with the inhabitants. He said, "Get rid of the Turkish janisaries as soon as you can:-accustomed to command as masters, they will never consent to be in subordination. The Moors are timid; you will govern them without difficulty; but do not place entire confidence in what they promise. The Jews who are established in this regency are still more knavish and corrupt than those of Constantinople. Employ them, because they are clever in matters of trade and commerce, but never lose sight of them; always hold the blade suspended over their heads. As to the Arabs, they are not to be feared; good treatment will render them docile and faithful. Persecution would deprive you of them presently; they would depart with their property, and carry their industry to the mountains, and even to Biledulgerid, or else they would pass into the states of Tunis. As for the ferocious Berbers, they never loved foreigners, and detest to have them among them. Avoid a general war with this warlike and numerous people; you would draw no advantage from it; but follow towards them the system always followed by the Deys of Algiers; that is to say, throw dissension among them, and profit by their quarrels." The French afterwards found there was much policy in these remarks.

General Bourmont proceeded to form a Commission of Government for the city, composed of some French officers, and a municipal council, composed of Moors and Jews. All was done that seemed likely to produce unity among the various classes of inhabitants, by making courts of justice that would give equal laws to all. But many difficulties were thrown in the way of these attempts. Few people are more prejudiced in their adherence to old customs than the Mahometans; and when they found their old institutions overturned, bad though they were, they were very dissatisfied.

We must now cease to follow in detail the measures pursued by the French. Algiers had become, however insecurely, a French colony, and as such we cannot detail the repeated contests which ensued between them and the roving tribes. The army was indeed surrounded by difficulties of no ordinary kind. Not only were the native tribes ill-disposed towards them, but the government at home was very much perplexed to know whether to retain Algiers or not. Foreign powers were making many objections to the establishment of a French colony on the south shore of the Mediterranean; while the expense of keeping up a considerable army was found to be very great. It was, however, determined to retain Algiers as a colony.

The army, in succeeding years took and occupied the principal towns; and many emigrants have gone out from France, to introduce European customs and industry there. Attempts have been made to cultivate cotton, sugar, and many other articles which it was hoped would ultimately repay the mother-country for the expense which the establishment of the colony has entailed; for after the treasure found in the Kasba was once received, no farther income, except to a trifling amount, was to be expected from Algiers. We regret, however, to add, that the natives have again risen up against their invaders; have massacred many of the French colonists and totally destroyed the farm-houses and cultivated grounds, so that the only place of security is within the walls of the fortified towns.

In concluding this historical sketch, we shall merely add, that we should much regret if political reasons should lead to an abandonment of a colony which has already had the effect of putting a stop to that inhuman system of piracy which rendered Algiers the terror of European shipping. The large amount of scientific and valuable knowledge possessed by the French would produce happy results if brought to bear upon the hitherto ungenial soil of Northern Africa.

4. DESCRIPTION OF THE ALGERINE CITIES
AND TOWNS.

WE shall now direct the reader's attention to the nature and arrangement of the principal towns forming the Regency; and shall begin with that which is, in every respect the principal, viz., the city of

ALGIERS. Joseph Pitts, who visited Algiers a hundred and forty years ago, says,-" The tops of the houses are all over white, being flat and covered with lime and sand as floors. The upper part of the town is not so broad as the lower part, and therefore at sea it looks just like the top-sail of a ship. It is a very strong place, and well fortified with casties and guns. There are seven castles without the walls, and two tiers of guns in most of them. But in the

STREET IN ALGIERS.

greatest castle, which is on the mole without the gate, there are three tiers of guns, many of them of an extraordinary length, carrying fifty, sixty, yea eighty pound shot. Besides all these castles, there is at the higher end of the town, within the walls, another castle, with many guns. And moreover, on many places towards the sea, are great guns planted. Algiers is well walled and surrounded with a great trench. It hath five gates, and some of these have two, some three, other gates within them, and some of them plated all over with thick iron. So that it is made strong and convenient for being what it is, a nest of pirates."

Dr. Shaw, Pinati, Mr. Salamè, and other travellers, have described the situation of Algiers at different periods within the last hundred years. But these we shall pass over, and describe the town just as the scientific and literary members of the late French expedition found it in 1830.

Algiers is built on the side of a hill, sloping down to the sea. It is triangular in shape, its base being on the shore, and its apex coinciding with the summit of the hill, which rises to a height of 400 feet. On this summit is placed the Kasba, which served at once as a fort to command the city, as the palace of the Dey, and as the storehouse in which he kept his merchandise; for the Dey, like most barbarous princes, had reserved to himself the monopoly of certain necessary articles; and as he fixed the price at which he bought, as well as that at which he sold, there is not a doubt that he was a flourishing shopkeeper.

The houses of Algiers have no roofs but all have white. washed terraces; and as this white-wash is also applied to the outsides of the houses, the forts, the batteries, and the walls that surround the city, it looks, from a certain distance, like a vast chalk quarry opened on the side of a mountain. Towards the sea, the city is defended by a line of forts and batteries, connected with the main-land by a mole of masonry. On this side, Algiers is entered by the Marine Gate, which opens on the mole. This gate, covered by a circular arch, is adorned with rude figures: and under the arch is a custom house and a guard, which used to contain several instruments of barbarous punishment. Passing through the gate we enter the best street in Algiers, which is not more than ten feet wide; and as most of the

The streets are generally very crooked. The city is well supplied with water, by means of fountains; or, when these are wanting, by large earthen jars fixed in an excavation of the wall, and constantly replenished. There are also excavations attached to each house for the reception of dirt, which is daily removed by scavengers. The houses are generally of a rectangular form, with four walls, raised to the height of three stories. The ground floor is used as stables, store-houses, slaves' apartments, &c. The hall door is reached by a flight of steps, and immediately after passing it you enter the vestibule, or principal apartment. This is a square room, two sides of which have stone benches, adorned by a row of pillars of white marble, finished at top by Moorish arches, sculptured, and forming little arcades, beneath which the master sits smoking his pipe, while engaged either on business or with visitors. As soon as a visitor enters, he is seated on a mat or tapestry, and coffee and a pipe are brought to him by a slave. Up stairs are the women's apartments, over which is the terrace, where they take the air after sunset, at which time men are forbidden to set foot on it. This description applies to the houses of the wealthy and influential Algerines.

The principal mosque at Algiers is situated at the entrance of the street leading from the Marine Gate. It is a long rectangular building, vaulted, divided longitudinally into three aisles by two rows of pillars; and beneath the dome are two other rows crossing the first at right angles. At each side of the principal aisle the pillars support galleries, of which those nearest to the door are open to the public, but those beyond the dome and on each side of the recess, are reserved for the nobility. Five or six crystal lustres and several lamps are suspended by chains along the grand aisle, and between the two rows of pillars which intersect between the dome. The lamps are lighted for evening prayer, but the lustres are only used on grand ceremonies, such as the feast of Beyram. The ceremonies on the occasion of this feast are as follow, or rather were, before the Dey was dethroned by the French. On the first day of the feast, as soon as the Imams had announced to the Dey that they had seen the moon, he repaired, accompanied by his ministers, principal officers, and a numerous guard, to the mosque, where he remained during the performance of service. Returning to the palace, he placed himself on his throne, and then the Khazan-Hadgi, as prime minister, kissed his hand; and all the others did the same in succession. The European Consuls, who were admitted directly after the ministers, came also to pay their respects to the Dey, and to kiss his hand. After the consuls came the chief men of the city, the chief of the Jews, and the wardens of the different trades. Those who had been allowed to kiss hands arranged themselves in galleries round the court to witness several sports and exhibitions that ensued.

The Deys used formerly to inhabit a palace near the seashore; but it was so defenceless, that if the janisaries thought proper to murder the Dey and elect a new one, they had little difficulty in so doing. This became such a practice, that a Dey was hardly ever known to die quietly in his bed; and on one occasion five Deys were elected and murdered in the course of twelve hours through the strife of rival parties. Ali Pacha, the Dey whom Lord Exmouth found at Algiers, thinking such a system anything but pleasant, resolved to remove to the Kasba, or fort; he therefore caused several cannon to be transported from the marine fort to the Kasba. When this was done, he changed his ministers and all the superior officers of government, issued an order that all Turks should be in their barracks at six o'clock on a particular evening, and threatened with death those who should be found in the streets after that hour. Around his person he had thirty Turks entirely devoted to his interest. On the appointed evening, towards midnight, fifty mules prepared by his order, and escorted by his guard, conveyed all his treasures in eight journeys. When assured that this was done, he ordered his flag to be struck, and set out accompanied by his family and all his household, preceded by music. No one knew what was going on, and the order to kill every one found in the street after six o'clock having awed the turbulent, he proccoded to the Kasba in safety. When he had entered, and had caused the gates to be locked, he said to those who surrounded him, "Now I am Dey!" The next day he caused it to he proclaimed through the whole city that he

him must go thither. The janisaries by no means relished this mode of curtailing their power; so they revolted next day, and resolved to attack the Dey in the Kasba. But he was prepared to meet them and had adopted such precautions as secured their defeat:-in short he attained that object which had been denied to so many Deys--he died a natural death. But such was the fear that the janisaries inspired, that his successor, Hussein Pacha, never quitted the Kasba for ten years, for fear of them; but he was, as we have already seen, afterwards liberated from his thraldom, and dethroned from his office, by the French.

The Kasba presents from a distance a white shapeless mass, which could not be recognised as a fortress but for the enormous cannon which are pointing from its embrasures. The gate, finished by a circular arch, is sufficiently high to admit a man on horseback; it is constructed of white marble, sculptured, and an Arabian inscription is placed at the top.

The eating-houses of Algiers are not very tempting. In a little back shop, at the door of which is constructed a sort of fireplace with three narrow compartments, are placed two dirty Moors, who cut up, on a board, meat into morsels about the size of dice; when the meat is cut, they fix the pieces on little iron spits, several of which they place over the fire. When the pieces of meat are broiled, the cook unspits them on a little plate, throws over them, with a dirty hand, some salt and minced herbs, and sends them to the customers, who are squatted in a corner of the shop. But some do not take a seat at this "humble board;" they merely pay their money as they pass the shop, and hold out their hands, into which the cook empties one or more pieces of meat, according to the sum he has received. It is generally the Bedouins who visit these wretched places. There are sixty or seventy coffee-houses in Algiers, of which only about four or five merit particular attention. The most remarkable is situated not far from the mosque. It consists of many long straight galleries, supported by small marble columns, and furnished on two sides with stone benches. In a small square room there spouts up a beautiful and refreshing fountain. The kitchen or laboratory is in the middle of one of the galleries, and is furnished with a furnace, boiler, and sundry vessels for the coffee. Into this house Turks and Moors of the wealthier class used to come, and seat themselves gravely on the benches. A boy would then bring them a bit of lighted charcoal, to kindle their pipes, and a little cup of coffee without sugar. M. Rozet gives the Algerine coffee the character of being weak and badly made, like the English. The better kind of coffee-houses are attended during the afternoon and evening by musicians, who play upon a sort of guitar, and make all sorts of grimaces and contortions. The Moors and Turks sometimes go into a coffee house at ten in the forenoon, and remain there nearly all day, drinking and smoking.

Barbers shops are in most countries famous places of resort for idlers, gossippers, and politicians of a humble class. These shops are, in Algiers, about four or five yards long, and two or three wide, with a bench all round for customers to sit upon, and the various implements of the barber hanging against the wall, together with a few wretched pictures of the triumphs of the corsairs, &c.

There are bazaars in Algiers, which are formed somewhat differently from those of Eastern countries. They are large houses with galleries, on each side of which are small chambers independent of one another, and capable of being locked. Each bazaar has two or three floors, and as many rooms as there is space for. Before the French took Algiers, if a foreign merchant obtained leave to settle in the city, he went and hired a stall or shop in one of the bazaars, where he exposed his goods, for the shops in the streets are generally too mean to serve for a reputable trader.

Most of the Arabs and Berbers who have business to transact in Algiers, very unceremoniously sleep in the middle of the streets, with their horses; but some pay a trifle for the use of a kind of lodging-house, called a fonduc Such a building consists of a court-yard surrounded by little cells or apartments, in which the Bedouins and their horses sleep. At the back of the gallery which runs round the court are several pots or vessels placed over three stones, with a space between them containing a fire. These pots are the kitchens of the Bedouins, in which they per form their cooking.

The baths of Algiers partake much of the luxury which

distinguishes those of Turkey and Persia; indeed the routine of bathing is so very similar, that we do not think it necessary to describe that which has been so often described.

The state of Algiers as we have thus detailed it, is such as it appeared about the time that the French took possession of it. It may be interesting to see what a later traveller, and of a different nation, says about Algiers since it has changed its masters. Sir Grenville Temple visited Algiers in 1835, and thus describes it :

"About half way between the two sea-gates, the French have lately cleared away an extensive piece of ground which is called Place du Gouvernement, and which is to be faced with public offices and other edifices, built according to European models; the erection of a church and of a theatre has also been ordered. Many of the Moorish houses are of very large dimensions, and possess in their interior great beauty of architecture. The mosques, mesjids, and chapels are numerous, but exteriorly have no claims whatever to our admiration; what they may be within, I had not the power of ascertaining, as the French government have strictly prohibited Christians from crossing their thresholds; but flat roofs, and ugly square towers, like those of our English churches, are but poor substitutes for the swelling bronze domes, and graceful lofty minarets, which at Stamboul and Kahira, rise in beauty at every step before the admiring eye. The principal mosque was pulled down by the French to make room for the new square, and another in the Rue du Divan was shortly to be consecrated to Christian worship. All the houses are numbered, and the streets have received names the medley of which is curious; for we read, Rue Annibal, Orleans, Sophonisba, du Chat, Belisaire, Trois Couleurs, Barbarossa, Sidney Smith, Numides, la Charte, Lotophages, Etat Major, &c.

'Algiers is daily assuming a more European aspect; hats are nearly as often seen as turbans, cigars have replaced the long pipes, and the Moorish bazaars give way to the glazed windows of French shops. Upwards of fifty mer chants have established counting-houses, and a considerable number of mechanics and tradesmen, including of course a full proportion of modistes, couturières, and perruquiers, are thickly scattered about. Eleven grand cafes with billiard tables, four grand hotels, (which are, however, execrable,) three restaurateurs, one hundred eating-houses, two cabinets litteraires, one circus, a cosmorama, &c., have already been established, and cabriolets and omnibuses were shortly to ply from the Bab-hazoon to Mustafa Pacha, and from Bab-el-Haout to the Dey's country villa. The Kazbah (Kasba) is a little town itself, containing the late Dey's palace, and several other houses and gardens; the palace has suffered much from the French soldiery, who, on first occupying it, pulled up the pavement, tore down the glazed tile coating of the rooms, and otherwise committed great injury in their eager search after treasure. The marble flooring, the arched galleries, supported by marble pillars of fantastic but graceful forms, which surrounded the open courts, the elegant fountains which scattered coolness around, and the latticed shahne-sheens, still, however, remain to repay the fatigue and trouble of the visitor's ascent. The corps de garde, with the gate, and the sycamores, banana-trees, and vines which surround it, together with the mixture of French uniforms and Moorish costumes, formed altogether a beautiful little picture; as did also a wine-shop, shaded by a vine-covered pergola, under which were seated groups of soldiers."

On the general question of the occupation of Algiers by the French, Sismondi makes the following remarks, more in a social than in a political point of view:

"Africa has especial need of the services of men, whose thoughts are directed to the benefits of industrious exertion, and who can secure its application. She will give a preference to those who know how to create new resources, and to improve the old ones, to such as can accommodate themselves to a connexion with a people in a state of barbarism, and communicate the first elements of civilization,-who can give and secure the administration of public order; in fine, those who will bring with them the arts, trade, and industry, necessary for the developement and progress of science, and the advancement of civilization; the whereon and the wherewith to work will be found in the country. If the French arrive as friends, protectors, and liberators, aiding and not oppressing the Moors; if they give them security, equality in the eye of the law, a respect for the life and happiness of all bearing the human form, -they will find these people in return the same in

dustrious labourers, patient, intelligent, and active, who covered the lands of Grenada and Valencia with the wonders of Moorish agriculture ;-they will find in the Jews, (of whom there are more than 50,000 in the kingdom,) that aptitude for commerce, that quickness of calculation, that knowledge of the markets of Africa, that will make them. clever agents, quick in commercial enterprise, active hawkers and retailers, for communication with the barbarous tribes of the desert, or the oppressed people of Morocco and Tunis."

These were the words of a writer who was anxious that his countrymen should take possession of Algiers. We must, however, join in the remark of an English journalist, that We have nothing to do with the political question involved in the French occupation of Algiers; but as philanthropists we may be allowed to say, that if, as a consequence, civilization shall extend among the savage hordes of Africa, the French will deserve the gratitude of the human race, upon whom they have already conferred an immense benefit, by the destruction of a nest of pirates which the jealousies of the maritime governments of Europe suffered to exist, during so many ages, upon the confines of the Christian world."

Reserving for a future Supplement a description of some other towns in the regency of Algiers, and also the filling up of the fifth and sixth sections of our subject, we will conclude the present paper with the following anecdotes of past and present times.

In 1635, a romantic adventure occurred. Four young Frenchmen, brothers, undertook to retort the piracies of the Algerines, with a frigate of ten guns. In this Quixotic undertaking a hundred volunteers embarked: a Maltese commission was procured, together with an able master, and thirty-six mariners. They had the good fortune on their first setting out, to take a ship laden with wine on the Spanish coast; with which they were so much elated, that three days afterwards they madly encountered two large Algerine corsairs, both well manned and ably commanded. These vessels attacked the frigate so furiously that she soon lost her main-mast; notwithstanding which, the French made so desperate a resistance, that the pirates were not able to take them, till the noise of their fire brought up five more Algerine vessels, by which the French vessel was boarded and taken. The young knights-errant were punished for their temerity by a dreadful captivity of seven years, from which they did not escape but at a ransom of 6000 dollars.

Sometimes the Algerines attacked ships able to repel them; but more frequently they were able to make the crews prisoners, and even to land on the coasts of Spain, France, and Italy, removing from thence immense numbers of the inhabitants, who were sold as slaves. In 1683, Du Quesne, a chivalrous French nobleman, determined to punish their atrocious piracies, bombarded Algiers for three days, and produced such terrible devastation, that the Dey sued for peace, and offered to deliver up all the French who were then prisoners at Algiers. This was accepted, with an additional proviso, that Mezomorto, the Algerinic admiral, should be given up as a hostage for the faithful performance of the treaty. This so exasperated the admiral, that when the douwan, or senate, sat to deliberate on that proviso, he broke out into a violent passion, and told the assembly that the cowardice of those who governed, had occasioned the ruin of Algiers; but that for his part, he would never consent to deliver up anything which had been taken from the French. He immediately acquainted the soldiery with what had passed; which so exasperated them, that they murdered the Dey that very night, and next day chose Mezomorto in his place. The new Dey broke up the negociation for peace; and Du Quesne continued to bombard the city. Mezomorto, unmoved at the state to which it was reduced, and the vast number of the slain, whose blood ran in rivulets along the streets, or rather, growing furious and desperate, sought only revenge; and not content with causing all the French in the city to be cruelly murdered, ordered their consul to be tied hand and foot, and fastened alive to the mouth of a mortar, whence he was shot away. By this piece of inhumanity Du Quesne was so exasperated, that he did not leave Algiers, till he had utterly destroyed their fortifications, shipping, and three-fourths of the whole city, by which it became a heap of ruins. The Algerines were at length compelled to sue for mercy.

Soon after Marshal Bourmont found himself in possession of Algiers, he directed his attention to other parts of the regency, with the view of gradually getting them to ac

knowledge the French as masters. The Bey of Titerie sent in his submission, and was reinstated in his government, as an officer under French authority. An express was then sent to the Bey of Oran, with the same request. He excused himself from the charge of government under the French, on account of his advanced age, but readily gave the required submission, and agreed that a French garrison should enter Oran. The town of Bona, which had been often harassed by attacks of the Berbers, solicited the protection of the French. A detachment was therefore sent thither, which was well received by the inhabitants.

The Bey of Titerie came to do homage to Bourmont, and requested him to pay a visit to Belida, a town about eight leagues distant from Algiers, and which he wished to attach to his government. But other considerations induced the general to appoint an Aga as governor of the place. This dissatisfied the Bey of Titerie, and also the Berbers; but as General Bourmont wished to visit the town, he set out with a force of 1500 men and several officers. The troops expected to have only a pleasant, though rather long march; and though they saw numerous groups of Arabs, they met with no interruption, and proceeded first across a dreary plain, and afterwards through a fertile country, till they arrived at Belida. They were received kindly by the inhabitants, and slept them in safety that night. The next day the new Aga was installed into his office, and all seemed going on well, until towards evening, when large troops of Berbers were seen approaching the town. At eleven o'clock some shots were heard near the house where the general was quartered, and an aide-de-camp who went out to see what was the matter, was instantly shot. It was now seen that vigorous defensive measures were necessary. The troops were ordered to march back to Algiers, without wasting time in following the roving hordes. During their homeward march they were harassed with clouds of Berbers, who attacked them with the greatest audacity, and did not desist until the French had re-entered Algiers. The Berbers then returned to Belida, and pillaged the town, in revenge for the kind reception which the Moors and Jews had given to the French.

Thus ended an adventure which opened the eyes of the French to the dangers and difficulties of their situation. Had they to do with troops who observed anything like order or system in their attacks, the known courage and hardihood of the French would have made them equal to their task; but to conquer men who can gallop across a

desert in every direction as soon as they meet with a defeat, is almost an impossibility.

This retreat of the French from Belida had an unfortunate effect, in showing that they were not invincible. Fron that day the Arabs and Berbers approached Algiers, and committed all sorts of ravages upon the cultivators of the suburbs. Within the city, also, the good feeling which it was supposed had been established, changed: Jews thought the Turks were treated too well, and Turks thought that both Moors and Jews were unduly favoured. In short, almost the whole population of the city, headed and encouraged without by the Bey of Titerie, who now threw off the mask, turned against the French, and it was by chance that a plot was discovered, for massacreing every French man in the place. Severe measures were taken, productive of a partial good effect; but by the end of July, doubt, anxiety, and disease had lowered the enthusiasm of the French, both men and officers, very considerably. The dysentery had carried off more than two thousand men. On the 11th of August a corvette appeared in the bay, bearing the news of the French revolution of 1830. The general and his officers, in addition to their other troubles, were now much embarrassed to know what part to take in the new order of things; but on the 2nd September, Marshal Clausel arrived, with the information that he was appointed to fill the station occupied by Bourmont, and that Louis Philippe had been made king. Bourmont gave up his command, but declined to return to France, preferring to go to some other country as a private individual.

The French found it necessary to relinquish Oran and Bona, and confine themselves wholly within the city: indeed they may almost be said to have been imprisoned there by the Arabs, who massacred every soldier who ventured far from the city.

Marshal Clausel afterwards undertook an expedition to Medeya, a town situated in the little Atlas mountains, for the purpose of planning the establishment of a model farm, which should be the nucleus from whence a system of profitable cultivation might spread out. His attempt was tolerably successful; but he had on his return the same sort of evidence which General Bourmont had received, of the warlike and hostile disposition of the Arabs and Berbers. It required all his skill and resolution to prevent his men trom falling a sacrifice to the incessant attacks of the Arabs.