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in the Serapis. His health was drunk with Highland honours, and many messages were exchanged between himself and "home." On the afternoon of the same day the Royal party drove out to the Viceregal Lodge at Barrackpur.

The most important ceremony attended by His Royal Highness in India, namely, a Chapter of the Order of the Star of India, at which the Prince acted as High Commissioner, was held on New Year's Day, 1876. His Royal Highness wore a field-marshal's uniform, almost concealed beneath the folds of his sky-blue satin mantle, the train of which was carried by two naval cadets, who wore cocked hats over their powdered wigs, blue satin cloaks, trunk hose, and shoes with rosettes. The Chapter tent was carpeted with cloth of gold with the Royal Arms emblazoned in the centre. An immense number of the Companions of the Order attended, forming a most impressive procession, walking two and two, one half native and the other European. The Begum of Bhopal, the first Knight Grand Commander, had a procession all to herself. She was veiled and swathed in brocades and silks, over which was folded the light blue satin robe of the Order.

The Prince took his seat on the daïs, and after the roll of the Order had been read, each member standing up as his name was called, the Chapter was declared open, and His Royal Highness directed the investiture to proceed. Never had such a gathering been seen in India. Among those present were Lord Napier of Magdala, "Political" Maitland, the Maharajah of Kashmir, and the Rajah of Patiala, who wore the great Sancy diamond in his

turban.

As each investiture took place, seventeen guns were fired, and the secretary proclaimed aloud the titles of the newly-made Knight Grand Commander or Companion as the case might be. The pageant was incomparably splendid, the close of the ceremony being quite as fine as the beginning, for the Knights Grand Cross, the Knights Grand Commanders, and the Companions all formed once more in a procession in the reverse order of their entry.

At the close of the Prince's visit to Calcutta His Royal Highness began his journeys by rail. At Benares he visited the famous Temples, and the Golden Pool, going from thence by steamer to

the old port of Rammagar, where he and his suite were splendidly received by the Maharajah, who presented him with some very costly shawls and brocades, together with what is to an Indian the very highest proof of regard, namely his own walking-stick, a thick staff mounted with gold.

At Lucknow the Prince laid the foundation-stone of a memorial to the natives who fell in the defence of the Residency. On this occasion His Royal Highness took the opportunity of paying a well-deserved tribute to the faithful soldiers of the native army. Some of the veterans were presented to him, and they were not allowed to be hurried by, ragged, squalid, or unclean; indeed, the Prince insisted on exchanging a few words with several of them.

While at Lucknow His Royal Highness took part in a pigsticking expedition, at which Lord Carrington's left collar-bone was broken, and curiously enough, Lord Napier of Magdala met with a precisely similar accident on the same day.

From Delhi the Prince proceeded to Cawnpore, a spot he had been extremely anxious to visit, in common with many less illustrious tourists. His Royal Highness, after a drive to the site of the old cantonments, where the heroic defence took place, made his way to the Memorial Church, where he stopped close to the gateway which no native may pass through. There the Prince alighted, and, with signs of deep emotion, walked to the spot which marks the place of the fatal well. There was deep silence as he read aloud in a low voice the touching words, "To the memory of a great company of Christian people, principally women and children, who were cruelly slaughtered here."

On returning to Delhi the Prince held a levée, attended by hundreds of British officers, at the close of which several notabilities of the native army were presented. The next day a great review was held, Lord Napier of Magdala entertaining the Prince at his own camp. Delhi was illuminated, and no trouble was spared in showing what was once the capital city of India to Her Majesty's Heir-Apparent.

Some interesting hours were spent at Agra, where His Royal Highness went to see the Taj illuminated, the beautiful marble Queen of Sorrow" erected by the Shah Jehan in memory of his

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much-loved wife, Moomtaz i Mahul, who died in childbirth of her eighth child. The Prince was so greatly charmed with the

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beauty of the Taj, lit up by myriad lights, that he would not return to the city till nearly midnight. All through the journeys and expeditions which immediately followed, His Royal Highness could

not forget what he had seen, and before finally leaving the district he paid one more visit to the famous tomb, seeing it this time not illuminated, but by the beautiful full Indian moonlight.

The Prince shot his first tiger on 5th February in the neighbourhood of Jeypur. Then he returned through Lucknow, Cawnpore, and Allahabad. At Jubbulpur His Royal Highness went through the prison, and had some talk with seven Thugs who had been thirty-five years in confinement, and whose life in the first instance had only been spared because they had turned Queen's evidence. The Prince questioned them as to their hideous trade, and one man, a villainous-looking individual, answered proudly, in reply to the question as to how many people he had murdered, "Sixty-seven."

The Prince of Wales and his suite left Bombay for home on 13th March, just seventeen weeks after the Serapis had first dropped anchor in Bombay harbour. During those four months His Royal Highness had travelled close on 8000 miles by land and 2500 miles by sea, and during that time the Prince had become acquainted with more Rajahs than had all the Viceroys who had ever reigned over India, and he had seen more of the country than had any living Englishman.

The intelligence that the Queen was about to assume the title of Empress of India had become known before the Serapis left Bombay, and caused the Prince great gratification. Curiously enough, His Royal Highness met Lord Lytton, who was on his way out to Hindustan to succeed Lord Northbrook as Viceroy, when the Serapis was going through the Suez Canal.

The Royal party spent five days in Egypt. By 6th April Malta was in sight, and the Prince was received there with great enthusiasm, as was also the case at Gibraltar, where His Royal Highness had the pleasure of meeting the Duke of Connaught. From there the Serapis proceeded by easy stages round Spain, the Prince taking the opportunity of visiting Seville, Cordova, Madrid, the Escurial, Lisbon, and Cintra. At Madrid King Alphonso came to meet the Prince at the station, and they drove together to the Palace, going from there to Toledo in order that His Royal Highness might visit the famous manufactory of Toledo blades.

As the Serapis anchored near Yarmouth the Prince of Wales was informed that the Princess and the Royal children had come to meet him on board the Enchantress. His Royal Highness immediately went on board their ship, bringing the Princess and their children back with him a quarter of an hour later on to the Serapis, the Royal party landing an hour afterwards at Plymouth.

It need hardly be pointed out that the Prince of Wales received a very remarkable number of gifts during his tour in India. The cost of a gift made to the Prince of Wales by a native Prince was supposed to be strictly limited to £2000 in value, but in many cases this restriction was evaded by the present being priced at a nominal sum, the real value being anything from £5000 to £30,000. As an actual fact the splendid collection brought home by the Prince, which is his own personal property, is said to be worth half a million sterling.

Some time after his return home His Royal Highness kindly allowed his Indian gifts to be exhibited to the public. They are now scattered over Marlborough House and Sandringham, a considerable portion of them finding a permanent resting-place in the Indian room of Marlborough House. There also are carefully stored away in solid silver cylinders all the addresses received by the Prince during his eventful Indian tour.

The Prince, who takes the very keenest interest in live animals, brought back quite a menagerie with him from India, and the portion of the Serapis assigned to His Royal Highness's pets was for the time being a veritable Zoo, for there were tigers, elephants, ostriches, leopards, birds, ponies, cattle, monkeys, dogs and horses, some of which are still spending a peaceful old age at Sandringham.

There can be no doubt that from a political point of view the Prince's tour was a great success, doing much indirectly to consolidate the British power in India. It is also a curious commentary on the objections raised by the economy party to the visit that no less a sum than £250,000 was spent in London alone by native Princes in buying presents for His Royal Highness.

The principal incident of the voyage home had been a farewell dinner given by the officers of the Serapis to the Prince of Wales and his suite when the vessel was nearing harbour.

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