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Besides the iron bridge there is a small steam ferry-boat over the lower part of the river, which communicates with Monkwearmouth. When trade was prosperous, the Wear used to be choked with shipping, chiefly colliers; but they are now transferred to the docks, where they receive their cargoes without interrupting the navigation. The high banks which hem in the river, are, in a great measure, artificial hills of ballast, discharged from the ships. The old ch. of Monkswearmouth is gradually being buried in ballast, and buildings near it which originally stood on a height are now in a hole.

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distance of nearly 150 yds. It weighed 338 tons. The enterprise was achieved in 1841, when the pier was lengthened, in order to avoid the expense of taking down and rebuilding the lighthouse, and, above all, the cost of a temporary pier. A cradle of timbers was formed under the lighthouse, carried by 144 cast-iron rollers, travelling on 8 lines of rails, and the outer timbers supporting the braces and struts were placed on side balks, which were lubricated with a mixture of soft soap and blacklead to diminish the friction. The power applied was by means of several drawing and pushing screws, and by 3 winches with ropes and tackle-blocks, worked The New Docks are near the Hen- by 18 men. On Aug. 2 the mass don Rly. Terminus. They enclose was moved 28 ft. 2 in. in a N. direc18 acres, and were completed in tion, to place it on a line with the 1851, at a cost of 700,000l.; the new pier; after shifting the rollers foundation of the S. docks was laid and slide balks, the cradle with its Feb. 4, 1848. The great dock has load was steadily propelled at an avean area of 32 acres, and commands rage rate of 33 ft. per hour when in 24 ft. water at ordinary springs; the motion; the entire time of moving northern half-tide basin covers 18 over 447 ft. being 13 hours 24 min. acres, the N. and S. half-tide basins It was not until Oct. 4 that the lightenclose 4 acres, the tidal harbours house arrived at the extremity of the occupy 20 acres; the whole area is pier, where the foundation for it was about 146 acres, of which 127 were prepared. The timbers were withreclaimed from the sea, and include drawn gradually, the spaces being 66 acres of water and 80 of land. filled with solid masonry, and the The N. dock, with an area of 10 acres, building stood without a crack or opened 1837, and capable of accom- subsidence. A light was exhibited as modating 100 sail, belongs to the usual every night during its transit. North-Eastern Rly. Company. In The entire cost was 8271., and the 1851 their revenue was 9000l., and saving caused by this plan of removal has greatly increased since that time. was 8931."-Athenæum. The sea-outlet is 26 ft. deep at high water.

The port of Sunderland is formed by 2 piers stretching out into the sea to a distance of 456 yds. on either side of the mouth of the Wear; that on the S. side, forms a pleasant promenade.

At the end of the N. pier is the Lighthouse, 76 ft. high and 15 ft. diameter, which was most ingeniously transported entire by Mr. Murray, the engineer, from its original position to that which it now occupies, a

The Pemberton Coal-pit is remarkable for the deepest shaft in the world, measuring 1794 ft., or nearly one-third of a mile. The rope by which the coals are drawn up weighs nearly 5 tons, and a tub or corve of coals is drawn up from this depth in 47 seconds. 800 tons of coal are wound up daily. The average temperature at the bottom is 870, about 25° above that of the surface. The barometer stands at 32.80 higher than anywhere else on the globe.

The most interesting circumstance connected with this pit is, that it was sunk through 330 ft. of superincumbent magnesian limestone, in the confidence of finding coal below. It was begun 1826; the first coal was reached 1831, but no profitable seam was attained till 1834, and the outlay amounted to 100,000l. For a considerable distance the pit is lined with metal tubing to keep out the water. Before reaching the coal strata a spring was tapped which poured out 3000 gallons of water per minute into the shaft; this was kept under by a steam-engine of 200 horse power. At a depth of 1000 ft. a fresh spring burst into the works, and it was not till after nearly twenty years of outlay and disappointment that the good seam was reached. The workings are carried under the river, and very near the sea, and an inclined drift, 11,000 yds. in length, with a rise of 6 in. in a yard, was constructed in 1844. In 1846 the Hutton seam was reached, 4 ft. thick of excellent coal.

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with a Stat. on the Pontop and Shields Rly., which branches off here, is Boldon (Bol-dun, round hill), which gave its name to the invaluable record called the Boldon Buke, which was compiled in 1180 by Bishop Pudsey, to supply the omission of the county of Durham in the Domesday Book of the Conqueror. The original volume has perished, but three copies of it remain, viz., in the auditor's office at Durham, in the chapter library at Durham, and among Abp. Laud's MSS. in the Bodleian Library at Oxford.

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'Crowning a hill midway between Hylton Castle and Jarrow, stands Boldon Church (St. Nicholas), once a beautiful specimen of E. E. architecture, of which the peculiarly designed tower and spire are replete with interest. The term 'beautiful' may perhaps be deemed inapplicable to its stunted proportions, but the whole structure is in perfect accordance with the exposed landscape of which it forms a prominent feature, and so long as harmonious adaptation of position is a concomitant of the beautiful, will the unassuming pile of Boldon lay claim to that term. The effigy of an ecclesiastic, exquisitely sculptured, lies to the right of the altar."-Billings. The Ch. has been restored. It contains a tomb of a Hylton and two stone coffins, discovered 1825.

On Boldon Hill, the Scots were repulsed by the Cavaliers under the Marquis of Newcastle, March 24, 1644.

1. 2 m. (visible across the smoky plains) is Jarrow, which,-in spite of the black atmosphere and noxious Vapours with which the chemical factories and coal traffic of the neighbouring Tyne have surrounded it,-is still, from its associations with the Venerable Bede, one of the most interesting spots in the N. of England.

Jarrow derives its name from the Saxon word "gyrwy," a marsh, ap

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plied to the neighbouring "slake." | Epigrams,' and a 'Treatise on the An important Roman station once Art of Poetry;' but his most imporoccupied its site, as is proved from tant work was his Ecclesiastical various inscribed altars which have History of the Nations of the Anbeen found there. gles,' which was undertaken at the request of Ceolwulph, king of Northumbria, whose own interest in a learned and monastic life was such, that, three years after Bede's death, he himself became a monk at Lindisfarne. This history, in five books, was translated into Saxon by King Alfred. Copies of the Vulgate New Test. and of Cassiodorus on the Psalms, in the handwriting of Bede, are preserved in the Chapter Library at Durham.

In A.D. 680, "the noble Abbat Benedict Biscop," built a monastery on the then green and lonely hill of Jarrow, and dedicated it to St. Paul, having just before built the monastery of Weremouth. Both his foundations were remarkable in that uncivilized age, for being built of stone and having glazed windows. "Such was the change made in the two churches by the use of glass, that the unlettered people avowed a belief, which was handed down as a tradition for many generations, that it never was dark in old Jarrow church."" -British Association, 1863.

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In 673 Bede was received into the monastery of Weremouth, when he was only 7 years old, and a year before the monastery was entirely completed. Here he was educated by Biscop, and at his death removed to the monastery of Jarrow (then governed by Ceolfrid), where he passed the rest of his life in study and devotion. Here he was instructed in divinity by Trumberet, pupil of St. Chad of Lichfield; in Greek by Abp. Theodore, who was a Greek by birth; and in church music by John, the arch-chaunter, who had accompanied Biscop from Rome. At the age of 19 he was ordained deacon, at the order of Ceolfrid, by John, Bishop of Hexham (afterwards St. John of Beverley), and remained from that time immersed in study, till, at the age of 30, he was ordained priest by the same bishop. From this time (according to his own statement) till his 59th year, he never ceased to compose annotations and commentaries on the Scripture for his own benefit and that of his brethren. Encouraged by the advice of Acca, Bp. of Lindisfarne, he also wrote the Life of St. Cuthbert,' various other Lives of the Saints,' 'Hymns,'

Much time was also devoted by Bede to teaching, and among his pupils were Claudius and Clement, first teachers of literature in France; Huæbert, who succeeded Ceolfrid as Abbot of Jarrow; Cuthbert, who succeeded Huæbert; and Nothelmus, afterwards Abp. of Canterbury. Through his pupils and his works the fame of Bede became widely known even in his lifetime, and Pope Sergius invited him to Rome, that he might do him honour; but he refused to leave his cell, where, besides fulfilling the duties of a priest, he was constantly employed in the work of the monastery, which he describes as including the winnowing and thrashing of corn, giving milk to the lambs and calves, and the employments of the garden, kitchen, and bakehouse.

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In March, 735, he became ill, and died in the monastery of Jarrow, on the 26th of May, aged 62. His end is thus described by one of his pupils, who was present: During these (his last) days he laboured to compose two works well worthy to be remembered, besides the lessons we had from him, and singing of Psalms, viz., he translated the Gospel of St. John into our own tongue, for the benefit of the Church, and some collections out of the Book of Notes of Bishop Isidorus, saying, 'I will

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not have my lads read a falsehood, and to labour herein after my death, without any advantage.' When the Tuesday before Ascension came, he began to be more vehemently distempered, but he passed all that day pleasantly, and dictated, and now and then, among other things, said, Go on quickly; I know not how long I shall hold out, and whether my Maker will soon take me away.' But to us he seemed very well to know the time of his departure; and so he spent the night, waking, in thanksgiving; and the morning appearing, that is, Wednesday, he ordered that we should speedily write what he had begun; and, this done, we walked to the third hour with the relics of saints, according to the custom of that day. There was one of us with him, who said to him, 'Most dear Master, there is still one chapter wanting; do you think it troublesome to be asked any more questions?' He answered, 'It is no trouble; take your pen, and make ready, and write fast:' which he did; but at the ninth hour he said to me, 'Run quickly, and bring the priests of our monastery to me.' He spoke to every one of them, admonishing and entreating that they would carefully say masses and prayers for him, which they readily promised; but they all mourned and wept, especially because he said, 'that they should no more see his face in this world.' They rejoiced for that he said, 'It is time that I return to Him who formed me out of nothing. I have lived long; my merciful Judge well foresaw my life for me; the time of my dissolution draws nigh, for I desire to be dissolved and to be with Christ.' Having said much more, he passed the day joyfully till the evening; and the above-mentioned boy said, 'Dear Master, there is yet one sentence not written.' He answered, Write quickly.' Soon after, the boy said, The sentence is now written.' He

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replied, 'You have said true; it is ended. Receive my head into your hands, for it is a great satisfaction to me to sit facing my holy place where I was wont to pray, that I may also sitting call upon my Father, and on the pavement of His little place, singing, "Glory be to the Father, and to the Son, and to the Holy Ghost." When he had named the Holy Ghost, he breathed his last, and so departed to the heavenly kingdom. All that beheld the blessed father's death, said they had never seen any other expire in so much devotion and tranquillity. For, as long as his soul remained in his body, he never ceased with his hands to give thanks to the true and living God, saying, 'Glory be to the Father,' and other spiritual expressions, with his palms expanded."

Bede was buried in Jarrow church to him. His tomb was inscribed, in the S. porch, which was dedicated according to Wm. of Malmesbury, with the epitaph,

"Presbyter hic Beda requiescit carne sepultus Dona Christi animam in cœlis gaudere per

ævum,

Digne illi sophiae debriari fonti cui jam Suspiravit orans intento semper amore."

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His fame spread rapidly. Pope Boniface, in one of his epistles, calls him the Candle of the English Church," and his successor, Lucius, sent a present of a vestment to the relics of "Bede of Blessed Memory.” Before the 12th centy. he acquired the epithet "Venerable." Continual pilgrimages were made to his tomb at Jarrow till the time of Edward the Confessor, when his relics were carried to Durham by Egfrid, a priest, and placed in the coffin of St. Cuthbert. Hence they were removed by Bishop Pudsey, in 1154, to be enclosed in a gorgeous casket of gold and silver on a shrine in his newly-built chapel of the Galilee. The shrine was destroyed at the Reformation, but the bones

which it supported were buried be- | reach, half lost in reeks and vapours neath its site, and the monument, which still remains, was erected over them. It is related that a short time before, when a French bishop, on his return from Scotland, visited the shrines of Cuthbert and Bede, he offered a "baubee," the smallest of Scottish coins, to St. Cuthbert, saying, “If thou art a saint, pray for me," but at the shrine of Bede he offered a French crown, requesting his prayers, because he was a saint."

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"O venerable Bede! The saint, the scholar, from a circle freed Of toil stupendous, in a hallowed seat

Of learning, where thou heard'st the billows
beat

On a wild coast, rough monitors to feed
Perpetual industry. Sublime Recluse !
The recreant soul, that dares to shun the debt
Imposed on human kind, must first forget
Thy diligence, thy unrelaxing use
Of a long life; and in the hour of death,
The last dear service of thy passing breath."
WORDSWORTH.

The monastery was burnt by the Danes in 867, and remained desolate for two centuries, till it was granted by Bp. Walcher to Aldwin, a Mercian monk (1074), in whose time the ch. was rebuilt, and the monastery partially re-established. In 1079, the mangled remains of Bishop Walcher (see Rte. 1) were brought here for interment. In 1083, Bishop Carileph moved the monks to Durham, after which the monastery was scantily filled, and, like Weremouth, was governed by a Master."

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The ancient ch. is still standing, amid the remains of monastic walls, rising on a low hill above the pitmen's cottages and blackened waters of the Slake. Could Bede see it now, he would imagine chaos come again. He would see the whole breadth of the river occupied with a host of vessels of all nations; scores of tall chimneys vomiting volumes of black smoke; houses clustered right and left, as far as the eye can

of a thousand sorts, issuing from coke and brick kilns, from forges and roperies, from manufactories of glass and alkalies, and what the old woman of the church calls nasty poisons that kill everything about except those that make 'em.' He would see steam-boats and steamengines, and along the banks of the Tyne huge ranges of ballast hills; that is, hills, almost mountains, of sand, that ships coming from the south of England and the Continent, have brought as ballast, and emptied here."-Howitt.

The Church of St. Paul has every appearance of great antiquity. Portions of the S. aisle wall, and the small narrow windows above the modern square-headed doorway, are Saxon. The tower, of two stories, which formed the centre of an oblong ch. without transepts, is Norm., as are most of the remains of monastic buildings. It has the peculiarity of being from N. to S. nearly twice its length from E. to W., and though this disproportion is considerably diminished towards the top by offsets, the longer sides have each two belfry windows, while one of equal dimensions is sufficient for each of the short sides. The chancel (40 ft. by 15) is built of cubical stones, like those employed in Roman walls. It is lighted by Dec. windows, inserted about 1400, and contains two elaborately carved bench-ends of the 15th centy. Here, also, is a heavy, straight-backed seat, called "Bede's Chair," evidently of great antiquity, though it is difficult to account for the rescue of the chair when the Danes burnt the monastery. It has been much hacked and pillaged by relic collectors. In the tower is a remarkable ancient bell, marked with two fleurs de lis, and inscribed, "Sancte Paule ora pro nobis." It is supposed by Brand to have been one of those originally placed there by Biscop,

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