weary in looking upon them.

The last valley we reached was the famous Hanapepe, which no tourist has ever slighted. Our first view on this lovely morning was from a lofty red cliff, from the side which the broad road was cut. The day was brilliant and cool as early June, and the glorious breeze sweeping in from the sea seemed to

inspire all the party with the exuberant spirits of school children.

Before us was the long flume which brings the water from the mountains to the Makaweli plantation. It is an excellent piece of engineering. The fall is only one foot in a thousand, and yet the water sweeps on in one resistless flood, which to the beholder seems to flow uphill.

The carriage was enabled to proceed along the bluff for two or three miles above the valley, when we reached some foothills, which were impassable for any sort of vehicle. The carriage was left here and the remainder of the journey made on horseback. The descent into the valley is very steep. Some rode their horses to the bottom, but others preferred to walk. At a native hut in the valley, horses and saddles were procured for those who had not yet found mounts, and the journey of two hours up the valley to the falls commenced. The scenery was simply sublime-trees, mountains, dashing waters, rivulets, and cascades, with perpendicular bluffs kissing the mild blue sky, and a sweet cool breeze fanning the cheek all the way. We seemed tireless, and the journey was none too long nor difficult. Down steep

hills, over knife-like ridges too narrow to ride in double file, and along ledges of shelving rock, only three or four feet wide, we rode, sometimes at a gallop, but more often at a sober pace, while our necks