CHAPTER XXXIX. CHIHUAHUA AND ITS VICINITY. Repairs on wagons-Mr. Flotte and his persecutions-The road infested by Comanche Indians-Guard hired-General Trias-Governor Cordero -A dinner and ball-Ladies of Chihuahua-Dinner to General Trias -Obtain important documents relating to the Boundary-Description of Chihuahua-Causes of its decline-Its mines-The expulsion of the Spaniards-Labors of the Jesuits-Aqueduct―The Cathedral-Mine of Santa Eulalia-Casa de Moneda-Commerce, how carried on-Agricultural products-Alfalfa and its value-Heaps of scoria-Grazing lands-The plateau-Immense herds of cattle-Height of the tableland-Climate-Diminutive dogs. OUR journey of two hundred and seventy miles from El Paso had disabled several wagons, which had now to be repaired. It was also necessary to replace the eleven mules we had lost. I determined to engage here a few additional men as a guard; as we yet had a journey of eight or nine hundred miles before us before we should strike the Rio Grande, the greater portion of which distance, I now learned, was infested with the Comanche Indians. This tribe is ten times more numerous than the Apaches; they are among the finest horsemen in the world, possess many fire-arms, which they know how to use, and go in large bands. They are, therefore, far more to be dreaded than the Apaches, whose range we had now passed. and went to the lake. On tasting the water, to my surprise I found it perfectly sweet, in fact better than that in the spring. It is therefore probable that after the rainy season the lake so fills up that its brackishness is overcome. Its shores, as well as the adjoining plain, are covered with what the Mexicans call tequesquite, or alkaline salt in a state of efflorescence. Brant, ducks, and plover abound in its waters, some few of which we shot. Soon after we encamped, a stray ox was discovered among the mezquit bushes which skirted the base of the hills. We did not hesitate to drive him to camp for the benefit of the party; for we had been living on very poor goat's meat since leaving Guadalupe. This fine beef proved a valuable accession to our stock of provisions; as many could not stomach the meat of a poor goat, after he had been driven twenty or thirty miles. October 20th. We continued along the shores of the lake for fourteen or fifteen miles, through a plain covered with grass. This plain was ten or twelve miles wide, bounded on the east by a range of hills, and on the west by rugged mountains. On the opposite side of the lake appeared a hacienda amid a grove of cotton-woods-a beautiful spot, which might compare with the highly cultivated grounds of a European nobleman; but the mark of ruin was upon it—the Apaches had driven away its occupants, and it was fast crumbling to decay. Twenty miles brought us to El Peñol, a large hacienda, near which a herd of cattle was grazing. There did not appear to be any land under cultivation here: VOL. II.-27 CHAPTER XXXIX. CHIHUAHUA AND ITS VICINITY. Repairs on wagons-Mr. Flotte and his persecutions-The road infested by Comanche Indians-Guard hired-General Trias-Governor Cordero -A dinner and ball-Ladies of Chihuahua-Dinner to General Trias -Obtain important documents relating to the Boundary-Description of Chihuahua-Causes of its decline-Its mines-The expulsion of the Spaniards-Labors of the Jesuits-Aqueduct-The Cathedral-Mine of Santa Eulalia-Casa de Moneda-Commerce, how carried on-Agricultural products-Alfalfa and its value-Heaps of scoria-Grazing lands-The plateau-Immense herds of cattle-Height of the tableland-Climate- Diminutive dogs. OUR journey of two hundred and seventy miles from El Paso had disabled several wagons, which had now to be repaired. It was also necessary to replace the eleven mules we had lost. I determined to engage here a few additional men as a guard; as we yet had a journey of eight or nine hundred miles before us before we should strike the Rio Grande, the greater portion of which distance, I now learned, was infested with the Comanche Indians. This tribe is ten times more numerous than the Apaches; they are among the finest horsemen in the world, possess many fire-arms, which they know how to use, and go in large bands. They are, therefore, far more to be dreaded than the Apaches, whose range we had now passed. We had no sooner arrived, than the character of our party was known throughout the city; and many applicants appeared in quest of employment, most of them persons who wanted to get to their homes. Among these were several Americans from Texas, who had come here with merchant trains, and been discharged They earnestly begged for situations, or to be permitted to accompany the train for the protection it would. afford them. I selected such men as I required, among them an excellent blacksmith, whom I wanted exceedingly, and could not procure at El Paso. The American consul, Bennet Riddells, Esq., called the morning after our arrival. This gentleman has long resided in this city, and is married to a Mexican lady. Having letters of introduction to a number of the principal citizens of the place, Mr. Riddells accompanied me in delivering them. Among the gentlemen on whom I called, were Señores Chaves, Zuloaga, and Jaques, Captain Bustamente, and Dr. Dubois, the last a French physician of high scientific attainments, and long resident in Chihuahua. Several of the American residents called on me during the day, among them Mr. Lewis Flotte, of Barranca Colorada, the gentleman whose silver mine and smelting works I visited on my way from Correlitos to El Paso. I heard from Mr. Flotte, a reiteration of what I had been told at Correlitos, and at the mine, of his persecutions; in consequence of which, he had been driven to the extremity of selling his mine as well as his estate at Barranca, at a great sacrifice. He had endeavored in vain to obtain protection of the State authorities. The statement of Mr. Flotte was corrobo rated by the American Consul, who was familiar with the facts; and I learned from them that the matter would be laid before the United States government. General Trias called, and very politely tendered me a furnished house while I remained in Chihuahua; which, however, I declined. Experience had shown us that after once going into camp life, it is better to remain there steadily. One soon becomes accustomed to a tent; and even in cold weather, it is preferable to quarters, unless one is to remain permanently in them. The change from one to the other, invariably produces colds. General Trias, who was for several years Governor of the State of Chihuahua, is a gentleman of large wealth and fine accomplishments. After receiving his education he went to Europe, where he spent eight years travelling in various parts, although he remained most of the time in England and France. He is well versed in several of the European languages, and speaks English with great correctness. Of English literature he told me he was very fond; and he considered that no native appreciated the beauties of Shakspeare and Milton better than he. With Addison and the belles-lettres writers of England he was also familiar. With large estates, a cultivated mind, and elegant manners, General Trias cannot but exercise a great influence in the State. I have before mentioned the sacrifices he made when his country was invaded by the Americans, which greatly impoverished him. There are not many such patriots in Mexico; if there were, she would not There is no doubt that be in the position she now is. General Trias detests the Americans as a people; yet |