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THE SCAFFOLDING AND OBSERVATORY ON ST. PAUL'S IN 1848 (see page 256).

felt himself unquiet, depressed, gloomy, apprehen- | that he only comes down to take a walk in the sive, and haunted with thoughts of the stranger. churchyard and get his dinner at the house in the For the last three months he has been conscious of the power of the latter over him. Dr. Arnould adds:"I inquired in what way his power was exercised. He cast on me a look of suspicion, mingled with confidence, took my arm, and after leading me through two or three rooms, and then into the garden, exclaimed, 'It is of no use;

dark alley? Since that fatal interview with the necromancer,' he continued, for such I believe him to be, he is continually dragging me before him on his mirror, and he not only sees me every moment of the day, but he reads all my thoughts, and I have a dreadful consciousness that no action of my life is free from his inspection, and no place

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From a Coty, in the possession of 7. G. Crace, Esq., of the earliest known view of London, taken by Van der Wyngarde for Philip II. of Spain.

can afford me security from his power.' On my replying that the darkness of the night would afford him protection from these machinations, he said, 'I know what you mean, but you are quite mistaken. I have only told you of the mirror; but in some part of the building which we passed in coming away, he showed me what he called a great bell, and I heard sounds which came from it, and which went to it-sounds of laughter, and of anger, and of pain. There was a dreadful confusion of sounds, and as I listened, with wonder and affright, he said, 'This is my organ of hearing; this great bell is in communication with all other bells within the circle of hieroglyphics, by which every word spoken by those under my command is made audible to me.' Seeing me look surprised at him, he said, 'I have not yet told you all, for he practises his spells by hieroglyphics on walls and houses, and wields his power, like a detestable tyrant, as he is, over the minds of those whom he has enchanted, and who are the objects of his constant spite, within the circle of the hieroglyphics.' I asked him what these hieroglyphics were, and how he perceived them. He replied, 'Signs and symbols which you, in your ignorance of their true meaning, have taken for letters and words, and read, as you have thought, "Day and Martin's and Warren's blacking."' 'Oh! that is all nonsense!' 'They are only the mysterious characters which he traces to mark the boundary of his dominion, and by which he prevents all escape from his tremendous power. How have I toiled and laboured to get beyond the limit of his influence! Once I walked for three days and three nights, till I fell down under a wall, exhausted by fatigue, and dropped asleep; but on awakening I saw the dreadful signs before mine eyes, and I felt myself as completely under his infernal spells at the end as at the beginning of my journey.'"

It is probable that this gentleman had actually ascended to the top of St. Paul's, and that impressions there received, being afterwards renewed in his mind when in a state of vivid excitement, in a dream of ecstatic reverie, became so blended with the creations of fancy as to form one mysterious vision, in which the true and the imaginary were afterwards inseparable. In 1855 the fees for seeing St. Paul's completely were 4s. 4d. each person. In 1847 the mere twopences paid to see the forty monuments produced the four vergers the sum of £430 3s. 8d. These exorbitant fees originated in the "stairs'-foot money" started by Jennings, the carpenter, in 1707, as a fund for the injured during the building of the cathedral. The fees now for viewing the entire building amount to 2s. 6d.

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The staff of the cathedral consists of the dean, the precentor, the chancellor, the treasurer, the five archdeacons of London, Middlesex, Essex, Colchester, and St. Albans, thirty major canons prebendaries (four of whom are resident), twelve minor canons, and six vicars-choral, besides the choristers. One of the vicars-choral officiates as organist, and three of the minor canons hold the appointments of sub-dean, librarian, and succentor, or under-precentor.

Three of the most celebrated men connected with St. Paul's in the present century have been Milman, Sydney Smith, and Barham (the author of "Ingoldsby Legends"). Smith and Barham both died in 1845; Dean Milman followed in 1858.

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Of Sydney Smith's connection with St. Paul's we have many interesting records. One of the first things Lord Grey said on entering Downing Street, to a relation who was with him, was, Now I shall be able to do something for Sydney Smith," and shortly after he was appointed by the Premier to a prebendal stall at St. Paul's, in exchange for the one he held at Bristol.

Mr. Cockerell, the architect, and superintendent of St. Paul's Cathedral, in a letter printed in Lady Holland's "Memoir of Sydney Smith," describes the gesta of the witty canon; how his early communications with himself (Mr. C.) and all the officers of the chapter were extremely unpleasant; but when the canon had investigated the matter, and there had been "a little collision," nothing could be more candid and kind than his subsequent treatment. He examined the prices of all the materials used in the repairs of the cathedral-as Portland stone, putty, and white lead; every item was taxed, payments were examined, and nothing new could be undertaken without his survey and personal superintendence. He surveyed the pinnacles and heights of the sacred edifice; and once, when it was feared he might stick fast in a narrow opening of the western towers, he declared that "if there were six inches of space there would be room enough for him." The insurance of the magnificent cathedral, Mr. Cockerell tells us, engaged his early attention; and the fabric was speedily and effectually insured in some of the most substantial offices in London. Not satisfied with this security, he advised the introduction of the mains of the New River into the lower parts of the fabric, and cisterns and movable engines in the roof; and quite justifiable was his joke, that "he would reproduce the Deluge in our cathedral."

He had also the library heated by a stove, so as to be more comfortable to the studious; and the bindings of the books were repaired. Lastly, Mr.

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Sinith materially assisted the progress of a suit in Chancery, by the successful result of which a considerable addition was made to the fabric fund.

It is very gratifying to read these circumstantial records of the practical qualities of Mr. Sydney Smith, as applied to the preservation of our magnificent metropolitan cathedral.

Before we leave Mr. Smith we may record an odd story of Lady B. calling the vergers "virgins." She asked Mr. Smith, one day, if it was true that he walked down St. Paul's with three virgins holding silver pokers before him. He shook his head and looked very grave, and bade her come and see. "Some enemy of the Church," he said, "some Dissenter, had clearly been misleading her."

Let us recapitulate a few of the English poets who have made special allusions to St. Paul's in their writings. Denham says of the restoration of St. Paul's, began by Charles I. :—

"First salutes the place,

Crowned with that sacred pile, so vast, so high,
That whether 'tis a part of earth or sky
Uncertain seems, and may be thought a proud
Aspiring mountain or descending cloud.
Paul's, the late theme of such a muse, whose flight
Has bravely reached and soared above thy height,
Now shalt thou stand, though sword, or time, or fire,
Or zeal more fierce than they, thy fall conspire;
Secure, while thee the best of poets sings,
Preserved from ruin by the best of kings.'

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Byron, in the Tenth Canto of "Don Juan," treats St. Paul's contemptuously-sneering, as was his affectation, at everything, human or divine :

"A mighty mass of brick, and smoke, and shipping,
Dirty and dusky, but as wide as eye

Could reach, with here and there a sail just skipping
In sight, then lost amidst the forestry
Of masts; a wilderness of steeples peeping
On tiptoe through their sea coal canopy;
A huge, dim cupola, like a foolscap crown
On a fool's head--and there is London Town!"

Among other English poets who have sung of St. Paul's, we must not forget Tom Hood, with his delightfully absurd ode, written on the cross, and full of most wise folly :

"The man that pays his pence and goes

Up to thy lofty cross, St. Paul's,
Looks over London's naked nose,

Women and men ;

The world is all beneath his ken;
He sits above the ball,

He seems on Mount Olympus' top,

Among the gods, by Jupiter! and lets drop
His eyes from the empyreal clouds

On mortal crowds.

"Seen from these skies,

How small those emmets in our eyes!

Some carry little sticks, and one

His eggs, to warm them in the sun;

Dear, what a hustle

And bustle!

And there's my aunt! I know her by her waist, So long and thin,

And so pinch'd in,

Just in the pismire taste.

"Oh, what are men! Beings so small That, should I fall,

Upon their little heads, I must Crush them by hundreds into dust. "And what is life and all its ages! There's seven stages!

Turnham Green! Chelsea! Putney! Fulham! Brentford and Kew!

And Tooting, too!

And, oh, what very little nags to pull 'em!
Yet each would seem a horse indeed,

If here at Paul's tip-top we'd got 'em!
Although, like Cinderella's breed,
They're mice at bottom.
Then let me not despise a horse,

Though he looks small from Paul's high cross;
Since he would be, as near the sky,
Fourteen hands high.

"What is this world with London in its lap?

Mogg's map.

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The Thames that ebbs and flows in its broad channel? A tidy kennel!

The bridges stretching from its banks?

Stone planks.

Oh, me! Hence could I read an admonition
To mad Ambition !

But that he would not listen to my call,

Though I should stand upon the cross, and ball!"

We can hardly close our account of St. Paul's without referring to that most beautiful and touching of all London sights, the anniversary of the charity schools on the first Thursday in June. About 8,000 children are generally present, ranged in a vast amphitheatre under the dome. Blake, the true but unrecognised predecessor of Wordsworth, has written an exquisite little poem on the scene, and well it deserves it. Such nosegays of little rosy faces can be seen on no other day. Very grand and overwhelming are the beadles of St. Mary Axe and St. Margaret Moses on this tremendous morning, and no young ensign ever bore his colours prouder than do these good-natured dignitaries their maces, staves, and ponderous badges. In endless ranks pour in the children, clothed in all sorts of quaint dresses. Boys in the kneebreeches of Hogarth's school-days, bearing glit tering pewter badges on their coats; girls in blue and orange, with quaint little mob-caps white as snow, and long white gloves covering all their little See, at a given signal of an extraordinary

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fugleman, how they all rise; at another signal how
they hustle down. Then at last, when the "Old
Hundredth" begins, all the little voices unite as
the blending of many waters. Such fresh, happy
voices, singing with such innocent, heedful tender-
ness as would bring tears to the eyes of even stony-
hearted old Malthus, bring to the most irreligious
thoughts of Him who bade little children come to
Him, and would not have them repulsed.
Blake's poem begins-

"'Twas on a Holy Thursday, their innocent faces clean,
Came children walking two and two, in red and blue and
green;

Grey-headed beadles walked before, with wands as white as

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The hum of multitudes was there, but multitudes of lambs,
Thousands of little boys and girls, raising their innocent hands.
"Now like a mighty wind they raise to heaven the voice of
song,

Or like harmonious thunderings the seats of heaven among ;
Beneath them sit the aged men, wise guardians of the poor;
Then cherish pity, lest you drive an angel from your door."

In 1878-9 the grounds north, south, and east of the Cathedral were laid out as ornamental gardens, with grass-plats and gravel walks; the iron railing which encloses those three sides being at the same time lowered by reducing the height of the wall upon which it stands. These alterations laid bare some fragments of the foundations of the chapter-house, and of St. Faith's on the south of the nave, and also of "Paul's Cross" at the northeast corner of the churchyard. These improvements were effected solely at the cost of the Corporation of London, and the grounds were thrown open to the public in September, 1879.

CHAPTER XXII.

ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD.

St. Paul's Churchyard and Literature-Queen Anne's Statue-Execution of a Jesuit in St Paul's Churchyard-Miracle of the "Face in the Straw"-Wilkinson's Story-Newbery the Bookseller-Paul's Chain-"Cocker "-Chapter House of St. Paul's-St. Paul's Coffee HouseChild's Coffee House and the Clergy-Garrick's Club at the "Queen's Arms," and the Company there-"Sir Benjamin" Figgins-Johnson the Bookseller-Hunter and his Guests-Fuseli-Bonnycastle-Kinnaird-Musical Associations of the Churchyard-Jeremiah Clark and his Works-Handel at Meares' Shop-Young the Violin-maker-The "Castle" Concerts-An Old Advertisement-Wren at the "Goose and Gridiron "-St. Paul's School-Famous Paulines-Pepys visiting his Old School-Milton at St. Paul's.

Falstaff's perils, and here have walked with the ripened certainty of greatness and of fame stirring at his heart.

The ground-plot of the Cathedral is 2 acres 16 perches 70 feet. The western area of the churchyard marks the site of St. Gregory's Church. On the mean statue of Queen Anne scurrilous epigram was once written by some ribald Jacobite, who spoke of the queen

"With her face to the brandy-shop and her back to the church."

THE shape of St. Paul's Churchyard has been compared to that of a bow and a string. The south side is the bow, the north the string. The booksellers overflowing from Fleet Street mustered strong here, till the Fire scared them off to Little Britain, from whence they regurgitated to the Row. At the sign of the "White Greyhound" the first editions of Shakespeare's "Venus and Adonis " and "The Rape of Lucrece," the first-fruits of a great harvest, were published by John Harrison. At the "Flower de Luce" and the "Crown" appeared the Merry Wives of Windsor; at the "Green Dragon," in the same locality, the Merchant of Venice; at the "Fox," Richard II.; at the the old Exchange, Cheapside, and then southwards 'Angel," Richard III.; at the "Gun," Titus Andronicus; and at the "Red Bull," that masterpiece, King Lear. So that in this area near the Row the great poet must have paced with his first proofs in his doublet-pocket, wondering whether he should ever rival Spenser, or become immortal, like Chaucer. Here he must have come smiling over

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The precinct wall of St. Paul's first ran from Ave Maria Lane eastward along Paternoster Row to

to Carter Lane, at the end of which it turned to Ludgate Archway. In the reign of Edward II. the Dean and Chapter, finding the precinct a resort of thieves and courtesans, rebuilt and purified it. Within, at the north-west corner, stood the bishop's palace, beyond which, eastward, was Pardon Churchyard and Becket Chapel, rebuilt with a stately

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