found about three hundred varas (two hundred and seventy yards) from its present location, and had been moved at different periods by the people of the hacienda to the place where it now stands. It was brought hither with the design of putting it in a blacksmith's shop, to be used as an anvil, although it had never been so employed. An attempt was made to reduce it, by building a large fire around it, and heating it to a white heat. But so intense was the heat from so large a mass, that the workmen could not approach it, and all their labor was lost. The expense of this operation was more than one hundred dollars, and resulted in obtaining a piece of the metal large enough to work into a pair of spurs.

On the top, which is quite smooth, is an inscription bearing the date 1600; but I was unable to make out a single word of it, so much has it been defaced by hammering and the addition of many crosses. It is said that the inscription gave some account of its removal.

Señor Urquida invited us into his house, to give us the particulars of the weight of the mass as estimated by his brother. We accepted his invitation, and were conducted into a very handsome suite of apartments. Here we met several gentlemen, all of whom were of the higher class, extremely affable in their manners, and in their conversation showing much intelligence. Every thing within and around indicated an air of comfort such as I had seen in no part of the country, save in two or three houses in the capital. A library of well-selected books in Spanish, French, and English, some fine pictures, a piano, etc., showed

the occupants to possess cultivated minds, as well as taste. Our gentlemanly host very politely invited us to remain to breakfast;* but we were obliged to excuse ourselves, on the ground that we had breakfasted before leaving, and that it was necessary to rejoin our party on the Rio Florido without delay.

Taking leave of our polite friends, we pursued our journey across the plateau, and reached the Hacienda del Rio Florido, nine miles distant, at three o'clock, where we found the party already encamped.

Several mules were taken sick to-day in consequence of the greenness of the corn (maize) they had eaten; and one of them died, notwithstanding every effort to save him.

This place consists of a large hacienda with a colonnade of stone, the capitals of the columns being in the Moorish style. It stands on the margin of the plateau, overlooking the valley of the river, and has a very picturesque appearance. Adjoining this building is a church, well constructed of stone, and of a better description than any we had seen since leaving Chihuahua. These buildings were erected by Juan Ceréra, a Spanish priest, at which time it was considered. one of the richest haciendas in Mexico. At his death it was divided among three of his nephews. A considerable village, with about a thousand inhabitants, now surrounds the hacienda. Twenty-six tolerably

*The usual hour for breakfast among the higher classes in Mexico is twelve o'clock. On rising in the morning a cup of coffee or chocolate only is taken, sometimes with the addition of a cracker. Dinner is taken about five, and supper at ten. Many take but two meals, the second one, answering for dinner and supper, at seven in the evening.

good paintings decorate the walls of the church; and around the altar are full length portraits of the Saints, inclosed in a large and massive gilt frame, extending from the floor to the ceiling. In the centre is a statue of "Our Lady of Guadalupe," inclosed in glass.

CHAPTER XLI.

RIO FLORIDO TO PARRAS.

A mule kidnapped-La Noria-Cerro Gordo-Enter the State of Durango -Another escort-Miserable condition of the Mexican soldiers-Recent battle here with the Comanches-La Zarca-Vast herds of cattle and horses Scarcity of wood-Droves of horses-San Pedro del GalloRio Nasas-Fertile valley-Culture of cotton-Corn-fields without irrigation-La Noria de Pedrecina-Silver mines-Cuencame-Another escort of civilians-La Noria Cureña-Rio Buenaval-Pozo CalvoDepredations of the Comanches-Alamo de Parras-Viesca mines-La Peña-Break down-Cold weather-El Pozo-Recent incursion of Indians-Reach Parras.

November 13th. When all was in readiness to start, one of our mules was missing. After hunting about for him for an hour or more, we set off, leaving an arriero to continue the search. A few hours after, the arriero overtook us with the missing animal, which he found concealed in the inner apartment of a house. A woman had fortunately witnessed the roguery of one of her countrymen as he slyly secreted the mule, and she informed the man who was searching for it.

We made fourteen miles to-day, reaching La Noria (The Draw-well)* at 2 o'clock; but it was necessary

* Noria is properly a wheel or engine for drawing water from a VOL. II.-30

to stop here, as we could not reach La Partida till after dark. I had determined to avoid night travel when it could possibly be avoided, as we had gained nothing by it. The roads are excellent, and we might go on for twenty miles without meeting a rock or gully; but the next moment we might disable the train by plunging into one of these places worn by the rain, or by upsetting in some shelving place. There are no bridges in the country, except over the acequias; and repairs are never made on the roads. If a flood washes a portion away, or it is otherwise rendered unsafe to travel, the place is simply avoided and a new route taken.

La Noria is merely a well with a large hacienda for the raising of cattle, but with no ground for tillage. As it is the only place between the Rio Florido and Cerro Gordo where there is a certainty of finding water, it is the general stopping-place for all passing trains. The table-land here consists of alternate patches of grass and chapporal, but enough of the former for many thousands of cattle.

November 14th. Having a long march before us, the camp was called at an early hour; and before the sun had shed his first rays upon us, we had breakfasted and were moving forwards. Our course lay over a broad plain with a superb road, not surpassed by the best wrought turnpike. To the east, the view was limited by a low range of hills about ten miles distant; while in other directions, neither hills nor mountains were visible. The plain was slightly undulating, with

well; the term is also applied to wells where wheels are so employed, to distinguish them from pozos, or common wells.