CHAPTER XL

CHIHUAHUA TO THE RIO FLORIDO.

Departure from Chihuahua-Additional escort-Mr. Flotte with his family join us-Bachimba-Santa Cruz-Grist mill-Smelting works-Saucillo-Attack of the Comanches-La Cruz-Las Garzas-Ford the Conchas Santa Rosalia-Its defences erected against the Americans during the war-Ramada-Rio Florido-Guajuquilla-Fertile valleyMonument to our Lady of Guadalupe Search for meteorites-Hacienda Blanca-Wagon upset in an acequia-Hacienda de ConcepcionCurious mass of meteoric iron-Account of meteorites in the vicinity -Hacienda del Rio Florido.

November 1st. The wagons being repaired, and our loss of animals made good by the purchase of additional ones, we were this day enabled to resume our journey. We had added to our party six men, five as an additional guard for our animals, and a blacksmith. General Trias also furnished us with an escort of ten dragoons. Our party was further increased by the addition of Mr. Lewis Flotte (a gentleman to whom I have repeatedly alluded), who, with his wife, a Mexican lady, and eight children, were to accompany us as far as the Rio Grande, or even to the Gulf of Mexico. He had three carriages and four men, all well armed; and, as he had had considerable experience in Indian

warfare, we considered him an accession to our strength. A large train of wagons was to leave in a couple of days; but as the number of men with it was small in proportion, it would be of no advantage to us, while it might cause delays. So I preferred starting by ourselves.

All accounts received from the south brought the unpleasant news, that for six hundred miles the road was infested by the Comanches in large bodies, and well armed, and that they had committed greater depredations than ever, attacking not only travellers. but villages in open day.

We did not get off until one o'clock, so that our day's journey was necessarily short. We made, however, twelve miles over a good road. On leaving the city, we passed the base of a mountain four miles distant, when we again emerged into an open plain. It was nearly dark when we reached a pond, about half a mile from the road on our right, where we encamped. Around this pond the earth had been banked up to the height of five or six feet, in order that a larger quantity of water might be retained. The grass was good. In a valley a mile distant on our right, was a large hacienda.

November 2d. About six miles after leaving, we entered a cañon, through which we continued for four or five miles the road quite stony and rough. In this is the dry bed of a stream, which, during the rainy season, is filled with water; and, judging from the appearance of the bushes and drift wood, must quite recently have been much swollen. East of this defile, the mountains which here cross the valley rise abruptly, and

present quite a picturesque appearance. Rocky strata of various colors are seen, and the summits of the hills are crowned with masses resembling works of art. About half way through, on the right, is a fine spring, and near by a deserted rancho, now in a state of ruin. What object any one could have in occupying such a spot, I cannot imagine; for there seemed to be no land fit for cultivation or for grazing. In this cañon is a conical hill, around which winds a spiral road, and on whose summit is a stone parapet, the work of some ancient people.

A little further on, we passed another rancho; from the top of the parapet peeped a few heads, and in their midst a huge blunderbuss mounted on a swivel, probably to overawe the Indians. On emerging from the cañon, we entered a broad plain, extending to the south as far as the eye could reach. A few isolated hills were alone seen in the far distance. The plain here was about twenty-five miles wide. Five or six miles further brought us to Bachimba, a cluster of about a dozen houses, with a fine spring of water, which is retained in a pond by a wall below it. From this, the water is conducted to some gardens, in which I noticed many fig-trees. This place is noted for its fine apples; but we were unable to procure any to satisfy us of the truth of the report. Here we encamped, after a march of twenty miles.

November 3d. A train of wagons from Chihuahua, belonging to Señor Olivares, joined us last night, and left again before daylight. We continued our journey over the same plain as before, in a direction about south south-east, the road being excellent. Grass

was scant, the plain being of a desert-like character, covered with low mezquit bushes, various kinds of cacti, yucca, and the fouquiera; forming as formidable a collection of thorny plants as one need wish to make his way through. No better indication of the desert character of a country is required than the fouquiera, which thrives only in the most barren and arid spots.

Ten miles from Bachimba the road divides, one branch leading south-east to San Pablo, which is the most direct, and the other to Santa Cruz, ten miles distant. We took the latter, in order to obtain a supply of flour there for our journey. This town stands near the San Pedro Creek, a tributary of the Conchos River, and extends for nearly a mile along the valley. Parts of it are compactly built; yet I did not observe a good-looking house in it. Men, women, and children crowded to the doors as we passed, attracted by the cracking of the whips and yells of the teamsters, and seemed to eye us with as much curiosity as though they had never seen a train before. It is said to contain four or five thousand inhabitants. directly through without stopping, and creek, a fine stream of clear water, which rises in the mountains about one hundred miles to the west, when we were suddenly brought to a stand by a dilapidated bridge, across an acequia. Such was the condition of this bridge, that even the riding animals would not cross it. We had, therefore, to cut branches from the cotton-wood trees, lay them on the bridge, and cover the whole with earth, before we could make it passable. Such a bridge on the great highway from

We passed crossed the

the capital to the larger towns at the south and to the city of Mexico, is a disgrace to the State, and more so to the town within half a mile of it. A few hours' labor would render it safe and permanent; yet no one will do it. Each train managed to get over as we did, and appearances indicated that it had long been in the same plight.

Encamped at a village a mile from the stream, near the grist-mill where we were to obtain our flour. I had letters of introduction to the owner, but he was absent. He is a gentleman of much enterprise, having at this place, in addition to his flouring mill, a cotton gin and smelting furnace. The ore is brought from a mine ten miles distant. There is no wood near, and the furnaces have to be supplied with fuel by digging up the roots of the mezquit chapporal. Heaps of this lay by the road side, from which it is carried on the backs of donkeys or men to the furnaces. I learned that the mine was not profitable, but that another had been discovered, which was to be worked by the same person, who would bring the ore here to be reduced.

November 4th. Taking an easterly course, we struck the main road from San Pablo in four or five miles after setting out, when we again turned south-east. The road was good, with the same barren plain as yesterday. A tire here fell from one of the wagon wheels, notwithstanding the thorough overhauling they had received at Chihuahua; but such is the dryness of the climate, that these accidents will occur in spite of every precaution. The result was a detention of two hours, to wedge up the tire; after which we pushed on more rapidly, and reached Saucillo, said to be twenty-three