plaza, is a noble edifice, though its exterior is yet unfinished. Its interior surpassed any thing we had yet seen, not excepting the cathedral at Chihuahua. It abounds in pictures, some of which are very fine, and are doubtless the work of the old masters. The architectural ornaments, sculptures, gilding, etc., exhibit much taste, and are in fine preservation. We went to the roof and towers, which enabled us to see the thorough manner of its construction. Our New York builders might obtain some useful hints by examining this edifice, the walls of which are double in thickness that of any similar building in New York city.

December 9th. I rode this morning with Dr. Hewison, an Irish gentleman long resident in Mexico, to visit his cotton factory about three miles distant. It is a neat building of adobe and stone, two stories high. Its power is obtained from a spring of water about a mile distant, in the direction of the hills. This water is first collected in a reservoir, and propels a grist-mill; from this it is carried through an aqueduct, and furnishes the power for three small cotton mills, of which that of Dr. Hewison is one. When these have used it, it is conducted to other small grist-mills; and when it has been made to do all this work, and has reached the level plain, it is led by acequias to irrigate the gardens and fields of maize and wheat. So careful are the mill owners of this water, that it is not allowed to escape and run off at night, or when the mills are not in operation. At such times the gates are closed, and the water collected in a stone reservoir above.

I was enabled to ascertain the exact quantity of water from which all this power is obtained. The

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stone aqueduct through which it ran was eighteen inches broad, and the water between ten and twelve inches deep. One of the mills was carried by an overshot wheel forty feet in diameter; the others by wheels somewhat less. The superintendent of Dr. Hewison's mill is from Rhode Island. The operatives are all Mexicans, and, I was told are very quick at learning the art of weaving, and much easier to manage than American operatives. The cotton used is raised in the valleys near, and a ready market is found for the goods as fast as they are produced.

This factory was the favorite ride of General Taylor while in Saltillo; and it was a source of gratification to find that the officers of the American army were still held in high respect by the citizens of the place.

Saltillo, the capital of Coahuila, is a well-built city, with paved streets. Many of its houses are of two stories, and all of them painted in warm colors. The population is about fifteen thousand. Besides the churches mentioned, there is an unfinished edifice, which was commenced by the Jesuits. The Alameda is the finest place of the kind we had yet seen. It is filled with large trees, and its walks are lined with agaves and rose-bushes. In the evening I called, accompanied by the gentlemen of the Commission, to pay our respects to Dr. Hewison and his lady.

CHAPTER XLIII.

SALTILLO TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS.

Leave Saltillo-Accident at the start-Enter the Rinconada Pass-A night in the defile-Los Muertos-Ampudia's redoubt-Magnificent scenery -Hacienda of the Rinconada-Sierra Mitra-Santa Catarina-Suburbs of Monterey-Loma de Independencia-Arrival at Monterey-Pronunciamentos-Visit the Bishop's palace-Beautiful valley-The citadelProsperity of the city-Its climate-Elevation-Departure-MarinRamos-Carrizitos-Dense chapporal-Miss the road-Cerralvo-Puntiagudo-Bad road-Mier-Trade for serapes--Texan Mier Expedition -Character of the Rio Grande above Mier-Ascent of a steamboat to Loredo-Ancient oyster beds-Rio San Juan-Mexican brigade-Camargo-Cross the Rio Grande-Arrival at Ringgold Barracks.

December 10th. As we were not yet out of the reach of the Indians, I applied to, and was furnished with an escort of ten mounted men by the authorities here, who were promptly on the ground at the hour named for starting. Our repairs being completed, we left Saltillo this morning, but had not proceeded more than three or four miles, slowly over a smooth and level road, when the wheel of another wagon gave way, without any apparent cause. On examination it was found that most of the spokes and the rim were broken, so that the wheel was utterly ruined. Fortunately, we were near Dr. Hewison's factory, to which I rode

*

immediately, and was promptly furnished by the superintendent with a beam, which we rigged to the end of the axle as a drag. After the delay of an hour or two, we again moved forward. We passed many haciendas and ranchos, and after proceeding about twelve miles entered the famous Rinconada pass. The road now became very uneven with a continuation of hills and valleys, while mountains rugged and lofty rose on either side; the defile averaging about two miles in width. Passed a monument erected by the ladies of Saltillo on the spot where some Americans had been murdered by robbers. After making about twenty-five miles, we reached a rancho in the pass called Los Muertos (The Dead), where, just at sunset, we encamped. A small stream flowed by, lined with large cotton-wood trees.

December 11th. It was very cold when we left camp this morning, our elevation now being 6104 feet above the level of the sea, so that all wrapped themselves in blankets or overcoats. Our escort, who put on their gaudy serapes, made a very picturesque appearance. Soon after leaving we reached a narrow and steep descent, where we were obliged to wait for a train that was coming up, before we could descend. Here the pass did not exceed five hundred yards in width. Near this, on the left, is a spur of the mountain which overlooks and commands the defile, where General Ampudia erected a battery or breast work, for the purpose of checking the advance of the American army. While the train was waiting, I went out to

*Rinconada, a corner or lurking place.

examine this work, which was but a few rods off, and took a sketch of the magnificent defile. Far ahead, we could just perceive the picturesque summit of the Sierra Mitra (Mitre Mountain), so named from the striking resemblance of one of the summits in the range to a bishop's mitre. The place selected for the Mexican battery would have greatly embarrassed our army had it been maintained; but after the fall of Monterey, it was abandoned.

Soon after descending this hill, we reached the rancho of Rinconada in a curious little nook in the mountain resembling a horseshoe, which gives its name to the pass. From the number of fruit trees and cultivated grounds it had doubtless been once a thriving place. Every thing now seemed to be fast going to

ruin.

We continued to descend the whole day; yet, owing to the roughness of the road, and our three-wheeled wagon, we were obliged to drive with great caution, that we might not further disable ourselves. Our escort pointed out to us as we progressed another rancho, which was attacked by a band of Indians a few months before, and all the inmates murdered.

We were unable to reach Monterey as we had hoped to do, and it was long after dark when we reached the village of Santa Catarina, at the base of the Sierra Mitra and about twenty miles from the Rinconada, where we encamped.

December 12th. Soon after leaving, we passed the Molino de Jesus Maria, a large flouring mill, and shortly after reached the Loma de Independencia upon which stands the Bishop's palace, so celebrated in the opera