both saw and followed us. They keep to the hills near by, where they can overlook the road, and are sure to pounce upon any small and unprotected party of travellers; for not a week passes without depredations and murders.

July 23d. The valley to-day was more contracted, owing to the proximity of the hills, which in many cases reached the stream, compelling us to cross them. The country grew more picturesque and diversified, exhibiting alternate valleys and gentle hills. In the former were groups of large walnut-trees, whose deep green foliage presented a striking contrast with the lighter and yellowish hue of the cotton-woods, and the brighter green of the willows. The intermediate

It was

spaces between the hills and the stream exhibited a luxuriant growth of grass. But it must be remembered that the enchanting aspect which every thing now wore in this valley does not continue. the rainy season, when vegetation presents its most attractive garb. In a few weeks the daily showers would cease, and the parching sun would dry up every thing but the cacti, which do not seem to be benefited by rain, and the large trees of the valley, which find moisture enough in the earth to sustain them until the rainy season again comes round. The grass then withers and dies, and the stream furnishes barely water enough to supply the immediate wants of the people.

Passed a party of emigrants with nine wagons, each drawn by ten oxen. The men were hardy and good-looking, being just such as are wanted in California. This train, as well as the others we had met,

had more oxen than were required to draw the wagons; but the owners were taking them to market as beef cattle, and found it much easier to yoke them to their wagons than to drive them loose. Some of these wagons drawn by five yoke of cattle did not contain more than five hundred pounds weight, while the capacity of the team would suffice for five or six thousand pounds.

At three o'clock, we encamped in a fine grove of trees near the river, having travelled twenty miles. A heavy rain set in just before we stopped, attended with thunder and lightning.

July 24th. Got an early start this morning. The valley grew still more contracted; in fact for miles there cannot be said to be any valley, the stream simply winding its way among the hills. Eight miles brought us to the old rancho of San Lazaro, where we found an encampment of fifty or sixty emigrants from Arkansas, bound for the land of gold.

Before these people knew who we were, they expressed much surprise at seeing a large and well-organized party going eastward; some exclaiming, when they saw we were Americans, "Holloa, strangers, haven't you mistaken the road-you're going the wrong way-this is the way to Californy!" Similar expressions were made by almost every party we met; but when they found we had been to California, and could give them some information about it, there was no end to their inquiries. All seemed to have their thoughts upon gold; for they invariably asked whether the yield continued as great as at first, what we thought of its holding out, etc., etc.

Several of this party were sick, particularly women and children. On hearing this, I stopped to give Dr. Webb an opportunity to visit and prescribe for them. The Doctor had done the same for other parties which we found were unprovided with medicines, or any of the comforts required in their condition. The constant rains they had been exposed to, with no protection but their wagons, had caused much sickness among them; and it was pitiful to see these poor emaciated and suffering creatures lying beneath the trees, resting a day or two, until they could recover strength enough to proceed.

In my former journey through Sonora, we stopped at San Lazaro, a large deserted hacienda, with extensive orchards and fertile grounds around it. Leaving this, we kept along up the stream, over a rough road, for nine miles, and reached Santa Cruz at eleven o'clock. Travelled distance to-day, seventeen miles.

I sent the train and party a mile beyond the village, to encamp where there was plenty of grass, and where the men would be away from the contaminations of a low Mexican population, miserable, filthy, and poor as this was.

I called on our old friend, Padre Bernardino Pacheco, and took breakfast with him. He had much to relate to us that had transpired since our last visit. The Apaches, he told us, had made several attacks on the people within half a mile of the town, and had carried off many of their mules and cattle, and murdered five of the inhabitants. The last attack was made two weeks before our arrival, when they were pursued by a party of soldiers, in which a Polish officer

in the Mexican service was shot by a rifle ball in his arm, from which wound he was then suffering severely. We also learned that the three men who joined us at Santa Isabel, California, and who left us on the desert at the time Colonel Craig was killed, had reached here about the time of the affray with the Indians. They took part in it, and one of them received a wound.

After a couple of hours spent in the town, I rode forward to our camp, where the tents and wagons had been arranged in a square, for the better protection of the men and animals in case of an attack from the Indians, who, we were told, were constantly prowling about the neighborhood, and watching an opportunity to surprise any party whom they thought unprepared, or to run off any animals not sufficiently guarded.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

SANTA CRUZ TO THE PRESIDIO OF JANOS.

Shoeing moules and repairing wagons at Santa Cruz-Standing guardSad fate of Inez Gonzales-Sickness of the town-Boldness of the Apaches and their constant inroads-Wretched state of the people-Leave Santa Cruz-Country assumes a new aspect-Rio San Pedro-Enter the mountains-Agua Prieta-Prepare for a fight-False alarm-Meet Col. Garcia with Mexican troops-Enter Guadalupe Pass-Wagon upset -Description of the country-A better route suggested-Take the Janos road-More emigrants, and their encounter with a bear-Two human bodies found-Open country-Reach Janos.

July 25th. At Santa Cruz.

At Santa Cruz. Since leaving Fort Yuma, we had had no opportunity to complete the repairs on the wagons, some of which were much injured and had been temporarily patched up with raw hide or otherwise. Besides the iron work to be done on these, many of the mules required shoeing. It was necessary, therefore, that this work should be done here, as we should have no other opportunity until we reached the frontier towns of Janos or Carrelitos in the State of Chihuahua, still nearly two hundred and fifty miles distant. The Guadalupe Pass, which we had twice been through, and with whose difficulties we were well acquainted, was yet before us, besides some very rocky mountain ridges. I therefore deemed it advisa