sight-seeing, I went to bathe in the Meuse (I think that is the name of the river; not that it mattersits water would smell as sweet by any other name!) I had considerable difficulty at first in getting a boat; however, at last I managed it, and was conveyed to an island, on which island I undressed myself. Having ascertained from my boatman that the water was very deep on the other side, in I jumped, nearly killing myself, and abrading myself terribly. It was about nine inches deep! I was in despair, and to add to it a number of women and small boys congregated on the shore and jeered at me, eventually throwing stones. I did not know what to do-it was no use lying down and trying to burrow a retreat in the bed of the river. On the whole, it was not a satisfactory bathe; and the Meuse don't taste nice.

I didn't see much on my road back to the hotel (I forget its name!) and I was not at all sorry to find myself at the table-d'hôte, not that the table-d'hôte was good-far from it. We had first soup, then a greasy kind of fish, rather like Mediterranean "loup," greasy entrées, &c., and an uncommonly bad vin ordinaire, which I never wish to taste again. And as if the dinner was not a sufficient trial, I was set down next a young Miss with reddish arms and hands, who appeared to be finishing her education previous to appearing at country balls! I remember a Canadian friend of mine at Dieppe who used to bribe the waiter to give him a place next the best-looking individual in the room, which this one wasn't. Granville was worse off. He was opposite to me, next to a governessa tall gaunt woman, with a long neck. I read some where the other day that giraffes got their long necks from browsing where the trees were uncommonly tall. I wonder whether that governess got hers from browsing (her trees must have been very

high), and whether she would transmit the neck or not.

"Jeune mees," said I, "vous connoissez Namur?"

She reddened, dropped a mouthful of chicken, and replied, "Monsieur, je vous remercie, c'est bien la première fois que je me trouve à Namur."

Chère enfant! I recognised the influence of the tall neck opposite. "Et ça vous interesse.' "Oh, oui, monsieur."

66

Change places with me, my dear," said her mother, who was becoming alarmed at the degree of intimacy which appeared to be beginning to exist between us. I believe that I bear unmistakable signs about the face of being a French younger son-that is to say, if there are any. They changed places, and I found myself next to the mother. The mother was a marvellous production a brown silk dress which creaked like my boots, a long gold chain, and a brooch with a picture of a "relative in it. It was a wonderful profile. A dog might have been made to bite it easily out of a biscuit. (I wonder whether that dog really did bite Voltaire's face out of biscuits.) She looked me all over, as if I had been a piece of china, with a crack somewhere about me, which would lower my price. At last she said, "You are English?" "Yes," I said, “I am. I find I am mistaken. I thought you were Parisienne."

"You know Mr Smith?"
"Ah, yes."

He

"You have heard of him? is my husband, and was mayor of Birmingham last year."

"Everybody knows the name," I said.

She looked much pleased, and continued, "We come over every year to see after orders. My husband is the greatest manufacturer of manure in the country, and I am sure he would be very happy to take you over the works."

This was an opportunity not to

be lost! Unfortunately, however, at that moment I tumbled a glass of vin ordinaire over her dress. It had the oddest effect, and I laughed for a quarter of an hour!

The governess had been confiding in G.; and he told me that he had been obliged to tell her that he had a wife and five little children, to stop the confidences.

66 At any rate," I said to Granville, as I read this over to him in the evening, you will allow that I have changed my style."

66

66 There is no doubt about it," he answered; "but it won't do." 66 Why not? It is very natural and free."

"Very much so; and if you were in the Rocky Mountains or Himalayas, there could be no objection to it. The smallest details might interest people. Besides that, it gives a completely wrong notion of your character. This looks as if it was written by somebody who was very energetic and lively, and going to be married; not by a man with a shy and sensitive character like yours."

I began to despair. "I am going into the Ardennes to-morrow," I said. "Will you come?

"Thanks!" said Granville. "I think I shall stay quiet, and trust to your account for information."

"All right!" said I, as he left

the room, which room I proceeded to investigate before going to bed. Fleas don't bite Granville. I can't tell why; for I should certainly bite him if I was a flea. I am a connoisseur in fleas, and can easily tell from a glance the country, previous habits, and course of feeding of a specimen. It would be a great thing if fleas walked. Then one might meet forty of them walking upstairs, as Professor Tiffin did the bugs. I wonder whether Lord

has seen a bug yet. If

he hasn't seen a flea, I should like him to come to Namur. I never saw a larger one than the one who was kind enough to give me his company that evening. It was a most exciting chase-five times round the room; and I broke my legs perpetually over the things I had knocked over in my excitement. At last I took to throwing my boots at it; but somehow or other I never could manage to hit it. Then I threw my jug of water at it, but that only brought out an old German next door, who, when he learnt the cause of the disturbance, said to me, "Bah, monsieur! j'en ai vingt mille, et je ne m'en soucie guère." It was all right; for he had vingt mille et un when he left my room; and I danced an Io triumphe till sleep overtook me ! ! !

I started very early in the morning, and put into my bag two flannel petticoats, three pairs of stockings, and a few other necessaries. I should recommend the traveller who might have any wish to travel in this part of the country to do the same. Flannel is perhaps the best thing that can be worn, especially in case of violent perspiration. I first went up the Meuse in a very small steamer. It was smaller than any I had ever been

in, and ran into the bank several times, owing to its inability to cope with the strength of the stream, which is very considerable in parts. The banks of the Meuse are not remarkable as far as Dinan; and I should not advise any one to go up the Meuse, as the mode of travelling is a very slow one.

On arriving at Dinan, I ordered some luncheon, telling them that I was an Englishman, and was not going to be cheated. I had a very

I sent immediately for the landlord, and asked him to explain this. I had had but a demi-portion of soup. I had occupied the room in question for only half-an-hour; and what could be the meaning of the last item? The landlord said I had spilt the vin ordinaire over the carpet. I was quite certain that what he complained of was caused by a large dog which I had seen wandering about. In consequence I refused to pay, and tendered him four francs, protesting that that was an overcharge. I added that I should write to the 'Times' and to the editor of 'Murray,' and that the consequences would probably give him a lesson he would not forget. I ultimately paid 3 francs 75 centimes, and set off for Ciney in a fiacre with one horse. They told me that one horse could not drag it up the hills; but being well accustomed to the impositions practised upon travellers, I insisted upon having only one. I had been previously all over Dinan, in order to find a donkey to carry me, but apparently there was none. The fiacre was very hard, but by putting one of my flannel petticoats underneath the seat, it became a little more comfortable, although the jolting was somewhat painful. I think they must have put the worst horse they had in the stables into harness, for we could hardly get up the hills. I was at last obliged to get out and walk up the last one; and as I had outstripped the carriage by some distance, I felt somewhat lonely and unprotected on reaching the top of the hill. To add to my fears, a heavily-built peasant appeared, and, coming up to

me, would no doubt have attacked me, unless I had had the presence of mind to run my parasol into his face with all my force. This fortunately disconcerted him to such an extent that he ran into a neighbouring wood, and I did not see him again. I should recommend this course to any one under similar circumstances.

I reached Ciney at last, where I had to wait some time for the train. I heard, however, a very interesting account of "our Lady of Ciney," who a short time before had appeared to three boys and four little girls while wandering in the neighbouring woods, and, having warned them against the approach of a wolf, vanished. Having taken my ticket to Jemelles, the station for Rochefort, I got into the train, and, by mistake, into a firstclass carriage, which I had not intended to do. I generally travel second-class, and, if possible, thirdclass, as fortunately on the Continent no such prejudice exists as in England. On my arrival at Jemelles the conductor at first insisted on my paying the difference, but upon my refusing, finally let the matter alone, relieving his mind apparently by a volley of abuse, which fell harmlessly enough on me, as I am well accustomed to it. I asked how far Rochefort was, and on learning it was only three miles, I set off to walk. The road was very pretty through an avenue of elms, and I did not at all regret my decision, especially as I should have had to pay at least half a franc for the omnibus; and I say it without any shame, to one who is as poor as myself, that sum is quite enough to determine the course to be pursued. Alas, poverty! how great are thy crimes, especially in England, where £2000 a-year seems to be the smallest sum upon which human beings can exist. Rochefort was a bright little village, with the remains of a castle upon a hillock, near the main street; and I was fortunate enough to find

a clean-looking inn, whose pretensions seemed, however, humble. Madame Souza was my hostess, and I am glad to be able to publish the name of one who treated me with such civility (and it will not be in vain that I have mentioned her, if the public looks upon my efforts with indulgence). "Monsieur mangera quelque chose? un poulet, n'est-ce pas"Ah," said I, "mais je suis pauvre, et ça me coûtera chèr."

"Ah, c'est une bagatelle," and I heard the last flappings of the chicken in a moment. After I had ordered dinner, I bargained for a guide to go with me to the cavern of Hans-sur-Lesse, which had really attracted me to this part of the country. I soon got one for five sous, and we set off upon our walk. I had not gone far before I saw an interesting specimen of the convolvulus muddiensis, and I immediately scrambled after it. Unfortunately, however, I tumbled in trying to cross the stream, and came out very wet and dirty. The guide began to laugh, so I said to him, "Voyez-vous c'est la sciencesi j'étais riche je m'en fierais aux autres; mais vu que je suis au contraire pauvre, que voulez-vous, faut que je fasse moi-même ce que je souhaite." He did not seem to understand me at all, and he only winked at some other boys who were passing. I cannot help remarking here upon the rudeness of the Belgians. No doubt there are some amongst them who are very different, but still the majority seem to think that respect is to be paid according to the amount of outward respectability. We soon reached the entrance to the cavern of Hans-sur-Lesse, where I had to wait for some time before the requisite number of people could be got together to form a party. As it was, we had only three peasants with us. I never saw anything so picturesque. The entrance was very narrow-a mere hole in the rock, where the stream had forced

its way, reminding me of the end of the Inferno' (in fact the whole grotto recalled scene after scene from it to me)

"Un ruscelletto, che quivi descende Per la buca d'un sasso, ch'egli ha roso Col corso ch'egli avvolge."

For some time we wound along its banks, sometimes crossing it by a little bridge, and getting deeper and deeper into the heart of the hill. The different caverns into which we came were called by separate names, generally the result of some peculiar formation in the stalagmites around us. The great drawback was the difficulty of lighting it up at all adequately. In the largest cavern, where the river is finest, a few wisps of straw gave us a momentary impression of its grandeur; but the air was so close by this time, as we had been an hour walking, that my chief object was to get out again. In this cavern there was an array of champagne bottles, and it was with some difficulty that I prevented any from being opened: by, however, stating several times, " Moi je ne paye point," I succeeded. Half an hour's more walking brought us to the exit, which was even more striking than the entrance. We came to a place where the stream widened into a sort of deep pond, not unlike the inside of the blue grotto at Capri, and here a boat was waiting for us. It was quite dark, with the exception of the flickering torches we held in our hands, and I felt completely in the hands of some Charon, to whom I owed passive obedience. We glided noiselessly along, until at last we emerged into the daylight upon the other side of the hill; and I felt very glad that I had not believed the statement in Bradshaw, and been deterred, consequently, from paying a visit to Hans-sur-Lesse. When we landed, the man who had been with us said to me,

66

Cinq francs, monsieur."

I answered, Impossible! deux francs ;" and I asked my compan

ions how much they were going to pay, as I suspected that it was intended I should pay for all four of

us.

66 Ah, monsieur, nous sommes pauvres-nous n'avons de quoi."

"Et moi aussi," I replied. "Je vais écrire un livre, et si vous ne voulez pas marchander, vous y verrez comment je me vengerai des Belges."

"Ah, je ne m'en soucie de votre livre; donnez-moi mes cinq francs, et vous pourriez en médire à votre gré."

I was finally obliged to give him what he asked, as there was nobody to whom I could appeal, so my only means of redress consists in performing my promise to him. We walked back again to Rochefort, where I found my dinner awaiting my arrival, and Madame Souza's efforts, I must own, had been attended with complete success. I was not overcharged, a circumstance which I feel bound to narrate, having only to pay a franc and a half for my dinner. Afterwards I walked back to Jemelles, catching the afternoon train to Namur, and returned very well satisfied with my day's excursion. I found Granville smoking. He, of course, had

been nowhere, and had seen nothing, having even dined apart to escape our table-d'hôte friends of the preceding day. He endeavoured, neverthelesss, to take some interest in my proceedings, and I read my account to him in the evening, with the view of impressing upon his mind the beauties of the Ardennes. He interrupted me at the beginning, saying, "Why, you are not an old woman; what do you mean by flannel petticoats?" I said I meant flannel shirts. Granville justly remarked that they were not the same things; but he recommended me to leave it as it was, as I seemed to have metamorphosed myself into a fussy woman for the occasion, and that it was quite in keeping with the rest. I regret to be obliged to add that Granville gave me no opportunity of cavilling at his criticism, for before I had finished I found that he was fast asleep.

This was my fourth failure, which I could only ascribe to the superficial manner in which I had treated my subject, so I resolved that my next attempt, at any rate, should give Granville no cause of complaint in this respect.

(To be continued.)